luistino

hi all
New member, 2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 3.6. Bog Standard..
has always been serviced by local dealer....at 120,000miles been thinking I should get to know it a little more. and joining forum. quite handy with wrenches, alfas, bmw, Ducati that kinda stuff. 2005 Grand caravan has never seen a Garage and runs great. Ok enough of that.
I decided that the next service or issue that crops up would be dealt with on site.
Today, i was rewarded with a weird one. driving home, heard a low volume high pitch whine, revs related. I checked under the hood all seemed to be spinning normally, so i figured i would start with buying a new belt. Did not make it home. battery light came on, the brake light came on, engine died, all electrics completely dead. tried jumper cables big spark at the posts. backed away, made sure polarity correct, tried again. no go. it behaves as if there is a short. Tow truck will have car here soon, plan to remove battery. install spare, test. if "short" problem persists, plan to disconnect alternator and test gain. that is far as my thinking goes so far. If anyone has any input it would be greatly appreciated. thank you in advance

dave1123

Welcome to CF!

It sounds to me like a battery that shorted internally. That may have fried the alternator also. I think that small red wire the comes off the battery terminal and goes to the fuse/relay box under the hood is a fusible link. That may be toasted as well. It supplies all the current for the entire jeep except for the starter when cranking.

If you get more than a very tiny spark when connecting the new battery, stop and check elsewhere.

luistino

dave1123

Now, you see, my experience with jeeps ends with 2004 so anything beyond that is just guessing. It boggles the mind that they'd put the battery underneath a power seat! That's insane! Try disconnecting the alternator. ALL the wires. Then try your new battery on that small red wire you just did. Are any of the fuses blown? You may be able to move the seat by using jumper wires into the seat power plug. I used a battery charger to hot-wire a window motor to get it closed in the middle of winter once. I had a broken wire in the door harness so it would go down, but not up. I left it unplugged after I got it up.

luistino

quick update. disconnected alternator, attached spare battery, all systems normal. Replaced Alternator, Serpentine belt and battery, car started and ran normally for an hour or so; suddenly.......battery light on, winshield wipers on, heat full blast, window motors not working, car started runing rough, engine died, no power steering, had just enough time to pull over before all systems off. An hour later attached spare battery, car started ran normally, drove home, no issues, left engine running, sure enough 15 minutes later, repeat of earlier symptoms and engine stopped running. battery was completely drained. Car seems to run normally when battery has a charge. Now looking for possible solutions to no charge or for the unlikely possibility of a drain that overcomes charge of new 220 amp alternator. Have searched on the internet and found out that this is not new or unique behavior.

Bugout4x4

Man... Ford did this too... Just scrap and eliminate everything in between the battery hot to the power box and the starter. The factory connections are junk and need to be eliminated. Go back to old school and customize it. As long as all connections are back for current flow you will be good.

But if you have a warranty... this is where "fixing it right" becomes a problem... If not then remove half that crap and make it "solid state" without the "engineered to fail" design crap in between. I am getting so sick of this engineered to fail crap... It's not rocket science.

They need to quit hiring rocket scientists who are not even intelligent enough to change out their own spare tire to design cars. lol.

DaveTDG

Sounds like it could be your tipm. Check the wires and connections to it. If all is solid, might have to replace it. I know there was a recall for those in jeeps close to your year. Check wires on the alt as well.

luistino

no warranty.
engineering by idiots...
.look at this battery installation. tell me theresis nothing wrong. Yes that is the positive terminal 1/8" away from chassis. there is no other way to install. if there ever rubber/plastic protection it aint there no more, we are the second owners of this deale maitained truck/suv.

luistino

alternator recall 2012- 2014. mine is a 2011. called Jeep, maybe can consider cost of alternator, but not towing, dealer diagnosys nor rental car.
TIPM recall not for myVIN. replacement parts $1000 plus. could be tipm but other fuctions controlled by tipm function.
10 to1, most of the problems are 2011, they recall 2012 'caus by that time they caught it and fewer cars with problem

luistino

Thanks for reply...
Its Sunday Morning, and for once I am working in daylight. Checking this and that. I decided to replace the new battery, in case it was a dud, The original was holding its charge so in it went. Many years ago, a Large European car ad featured a robot arm in an assembly line. The Text went something like this" Designed by enthusiasts and built by robots".... Somebody added.." and driven by idiots"
In this case designed by idiots seems to fit thing designed by idiots is us 1 no picture in manual of under seat battery installation
l

luistino

thanks bugout4x4 - no warranty
Its sunday morning, first time working on this in daylight. Original battery was holding its charge so i deciced to install in place of the new one in case the latter was a dud. looked into the well under the seat and this is how the battery gets installed...yes that is the positive terminal.

Bugout4x4

So is it all good now?

Actually... Other than that style of post clamp being prone to fairly quick electrolysis issues, it's better than on most new systems.

You may want to consider placing some sort of rubber or plastic liner between that post and the cabinet corner there. For myself, it looks a little too close for comfort even if it is tied down good.

luistino

Agree on the rubber, will wedge a stout piece in there.
Not sorted yet. ran some tests this morning. A literal pain to work on when hot!!
Replace shredded copper braided ground from chassis to block.
cleaned up grounds to computer
still no charge.
Checking into available External Voltage Regulator conversion kit.
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...11137000&ver=0
have an altel code scanner, will call them tomorrow see if that can tell me anything about the the PCM or TIPM.

Bugout4x4

Sounds like DaveTGM has had personal experience with this issue. I would follow his advice and check that for sure.

Sounds like you might be in the southwest like myself or you are new to your local summers. lol

Hot? It has been COLD for this time of year... We just don't remember from year to year or record it. I record it to prove a scientific theory I believe is now fact. But that is for another forum because the real data will not be appreciated here by many.

luistino

I am in Sunny New Jersey.....the heat referred to was from the engine compartment they have shoved the alternator hafway down the block, it is not easy to get to. Run the engine to test output, have to wait a looong while for pieces to cool. This morning took it to local Pepboys for a diagnostic check up. Have used these guys before on my Dodge and they do a good job. Never had to take it back for a redo. Anyway, they replaced the new battery and ran tests, which came back as " PCM no response" will go out in the midday sun and check fuses. Going to look up DaveTGM, thanks