brennank22

I need to replace my "oil pan" and am wondering if this is easy enough to do myself. Is there a step by step process i can follow? I don't have much experience fixing cars.

This is my jeep:

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.7L 4WD

Bustedback

You would be better off farming this job out.

brennank22

It's gonna be $250 just for labor on this. If I can help it, I'd rather not farm it out. What will it take for me to fix this myself?

trucker

Drain the oil, drop the pan, put new gasket or silicon, put new one on. It could be messy, so do not do it on clean driveway or put some cover under the pan. Some tools require.

ol"blue

Don't pry the oil pan off you may damage the gasket. When the bolts are all removed tap the side of the pan with a rubber mallet to break it loose. On the 4.7L V8 the oil pan gasket and windage tray are a one piece design and must be replaced if damaged. To remove it you need to remove the oil-pump pick-up tube.

You need to get yourself a repair manual before starting this repair.
And Welcome to CF!

brennank22

Hey thanks for all the answer...

Ok, I have the service manual. I believe i found the right section. Is there just one "oil pan" in a jeep? Here is what it says about removing oil pan:

(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.

(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.

(3) Remove structural cover. Refer to Structural
Cover in this section for procedure.

(4) Remove exhaust system Y-pipe.

(5) Remove starter. Refer to Group 8B, Starting.

(6) Drain engine oil.

(7) Un-clip transmission lines from support on oil
pan stud. Move lines for oil pan clearance.

(8) Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.

(9) Remove oil pump pickup tube.

(10) Remove oil pan gasket.


Does all this sound right? If someone could add anything more to these steps that would be great. What is "exhaust system Y-pipe", for example.

Also, maybe I'm too stupid for this job but I need more detail than what is in the other posts.

ol"blue

Yeah that's it. The y-pipe is where the exhaust pipes from each of the 2 exhaust manifolds joins together to form 1 pipe that goes towards the rear of the Jeep. They form a "Y", hence the name.

ol"blue

If you have a repair manual w/pictures, some basic tools, and take your time you should be able to do the job if you've done some type of repairs before.
I wouldn't recommend this as your first repair job though.

Bustedback

And that is why I suggested farming this job out.

jurgovan

I apologize for the bump here instead of a new thread but I am preparing to replace the oil pan on my 99 GC with 4.7L engine. My original pan is rusted through in several spots and now I'm losing about 1 qt of oil per week, so it's time. I purchased the pan already and replaced the rusted trans oil cooler lines, which were leaking through too. So nothing else in my way except to start.

Any tips for removing the exhaust y-pipe? I was able to loosen one of the 4 bolts but no luck on the others. I tried to get cutting tools in to cut the bolts but that was tough. I sprayed them down with penetrating fluid but haven't messed with it in a while, so I'll spray again first.

I read that letting the suspension drop offers enough clearance to remove the pan without lifting the engine. Any experience with this?

I appreciate the help as usual.

jurgovan

Since my last post almost two weeks ago, my oil pan started leaking continuously from at least one rusted through hole. I checked the oil last friday and there wasn't any in there. I looked under the car and there was a puddle on the ground. I added 4 quarts since I needed it for a short drive and then parked it was a bucket underneath. So, I needed to tackle this job.

Well, it wasn't as much fun as I was anticipating. The exhaust y-pipe was a pain. I had to cut 2 of the 4 bolts, 1 broke, with the nut and broken bolt rusted on (had to be drilled out)and the other one actually turned out successfully. I also had to cut the exhaust pipe since the y-pipe was fully welded to the cats all the way to the muffler. I am not sure this is how all are or if it was the result of a shop welding universal cats on that lasted only one year and they went out of business, so I live with a CEL (I will probably get a O2 simulator to get rid of the CEL). I just used a junction with two clamps for reassembly, which seems fine.

Fortunately, I just replaced the trans oil cooler lines about a month ago. So I just removed them again, which got them out of the way.

No other major difficulties, other than working with the car on jack stands, oh yeah and one less fingernail. Would have been nice to have a lift, that's for sure. I am embarassed to say how many hours it took but it was basically a day and a half with short breaks along the way. Not sure if this was worth it versus a local shop doing this but at least it's done.

Hopefully all is well.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

jurgovan

Yesterday I drove about 500 miles and about 1 hour into it on the highway, the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0. I put it into neutral and coasted onto the shoulder. It went back up to regular pressure and I continued on to the next rest stop to check the oil level, which was fine. The pressure remained at typical levels the rest of the way. I did a lot of reading here about fluctuations and it seems most of the issues are related to the sending unit. Since I just replaced the oil pan, could it be something related to the oil pickup tube or something? Maybe I damaged the o-ring on the oil pickup tube. If the pressure truly dropped to zero at highway speeds, I would think the engine would have seized, right? I ensured the new oil pan was thoroughly cleaned but I didn't scrub the oil pickup tube, which didn't look bad though. Maybe just coincidence that I had this fluctuation within the first 100 miles of replacing the pan?

Any thoughts?

jurgovan

I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and no further issues with the oil pressure gauge fluctuations. The timing of this issue with the oil pan replacement didn't give me a warm feeling. I think the sending unit has been bad for a while. It didn't change much with RPMs lately, as the new one does. Thanks for the assistance.

gmullin

youll be surprized ho long some of the newer engions will last with no oil in them i work at a chevy dealership and had a 3.8v6 go 16000 miles before it spun a bearing due to the crank shaft not having a oil hole drilled in it for that bearing

mr-warwagon

yeah sending units ... at least for me and a few friends have a nasty habbit to read off or not at all