stephenlwcaki

OK, I finally got my son's vehicle back from the towing guys who replaced the front differential. She made it all the way back from Winchester, VA to Norfolk, VA without too many issues.

As a reminder, this is a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 6cyl 4.0 without tow package. Aftermarket one was added though. Front differential and axle assemblies are U-joint style vice CV joint.

Now, here is the issue. She makes a loud screeching sound at low speeds, below 5mph. When the wheel is turned hard left or right, it feels like I am driving on tires that are ovals not round and only on the right side. Tires are brand new and the right front hub assembly was replaced with a new one today as the bearing on the old one was shot.

Any thoughts? Bent axle shaft? Really screwed up alignment??? Could use some help here.

JBimmolate

What size tires are you running? Also could the tires be rubbing the frame due to the steering stops not being adjusted right? Is the screeching sound coming from the power steering pump or belt slipping?

Miles

stephenlwcaki

Tires: 235/175R15

Screeching sounds like metal on metal; I need to double diff fluid levels front and back. I did pull the steering stops, here is what they look like.

As you can see, they look like they are tack welded so there is no adjusting of these suckers. Are they supposed to be welded like this?

Power steering fluid was very low and I there was clearly a steering gear leak. Can these be rebuilt or should I just pull one from Pick and Pull? I am getting ready to re-seal my Mercedes steering gear box so didn't know if I could do the same here.

All the connections to the tie rods, suspension arms, damper, torsion bar etc. are solid, I did a thorough inspection and checked play, there is none. The only thing I can think of is alignment or bent axle. I haven't pulled the axle for inspection yet.

dave1123

No, the steering stops are not supposed to be welded. Why it was done is a mystery, unless it was for larger tires, and even then it doesn't make sense.

The 235's are not over-large for your vehicle. If this is AWD, your viscous coupling may be damaged causing your tire hop and squealing sound. With u-joint axles, it's not unusual to get tire hop and binding when at full lock in 4WD. The viscous coupling is supposed to take care of this.

Why did you replace only one front hub? Did you think the other one was any less worn? Was cost an issue, because if it was, you'll be doing the other one soon. JMHO.

Of course the steering box can be rebuilt, however finding the parts can be a problem. Years ago, we rebuilt EVERYTHING. Now everything is replaced and the rebuilding is done by shops that specialize in the part. Most of these shops won't even sell you the parts.

stephenlwcaki

I kinda thought that they were not supposed to be welded. Now, where the heck do I get new ones?

I only replaced one hub because of cost; my son has to reimburse me and he ain't rich.

I'll see if there are any connections loose on the steering box before I consider rebuilding it or getting one from the salvage yard. There is a 94 Laredo here in VA beach that I can probably pull it out of.

I will do some more research on the viscous coupling; how big of a job is this? I checked fluids for both difs this afternoon as well. Front fluid is new and at the right level as is expected since it was recently rebiult. The rear however was black as coal and THICK! Drained that dif and cleaned up the mating surfaces as the PO had just used RTV for a gasket. That is back together but I need to add fluid and get a new fill plug cap as the one on it is toast.

I'm done for today, I will work some more on it tomorrow and continue to troubleshoot. Joy. If my son were here I'd kick him in the *** for not checking on what I told him to check before he left! It pisses me off even more knowing that he is a trained mechanic!

dave1123

I went to my dealership's parts dept and asked for a diff cover gasket. The counter guy came back with a tube if Blue RTV. The only way I could get a gasket was if I bought a cover! I used my own RTV and it hasn't leaked in over a year. If you need a new rubber plug, most oil change places have them.

The viscous coupling is expensive and a nightmare to replace. You have to split the t/case. Some guys have opted for replacing the whole t/case for the 242. That's the one that gives you the 2WD option and has few problems.

The one thing the jeeps with tow packages have that you don't is an aux trans cooler. If you plan on towing, you should invest in one, being a JY or new.

Oh, and I believe the quote is "Weebles wobble but they don't fall down."

stephenlwcaki

I was afraid you were gonna say that. I did some checking, yep, ain't cheap. I also found some good info to confirm or deny the problem and everything mentioned points squarely to a bad VC.

I also did some research on the swap and found a very good write up on how to do it but it didn't cover the transfer case mechanism. I am assuming that I will have to get a new one that provides the option of 2H, 4L and 4H correct? I figure I've rebuilt 901 Porsche Gearboxes, I can do the transfer case swap.

