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Small settlement check = JEEP PARTS. Help....

Old 10-05-2016, 07:12 AM
  #1  
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 5.9L 360 ci
Default Small settlement check = JEEP PARTS. Help....

Im on a budget, but im fixing/correcting a lot of things, so please recommend based on your experiences.

98 Grand.
5.2l V8
225k miles

Should I just get an OEM radiator? I dont do much crawling. A 2" isnt necessary.

Im having a starting issue. Cold starts, the first time I prime the fuel pump(key in run position), turn to start, and it just cranks and cranks.

Remove key. Prime the fuel pump again. Turn to start. Fires up and runs just fine. For a the first few seconds theres a high idle burning the extra fuel from the failed first attempt.

Warm engine. No issues.

My starter is new. Im thinking its a bad fuel pump but i know the knowledge on here is 10 times what i know. Maybe its a bad solenoid? Spark? Sending unit? Idk. Help me out.

Best practices, should i just replace the fuel pump, filter and injectors? Recommendations on brand? Or should i try to clean the injectors? I know that process is beat to death, so i can find the steps via searching.

Last night I was checking a sound, couldnt determine the cause, likely a heat shield on the headers, but i did notice a lot of noise inside the oil pan. I havent dropped the pan since i bought the Heep, but it leaks, so im getting a steel gasket, recommendation? Should I clean or replace oil pickup tube/filter?

Dif cover gaskets? Reusable steel gaskets?
D35 front
D44a rear
I'll get some strengthened dif covers next year.

I need a complete factory intake setup because the previous owner put some cheap cold air intake kit and 1" throttle body spacer(FORSALE), plans to add a snorkel soon. Should i just pull from the junkyard?

My ball joints are shot. I still havent mounted my 33s. 3" budget boost.
Recommend ball joints please. Straight HD?
Offset?

Sway bar discos? Which is your favorite?

Thanks everyone!
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Old 10-05-2016, 09:32 AM
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well, you certainly have your list to go through. for the fuel issue I would start with the basics and check fuel pressure and bleed off, and possibly change out the fuel filter as normal maintenance. it would not hurt to clean your injectors so if you have the time why not. at least you are eliminating that as a possible issue.


I don't have any experience with the steel gaskets. for my 4.0 I like the felpro because of the alignment/mounting guides. those can be a true pain to install without the guides. Dave had a good idea on using thread to hold the gasket in place to the pan during install and then cut the thread once the bolt is in place.


intake -I would go to the JY. its cheap (outside of Kalifornia anyway).


ball joints - I don't have any experience in changing those out and don't have a recommendation. I would think most any would work as long as they are new. I sometimes pick up new off brand stuff from ebay cheaper than at the auto parts store but that is personal preference.
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Old 10-05-2016, 05:37 PM
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Just use good quality ball joints. I like Moog myself. You don't need offset ball joints unless you have a caster problem with extreme lifts.

On your cold starting problem, try priming twice; that is turn the key on once, then off, then turn it on again and start cranking. You're probably experiencing drainback caused by a bad checkvalve in the pump, pressure regulator, or leaking injectors.

I buy most of my stuff from rockauto.com. On 35 orders over 5 years, I only had a problem once with a defective part and that was the manufacturer's fault. Rockauto sent me a replacement part Fedex Next Day and a free return label. What I like about them is you have choices of brands to buy, PLUS they've started selling Mopar parts!
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Old 10-06-2016, 11:51 AM
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I think your mistaken on your front differential being a D35 it is a D30 I think.


You should work on all the running/driving problems before anything else and if your not sure about what is causing a problem (like noise in oil pan) take it to a shop don't just start throwing money at something.


If the seal is leaking on the differential covers pull them inspect the gears then clean the cover and mating surface and use RTV to seal it up.


A 6" lift is quite costly on a Grand and with a 33" tire you will need a gear change also again $$$$$.
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:28 PM
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regearing is about $1,500 in my area, front and rear parts included. the 44a has limited aftermarket parts out there so it may be a bit more but I am not sure.
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:49 PM
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Answers are in blue

Should I just get an OEM radiator? I dont do much crawling. A 2" isnt necessary.

- Get a Spectra Premium replacement from Advance Auto (use their coupon codes too). Replace the t-stat, water pump, radiator cap (if the new rad doesn't include one), and hoses if yours are super old. Consider changing out the drive belt at the same time since it's all apart anyways (Goodyear Gatorback branded belt)

Im having a starting issue. Cold starts, the first time I prime the fuel pump(key in run position), turn to start, and it just cranks and cranks.

Remove key. Prime the fuel pump again. Turn to start. Fires up and runs just fine. For a the first few seconds theres a high idle burning the extra fuel from the failed first attempt.

Warm engine. No issues.

My starter is new. Im thinking its a bad fuel pump but i know the knowledge on here is 10 times what i know. Maybe its a bad solenoid? Spark? Sending unit? Idk. Help me out.

