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Old Jul 18, 2011 | 08:37 AM
  #31  
dpshoup's Avatar
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From: Canton, OH
Year: 2011
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.7
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Originally Posted by JeepFaced
It does not go to 2600RPM before I shift at any time. Ive never had the engine past 3200RPM period.
How can you enjoy the power of the V8 then??? Gotta let the big dog eat...
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Old Jul 19, 2011 | 11:25 PM
  #32  
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From: USA
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L V8
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Well, I got a lot riding on the next 3900 miles. I just want to grandma it until i get everything moved to Colorado and my wife is with me. =P Then, I am close to Moab and other wonderful places of interest. A Reward!

The ZJ is in the shop now. I replaced the governor pressure transducer and it had excellent power for a few feet but sadly it bogged down and did it's thing again. I got it in the shop first thing Monday and with the description of everything I had done saved me a bunch of labor. They took me for my word and immediately set to looking for a shorted wire or faulty harness. All of the connections and stuff turned out to be good.

However, the PCM turned out to be a junkyard swap from the wrong vehicle. Bingo. So, they have ordered 2 used PCM (to make sure one works) to see if that solves the fault. So, it might be out of the shop tomorrow afternoon.

I have asked to keep the old computer and if it works I might buy the second PCM Used cost $130. New in box AutoZone is $419 and at the Dealership list price is $680. Research says this is a common issue and maybe having that second PCM will come in handy, even if only to have as a swap/trade to another Jeeper in the future. I have to choose the junkyard swap for now because this is cutting into my moving expenses but I am definitely getting a brand new genuine Mopar PCM, TCM, and BCM after I am settled. I am pretty sure I will have a brand new vehicle.

While doing my initial research after getting my grubby hands on this Jeep, I became conflicted whether or not to buy a brand new PCM as my first purchase and went against my first instinct as an IT professional. I chose to replace sensors and do tune up procedures while working toward the PCM, instead of knocking that out first. I knew about the common solder problems, and I had the telltale indicator of "Coolant Level Sensor Bad BOOOP" which was not solved with a new Coolant Level Sensor and adequate coolant. Had I chosen to start with the PCM, I would have had a brand new baseline to start troubleshooting from; a brand new brain per se, to detect true faulty conditions. And to be honest, I chose to be lazy and not fight with the two corroded bolts at the foot of my Coolant Reservoir. I removed the cover plate and put 1/4" lockwasher spacers in the mounting bolts to eliminate a short condition possibility, but I did not take the module off the firewall and inspect the solders.

Hindsight is 20/20

As such, I would recommend others to start with the PCM first thing before wasting any other time and money on chasing sensors. Yes, throwing a brand new one in is expensive, but four sensors you dont need could cost the same, as well as the addition of the time it took you in labor. (Moreso if you put it in the shop.)
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 01:01 AM
  #33  
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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I look at replacing the PCM as a last resort after doing proper diagnostics and confirming that nothing else could be causing the problem.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 11:24 AM
  #34  
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Year: 1996
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Is that for no other reason than cost effectiveness? $100-400 is a small price to pay for 16 more years of service. Maybe it is just me looking at the parts to this Jeep as being ridiculously cheap compared with my Jetta.
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Old Jul 20, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #35  
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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I try to find the problem before replacing any parts, I try to do my best to verify the suspected part is the problem before I throw a new one on. I worked at a few dealerships in my life and they will not cover warranty repairs if it is found that a mechanic was just throwing parts at a vehicle. Sometimes it is next to impossible to pin point the problem and a trial and error method is used. I've only replaced 3 PCMs in my dealership days, they really don't go bad as often as people think, a lot more reliable than most home computers. The main sign of a PCM being bad is when it starts throwing weird codes and the engine fails to respond to anything done sensor wise. I don't doubt yours was bad, it's just a last resort to replace it for me.
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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #36  
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 5.2L V8
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Thats great news for me then, the new PCM should last for a long while then. =)

I drove it home, and the cylinder 7 misfire was MUCH more pronounced. Replacing the PCM fixed my shifting issues. The misfire hammered the torque converter at 35-40, 55-60, and 65-70 ranges enough to jar a filling loose after enough driving.

