Hello all
I have a 97 GC with a 6cyl and my mechanic tells me I need the sway bar bushings replaced.I am 25 years a mechanic on power boats. can this be done with out to much trouble with out a lift and do you need any special tools to do the job?
Don't twist wrenched any more and am in drive way mechanic hell.
Thank you for your help.

 

should be able to do it in your drive without a jack or anything

 

Did mine on my xj with basic tools. I don't know how tight it will be on grand but its about the same difficulty as changing shocks, so pretty easy.

 

If you have the money I would buy a full poly bushing kit for around 100 and change all the ones you think you can.

TylerL. 94 ZJ 3" lift. My DD.

 

why do you need to replace the bushings? seems like as long as the bar is attached it will get the job done

 

Thanks for the replies.They need to be replaced fir PA state inspection.Money grabber and I am certified to do it.
I will defiantly take shot at it.Thanks every one.

 

I changed the bushings on my 97 xj in 45 mins with basic sockets and these bushes cost £25 . I guess you could leave them but the xj wouldn't pass a test if there was any play on the bar.

 

wow that must be anoying, where i live we dont have "inspections" or "test" we just pay the the tax and get it insured

 

That's the beauty of living in a commonwealth....

 

The sway bar uses torsion to keep the body aligned to the axles, reducing the amount of sag you have going over bumps and around turns. If there were no rubber/silicone/poly bushings, and was just bolted to the axle the stabilizing would be noticeably stiffer, jouncy, and would most likely be a lot of creaking. Also, Corrosion resistance. It appears the sway bar is steel and the bolt for the links are something else. It immediately improves ride.

I installed aftermarket red silicone rear stabilizer bushings in about 20 minutes and it tightened the truck up quite a bit. The original link bolt rusted through the axle which I hear is very common. I added two washers to add to the attachment surface area, and went with the 2-3/4" set. $15 at AutoZone.

I recommend doing this on a level surface, because if the body is sagging to one side it will compound the difficulty of getting both links on. I also recommend using a lot of PB Blaster and letting it sit in while you have a cold one, Vise Grips for holding the bolt, and a ratchet with a cheater pipe (ive got Snap-On) to break it free.