Best practices, should i just replace the fuel pump, filter and injectors? Recommendations on brand? Or should i try to clean the injectors? I know that process is beat to death, so i can find the steps via searching.

- It's likely a bad fuel "check" valve, which keeps pressure in the lines. You can "poor man prime" the system by cycling the key and fuel pump a few times before cranking her over. If it starts easier when you are priming the fuel system, you have a bad check valve. Replaceable on its own, but I would just replace the entire pump since it is all one assembly. Change the fuel filter too, could be clogged causing hard start issues


Last night I was checking a sound, couldnt determine the cause, likely a heat shield on the headers, but i did notice a lot of noise inside the oil pan. I havent dropped the pan since i bought the Heep, but it leaks, so im getting a steel gasket, recommendation? Should I clean or replace oil pickup tube/filter?

- Use Felpro gaskets, never failed me yet. Drop the oil pan and have a look - not going to hurt and you can get a good gasket on there at the same time. Inspect and clean the pickup tube as needed (mine was pretty clean since I run Rotella Diesel oil which has alot of detergents)

Dif cover gaskets? Reusable steel gaskets?
D35 front
D44a rear
I'll get some strengthened dif covers next year.

- I usually just use Permatex blue RTV. My diff's don't leak at all around the edges (only from the stupid fill plug on the Chrysler 8.25)

I need a complete factory intake setup because the previous owner put some cheap cold air intake kit and 1" throttle body spacer(FORSALE), plans to add a snorkel soon. Should i just pull from the junkyard?

- Junkyard or look on Craigslist for people parting out ZJ's. Throw in a Wix paper filter and call it a day. Or just DIY your own snorkel and use an in-line filter like this one and RTV the hell out of the joints to make it 100% waterproof. Saves some room in the enigine bay compared to the stock intake
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131158092815


My ball joints are shot. I still havent mounted my 33s. 3" budget boost.
Recommend ball joints please. Straight HD?
Offset?

Use Dana/Spicer OEM ball joints unless you are going to wheel it hard. If so, use Alloy USA joints

Sway bar discos? Which is your favorite?

JKS quick disco's are the best IMO.

Last edited by investinwaffles; 10-06-2016 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 10-08-2016, 09:59 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by dave1123 View Post
... try priming twice; that is turn the key on once, then off, then turn it on again and start cranking...
I normally cycle the pump before every start. not because I have ever had to. I just always have.

Recently, since this issues has started, if I dont crank on the first fuel prime, then it seems like it doesnt count. Its start just fine on the second crank.

Originally Posted by dave1123 View Post
I buy most of my stuff from rockauto.com. On 35 orders over 5 years, I only had a problem once with a defective part and that was the manufacturer's fault. Rockauto sent me a replacement part Fedex Next Day and a free return label. What I like about them is you have choices of brands to buy, PLUS they've started selling Mopar parts!
I just ordered $700 from Rock auto. Soo excited to be fixing my Heep.


Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ View Post
I think your mistaken on your front differential being a D35 it is a D30 I think.
IDK You could be right. But i just ordered a Rugged Ridge diff cover for a Dana 35. I hope it fits.

Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ View Post
A 6" lift is quite costly on a Grand and with a 33" tire you will need a gear change also again $$$$$.
What 6" lift? Believe me, I have thought a lot about. Even a detailed shopping list of what I need. I hope to do 3Links in a couple years, but for now enjoy it. This is still a daily. How ever, OMG I wish i had a 6" lift!

Originally Posted by investinwaffles View Post
Get a Spectra Premium replacement from Advance Auto (use their coupon codes too). Replace the t-stat, water pump, radiator cap (if the new rad doesn't include one), and hoses if yours are super old. Consider changing out the drive belt at the same time since it's all apart anyways (Goodyear Gatorback branded belt)
I bought an American Made 2 ROW aluminium Radiator

Originally Posted by investinwaffles View Post
It's likely a bad fuel "check" valve, which keeps pressure in the lines. You can "poor man prime" the system by cycling the key and fuel pump a few times before cranking her over. If it starts easier when you are priming the fuel system, you have a bad check valve. Replaceable on its own, but I would just replace the entire pump since it is all one assembly. Change the fuel filter too, could be clogged causing hard start issues
I have always primed the Pump before starting as i said to Daves helpful tips. Thank you both of you, I dont believe most people understand that priming phase of Ignition.


Originally Posted by investinwaffles View Post
Or just DIY your own snorkel and use an in-line filter like this one and RTV the hell out of the joints to make it 100% waterproof. Saves some room in the enigine bay compared to the stock intake
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131158092815
This is a good Idea. Because that factory stock box is huge, and a snorkel is definitely in my future.



Originally Posted by investinwaffles View Post
Use Dana/Spicer OEM ball joints unless you are going to wheel it hard. If so, use Alloy USA joints
I got SPICER.


Originally Posted by investinwaffles View Post
JKS quick disco's are the best IMO.
Thanks. Ill probably get some soon.
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