Illuminator

Hey everybody, I just left the shop with my chevy silverado and they tell me both front wheel bearings need replaced. They wanted like $1,600, so it looks like I get to learn how to change them myself. So here's the question does anybody know how to change these? I'm thinking the only special tools I'll need is a big socket of the right size (not sure on size yet) and a large torque wrench which I should alreay have(130ft lbs). Thanks for any help with this one, it's my work truck so it can't be down long.

GMTURBO

I've never done a Silverado but recently did the wheel bearings on my Trailblazer SS AWD so I'd imagine it close to the same. 36 or 38mm socket and a BFH. My first one took me 2 hours start to finish. After removing it, putting the old one back on, pulling the old one off again and installing another one...I got it down to 30 minutes with air tools. Of course that's with it fresh in my head and bolts weren't gunked up.

I'd strongly recommend spending the extra coin and getting Timken bearings. I've used both AutoZone and CarQuest house brands only to have Stabilitrack issues. Installed the Timken FTW. Rock Auto has the best price.

Illuminator

Thanks for the info, gonna try to knock it out this weekend. Trailblazer ss, sounds nice!

GMTURBO

It really isn't too bad of a job. Once you're in there it starts to make sense. Some of the clips for the wheel speed sensor were a pain to get out. Figure $400 bucks for both wheel bearings, a socket and a 6-pack is cheaper than paying the dealer.

The SS is the wife's ride.

Illuminator

Thanks for the encouragement. Looking forward to being done with it.

bmxkid415

Wheel bearings on a C or K truck are pretty simple. As stated from others, The worst part is the clips that brake off in the upper control arms. They are just plastic and a straight pick or a drill bit will get them out. Other wise its nothing to fear. In order to make it easier on yourself (if its 4WD) push the CV shaft through first (wont come out of the hub) but will give you room in order to get the top bolt out of the hub.

Illuminator

Thanks for the reply, it's a 2 wheel drive so perhaps less complicated than a four wheel drive. I read in my chiltons manual that the caliber mounting bracket bolts are to be torqued to 221ft-lb. That's alot of torque I'm a little concerned about getting that much torque on them.

jeep bandit

I did one a few weeks ago on my brothers zr2 blazer. It wasn't too bad. 2 wheel drive will probably be easier.

Illuminator

Thanks, I'm hoping it goes smoothly, planning to fix it tomorrow, parts coming in the morning.

White92

Are they press-in? If they are press in make SURE that the guy pressing them into the hub isn't a redkneck dumbass.. i had to do a wheel bearing on my girlfriends contour and the idiot broke 3 bearing trying to press it into the hub... i told him to **** off went to another place and they got it right the FIRST time. I also recommend the timken bearings.. very high quality. Another good choice is national seal. Don't buy some duracrap bearings.. unless you like replacing them every month.

96_xj

1) timken as stated

2) it is easy if you take your time

3) a 45-250 ft. lb. torque wrench will be your friend. best thing I ever bought with 6 pay checks! (snap-on tools)

Illuminator

Thanks to all who replied, put on the new wheel bearings today. Noise is gone. It wasn't really a hard job, went pretty easy.

GMTURBO

Good stuff. Like I said, it all kinda makes sense once you're in there. I'm sure the 2WD made it a bit easier.

96_xj

looks good. what do you have for a "dud stub" on the 2wd model.

because that is a 4wd wheel bearing (notice it is splined) just curious if it is like the jeep dud stubs

Illuminator

I believe they fit both 2 and 4 wheel drive, so they can make one part thats more universal, thus saving them money.