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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 06:47 PM
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From: Athens, Alabama
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Default Transfer case

I was just wondering what would be the best transfer case to put into my wj with quadra trac II. Any suggestions would be great because I dont know where to start
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Old Jan 4, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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By ''put in'' i mean replace. I think mines about dead.
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:15 PM
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by wj99
I was just wondering what would be the best transfer case to put into my wj with quadra trac II. Any suggestions would be great because I dont know where to start
What motor do you have, Another 249 is the easiest and strongest but no 2 WD and expensive parts to replace, the right 242 will bolt right in and is nice with 2 wheel drive option, a 231 requires more work but is stronger than a 242, and heck if you want the best something down the lines of an ATLAS is a good start but over $2K.

What are you plans with the Jeep?, Rock Crawling, leaving it stock, running 35's, Daily Driver, etc, and what motor is in it.

Bryan
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Old Jan 5, 2012 | 09:47 PM
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I have the 4.7 and im hoping to get up to 35s one day but that will be later on in the year. And I wont be driving it everyday but atleast once or twice a week.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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From: Tallahassee, FL
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Originally Posted by wj99
I have the 4.7 and im hoping to get up to 35s one day but that will be later on in the year. And I wont be driving it everyday but atleast once or twice a week.
I plan on running 35's on my WJ, Personally I am looking at using a NP231 because they are strong, cheap, real common, have more aftermarket support, and you can put a SYE "Slip Yoke Eliminator" on easily, A SYE will allow for a longer rear drive shaft which is good when you are lifted, as well as instead of the driveshaft sliding into the the transfercase it connects with a U-Joint which is good if you blow your driveshaft because you can drive without it (using the front axle) and not worry about dumping all your transfercase fluid. Now you can make a SYE for the NV242 but I they are expensive or you need to do a "Hack and Tap" which I personally don't like.

Now with all that said, eventually I would like to get a Atlas or similar after market transfercase, but again those run $2K plus.

These are my opinions from what I have READ and having a NV231 with 35's before on my TJ, I am sure other opinions may differ.

Things like "Rock Climbing" will require much lower gearing in your transfercase, as well as its a lot harder on it, so in that case a NV231 may not be your best choice.

Like anything on the internet I suggest you research, research, research, use multiple opinions and make your decision BASED ON THE FACTS, you may end up finding some option you never thought of.....or may decide a Rubicon Transfer case would be AWESOME but at $2K is out of your price range, then all of sudden one shows up on Craigslist at $500..... It just helps to be prepared.

Example, I have been considering installing a Small Block Chevy, even looking at an LS1 (I know I will have to cut/plate my Unibody Frame to fit it) and today a buddy wrecked his Chevy Pickup with an LS1 in it, I immediately asked him to see if I can buy it from the insurance company.... I will then have just about everything I need to install it and being a truck the oil pan and sump will work. I also just read where on a NV249 that the viscous coupling (the part I said gets expensive) was going out and someone welded it (like they do on a rear axle) and he said it drove great, and the NV249 has a bigger chain in it - Plus I have an old NV249 in the garage so what do I have to risk.... ME I like to think out of the box, try things different, and although I will be daily driving my WJ I have options if things go wrong and its laid up in the garage a week or two - others don't and then sticking the typical makes more sense.

Bryan

Last edited by bryweb; Jan 6, 2012 at 01:38 PM.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bryweb

I plan on running 35's on my WJ, Personally I am looking at using a NP231 because they are strong, cheap, real common, have more aftermarket support, and you can put a SYE "Slip Yoke Eliminator" on easily, A SYE will allow for a longer rear drive shaft which is good when you are lifted, as well as instead of the driveshaft sliding into the the transfercase it connects with a U-Joint which is good if you blow your driveshaft because you can drive without it (using the front axle) and not worry about dumping all your transfercase fluid. Now you can make a SYE for the NV242 but I they are expensive or you need to do a "Hack and Tap" which I personally don't like.

Now with all that said, eventually I would like to get a Atlas or similar after market transfercase, but again those run $2K plus.

These are my opinions from what I have READ and having a NV231 with 35's before on my TJ, I am sure other opinions may differ.

Things like "Rock Climbing" will require much lower gearing in your transfercase, as well as its a lot harder on it, so in that case a NV231 may not be your best choice.

Like anything on the internet I suggest you research, research, research, use multiple opinions and make your decision BASED ON THE FACTS, you may end up finding some option you never thought of.....or may decide a Rubicon Transfer case would be AWESOME but at $2K is out of your price range, then all of sudden one shows up on Craigslist at $500..... It just helps to be prepared.

Example, I have been considering installing a Small Block Chevy, even looking at an LS1 (I know I will have to cut/plate my Unibody Frame to fit it) and today a buddy wrecked his Chevy Pickup with an LS1 in it, I immediately asked him to see if I can buy it from the insurance company.... I will then have just about everything I need to install it and being a truck the oil pan and sump will work. I also just read where on a NV249 that the viscous coupling (the part I said gets expensive) was going out and someone welded it (like they do on a rear axle) and he said it drove great, and the NV249 has a bigger chain in it - Plus I have an old NV249 in the garage so what do I have to risk.... ME I like to think out of the box, try things different, and although I will be daily driving my WJ I have options if things go wrong and its laid up in the garage a week or two - others don't and then sticking the typical makes more sense.

Bryan
Thanks, that helps me alot. Ill probably go with a 231, but like you said I'm going to do a good bit of research.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:06 PM
  #7  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by wj99
Thanks, that helps me alot. Ill probably go with a 231, but like you said I'm going to do a good bit of research.
Keep in mind with a NV231 you will need to either modify a longer driveshaft to fit or buy a new driveshaft, if you get a NV242 it is bolt in if you get the right one (there is a couple different ones) and you can use the same driveshaft.

But when you go 35" tires with 6" Lift you will probably be ready for a new driveshaft anyways, but if your transfercase is going out you may not want to add the expense right now to do driveshafts, the WJ uses a C/V joint on most models either at one end or both which SUCK when lifted and it is suggested to switch to a U-Joint style, and when you are lifted you should consider a Double Cardan Driveshaft, here are some pictures of what I am talking about - http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...egory_Code=SYE

Also when you replace these you need to replace the Yolks (the part the ujoint attaches to) on the axle and the transfercase - Its the whole DOMINO PROBLEM, one thing leads to another..... crawl under you jeep and see where you have the C/V joint so you know what to prepare for !!!!!!!!

Used Transfer case $75 - $200 BUT !!!!!!

(3) yokes at $60 a piece and (2) Driveshafts at $350 a piece ($880 total) it can add a lot of hurt to your plans (I am cheap so I would have two used driveshafts modified)

Again, RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH, much of the prices and things I am saying are from memory from my research..... not the holy grail of what is what !!! (-:

Bryan
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