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Rear axle bearing and wheel seal?

Old Mar 4, 2011 | 12:03 AM
  #1  
Z400Rider's Avatar
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From: New England
Year: 1999 XJ, 2000 WJ
Engine: 4.0 l6
Default Rear axle bearing and wheel seal?

Hello all,

I've got a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with a Dana 35 in the rear. I'm getting plans made to replace my right rear wheel seal next friday. After discussing with a few buddies and some shops, I have picked up a new outer seal, bearing, bearing retainer ring, two quarts 75W-140 as well as a new diff cover since the old one is getting pretty ripe.

Now what brings me here is I have found a couple online sources as well as hearing from a few different local shops and buddies different methods of replacing these parts. I'm wondering what tools I will need, such as a slide hammer and an adapter plate to remove the axle? How about removing bearings, seals and retainer ring? Will I need a press to remove these from the shaft and install the new ones?

Does anyone have any advice as far as the procedure go, maybe some tips?

Thank you!
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 12:33 AM
  #2  
Gorillaxj's Avatar
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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this walks you threw it pretty well.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rea...-removal-6431/

slide hammer to remove race's, press for bearings/retainer. nothings to special really.
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Old Mar 4, 2011 | 06:32 AM
  #3  
tiwvr1's Avatar
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From: Elizabethtown, pa
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
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Hmm, I didnt really like that artical. On yours, since it is a grand, it should have disc breaks, you dont even have to remove the diff cover.

Disassemble the brakes, un bolt the caliper and sit it somewhere out of the way (leave the hose attached). Take the rotor off, sit on the ground. There are 4 nuts on the BACK SIDE of the backing plate, take those 4 nuts off, they are 9/16 I believe (damn mixing of metric and standred) Then u should be able to use a slide hammer and pull the axle right out.

At this point it may be easier for you to take the whole axle to a shop with a press and have them press the new bearing and retainer on.
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 03:04 PM
  #4  
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Red face

Originally Posted by Z400Rider
Hello all,

I've got a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with a Dana 35 in the rear. I'm getting plans made to replace my right rear wheel seal next friday. After discussing with a few buddies and some shops, I have picked up a new outer seal, bearing, bearing retainer ring, two quarts 75W-140 as well as a new diff cover since the old one is getting pretty ripe.

Now what brings me here is I have found a couple online sources as well as hearing from a few different local shops and buddies different methods of replacing these parts. I'm wondering what tools I will need, such as a slide hammer and an adapter plate to remove the axle? How about removing bearings, seals and retainer ring? Will I need a press to remove these from the shaft and install the new ones?

Does anyone have any advice as far as the procedure go, maybe some tips?

Thank you!
I had almost an identical sound coming from the front area also.

Mine turned out to be be "a bad u-joint."

Check them all. You have the one next to your front DANA 35 pinion, and you have 2 on the rear drive shaft. Make sure to mark the position of your drive shaft before you take anything apart, so you can place it back in the same mfg balanced position. Check for fluid leaks at both rear and front differentials. "If fluid is noted?" You need to replaced your differential seals and diff. fluid.

Good luck.
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Old Oct 11, 2015 | 09:46 AM
  #5  
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
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We just did both axle bearings on my 2000 WJ. It is NOT a c-clip axle, the axles just slide out without opening the diff. We took the cover off afterwards just to inspect the wear pattern on the gears and flush it out.

The retainer ring for the bearing can be drilled with a 1/4" drill then split with a chisel to remove it, then the bearing can be removed by sliding it off with an air chisel with a punch in it. The new bearing can be put on and seated using a proper sized pipe and a hammer, then the retainer done the same way. The outer race should come off with the bearing, if not a slide hammer works well.

Just make sure to put the seal on BEFORE the bearing. DUH!

I just had one seal leaking, but I decided to do both bearings and seals anyway. 170K miles.

Last edited by dave1123; Oct 11, 2015 at 09:55 AM.
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