As far as the quote, you're old! Only us old guys remember that marketing slogan! I like misquoting things, keeps people on their toes!

stephenlwcaki

OK, so I researched and read several articles. Based on what I read, to switch the 249 to a 242 I need to look for a TC that is 92 - 94 or, can I use one that is newer than 94?

The one write up didn't mention anything other than, "mid 1994 all NP cases input/sun/annulus gears were changed..."

dave1123

Yeah, I'm 69 years young!

On the t/case, you're going to talk to more informed people that this one. Also remember to steal the shifter out of the donor vehicle. I know some people have gone to the trouble to change the input shaft and rear output shaft or gone with different driveshafts. What exactly is involved I'm clueless. I think the main factor is what transmission you have.

stephenlwcaki

OK, you got me by a at least 20 years! I talked to the dealership about the wheel stops...retards. The parts guy basically told me that he couldn't help me because the assembly would be different from the car based on the VIN. OK, guess I'll just go and get some grade 8 bolts with the proper thread pitch to match what is in there now.

I have been reading through a lot of transfer case swap write ups and FAQs and what is clearly apparent is that I first need to know what year T-Case I have before I can determine what will work for this swap. I will crawl under her today and get that info as well as finish cleaning out the rear diff, re-seal and add fluid. Then, I plan on taking her to get the wheels aligned so I can make absolutely sure that this is not the issue. I don't think it is but I don't want to take the time and effort to fix what does not need fixing and it does need it.

I also need to check to make sure that he doesn't have any loose lines for the steering gear before I order a rebuild kit. I have no issue rebuilding it but again, if it is just a loose line then I don't need to rebuild it. More to follow as I trudge down this road. It is taking time away from my Porsche motor rebuild as well as my steering gearbox rebuild on my Mercedes! The things we do for our kids

dave1123

I think you'll be good with grade 8 bolts.

Kids change your entire reason for living. That's the way it's supposed to be. I've seen way too many marriages break up after the first kid because the parents can't handle the responsibility. They shouldn't be parents, but I feel sorry for the kids.

My Grandad said "Grandchildren are great. You get to wind them up, them they go home!" Sadistic bastard!

stephenlwcaki

So, I was thinking, 'a dangerous past time I know,' can we disable the 4WD option entirely by removing the shafts and, would removing the VC get rid of the screeching noise?

I remember asking this question before when the front diff went bad and the answer was that it would damage the VC. Well, if the VC is already toast, how do I get her into 2WD only as a solution?

My reasoning is that the boy currently lives in Midland, TX. He doesn't need 4WD where he is at and, when the time comes, he can do the swap for a 242 himself if needed. I am looking for alternatives to save him money. Any thoughts on this?

Bonus points for whoever figures out what movie the opening line in quotes is from.

stephenlwcaki

OK, so I found a 231 case and, from the looks of my son's case tag, he has an older model 94 case. So, based on the two tags below, will these work for a swap?

Current Case


231 Case

The 231 is out of a 92 Jeep Cherokee.

Also located two 1993 Laredos at pick and pull with intact transfer cases; is there a way to determine if the VCs are good if I pull them from their respective cases?

dave1123

You know, I'm going to refer you to someone who knows a lot more about this t/case that I do. Send a Private Message to Bustedback. I remember he once recommended this case to someone so I'll bet he knows if it will fit your jeep.

The only problem is (I think) the 4WD range is partime, as in a direct lock-up between the axles that should only be used in slippery conditions. I really don't know.

As far as driving it with the front shaft removed, I think if the viscous clutch is already toast, what harm can it do?

stephenlwcaki

OK, went to pick and pull this morning to pull the 231 case. I ask the guy, what do you have that I can use since you won't let me bring my jack to support the transmission? His reply, 'your just gonna have to manhandle it.'

Really? This guy is evidently a complete moron. OK, I'm an Army dude, I'm used to improvising, lets get this done.

So, here my two gratuitous pictures of how I supported the transmission.




As you can see, got innovative. As the cross member support came off the tranny fell onto the stack of stuff. I then had to do a one arm bench press of the T-case and tranny and pull the wood out to lower it more. Finally, I had to create a lever using the 2x4 I just took out to lower it down onto just the rim so I could get that damn top bolt off! For that, I enlisted the help of a guy to push the lever down while I pulled the brake drum off the rim and he lowered it down to the rim.

I'll clean up the new case this week and pull her apart to inspect the innards; I don't think I'll get to the swap until the weekend after next though. I need to rebuild my Mercedes steering gear and order the seals for the T-case before I start on this again.