Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here! ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!

Sticky doors

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-13-2017, 04:52 AM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
grandsliverback96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Question Sticky doors

hello,
has any here had a zj that the front doors latch mechanism only half way engages in temperatures between 40° F and 0° F ? Below zero i have to hold it closes. Some of the times on ice and some times at 75+ MPH. Until the heater warms the latch mechanism usually takes about 15 miles.

If you have had a similar experience i Would like to know how you fixed it? I have sprayed everything from [W]ater [D]isplacment 40 to light amounts of silicone grease. No luck no inprovment.

In addition if the doors are locked between 40° F and 0° F as i leave the vehicle only the closes half way or one click, but if the door is unlock it will completely shut?

Thanks for your time and knowledge, Jon

Last edited by grandsliverback96; 10-13-2017 at 05:17 AM. Reason: Information left out by mistake
Old 10-13-2017, 08:01 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
wingless's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 818
Received 34 Likes on 29 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L Magnum V8 220hp 285ft-lbs
Default

Why not remove the latch for a complete bench cleaning and lubrication? There is limited access while mounted.

Or, just move somewhere warm that doesn't see those temperatures.
Old 10-13-2017, 09:09 AM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
grandsliverback96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

Originally Posted by wingless
Why not remove the latch for a complete bench cleaning and lubrication? There is limited access while mounted.

Or, just move somewhere warm that doesn't see those temperatures.
Thanks for your reply wingless. I was saving that as a last resort. I would move but i have 5 generations with in a hour drive.
Old 10-13-2017, 01:06 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
wingless's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 818
Received 34 Likes on 29 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L Magnum V8 220hp 285ft-lbs
Default

The latch mechanism looks "easy" to remove, w/ two quick connect rods to disconnect, an electrical connector to disconnect and some screws to remove, after removing the door card.



Old 10-13-2017, 02:11 PM
  #5  
Old fart with a wrench
 
dave1123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Posts: 14,398
Received 723 Likes on 628 Posts
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Default

Inside the latch mechanism, there is a cam that has a slot in it that rotates to grab the doorjam latchpin. When it rotates fully, there is a catch pawl that holds it latched. This pawl is free-floating with a small spring behind it. The release linkage unlocks this pawl and allows the cam to rotate opening the door. Either the pawl is sticky or the release link is interfering with it latching. A complete bench cleaning and lubrication is required. On my WJ, the latches are made of nylon, but the linkage is plain steel and rusts around the pivot rivits. Rust takes up space and the linkage refuses to work after that. After you get them working, mark and drill an 1/8" hole in the door edge even with the linkage pivots and spray some grease on the pivots every oil change. I bought a can of spray grease with a plastic tube on it like WD40 has. I cover the holes with electrical tape to keep water out. My rear door latches were so rusted I had to get junkyard ones and clean them!
Old 10-17-2017, 04:57 AM
  #6  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
grandsliverback96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

Originally Posted by wingless
The latch mechanism looks "easy" to remove, w/ two quick connect rods to disconnect, an electrical connector to disconnect and some screws to remove, after removing the door card.



That dose make it look easier then i was thinking. Thanks for your help.
Old 10-17-2017, 05:01 AM
  #7  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
grandsliverback96's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

Originally Posted by dave1123
Inside the latch mechanism, there is a cam that has a slot in it that rotates to grab the doorjam latchpin. When it rotates fully, there is a catch pawl that holds it latched. This pawl is free-floating with a small spring behind it. The release linkage unlocks this pawl and allows the cam to rotate opening the door. Either the pawl is sticky or the release link is interfering with it latching. A complete bench cleaning and lubrication is required. On my WJ, the latches are made of nylon, but the linkage is plain steel and rusts around the pivot rivits. Rust takes up space and the linkage refuses to work after that. After you get them working, mark and drill an 1/8" hole in the door edge even with the linkage pivots and spray some grease on the pivots every oil change. I bought a can of spray grease with a plastic tube on it like WD40 has. I cover the holes with electrical tape to keep water out. My rear door latches were so rusted I had to get junkyard ones and clean them!
Thanks Dave! I will get started as soon as i get this done

Current project


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:00 PM.