Took it to autozone and hooked up a compression tester, 120-130psi, holding pressure great. Noid light on injector plug blinked. Slapped in a Bosch Platinum+4... still herkyjerk. Got a fuel injector and put it in at 11:45pm and WOW this Jeep runs nice.

Cold air, ***** to the walls power, smooth ride all the way.

Tomorrow I leave for The Rockies.

Cheers!
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 08:26 AM
  #37  
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Year: 1996
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Woohoo Internet access again!

Well, after those fixes, I had to take the GC to Colorado to get my residence set up. I drove the 1200 miles and didnt have any real issues. As per upper console computer, I was getting 16.3 mpg and 419 miles to the tank.

I drove around Pueblo for two weeks looking for houses and property, getting to know the city and whatnot. Still no issues. No overheating, Nothing.

Then on the day I was leaving to go back to Kentucky to pick up my wife, there it was: a wet slash mark on the pavement parallel with my radiator, from wheel to wheel. I looked up under and sure enough the water pump was weeping.

I used the smart phone to find ratings on mechanics in the area and took it to a really good one but the labor rate was 85/hr. (We arent in Kentucky anymore, toto.) I didnt want to deal with the water pump so I bought one for $40 and had it put on for labor only.

They said my power steering pulley needed to be replaced because it had "stress fractures" and that my radiator has a leak. I knew my radiator needs replacing so I told em to throw a stick of leak-stop in and ill throw a new radiator in later for $120. No leak. I had them go ahead and change the power steering pulley for simple reason that they had the part right there and the current was 270k miles old. However, they did not burp the air out and when the pump circulated coolant, it would make a horrible gurgle like water was being splooshed into the glove compartment. I fixed that by running several 20 minute cycles of HEAT in the 100 degree weather.

Then I turned around and headed back to Kentucky. Another 1200 miles and no problems whatsoever. Great ride.

Then we loaded up a 5x8 U-haul and gave it about 1500 lbs and 700lb tongue weight. The installed hitch looks to be factory, rated 750/6500 and I went out and got a HD Reese hitch and ball. The combined use made for a very secure, nicely distributed load. I had towed a number of things but not a little trailer behind a truck, so this was something new to me.

I started out only driving 55 like the trailer said for max but you know how long that lasted. I learned that it was like the Jeep was designed for that one purpose; hauling my little, heavy, box o crap 1200 miles. Between KY and CO, there is a lot of flat land, but in the East there are a lot of big hills, and slow climbing trucks.

After driving for a while as if I were carrying a pile of chicken eggs in the trailer, I became more confident in towing at a higher speed, and smooth acceleration and braking. The 5.2L V8 is very responsive in straightaways and in uphill climbs with load or without. I had zero issues with kickdown and overtaking other vehicles. While driving through Arkansas, a huge storm cluster and tornado moved through from the Northwest to Southeast direction as we headed West. I centered the load in between the tongue and trailer axle centerline, and below truck center of gravity, so most of the actual weight was on the lower half of the trailer. While there was quite a ridiculous amount of wind blowing laterally at the trailer, it didnt even budge once. I experienced minimal sway and fishtailing "feeling." Outside of the storm, it really didnt feel like I was towing anything until I was accelerating from a complete stop.

Now, after driving over 3500 miles in a three week period, I feel I have become pretty familiar with the truck. I now need a new tensioner from using it too much I guess as the squeal is driving me nuts. Bac to the grind. =)

Jeep's name is Humpty Dumpty.
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #38  
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From: USA
Year: 1996
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Engine: 5.2L V8
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Update since I havent been on here in a while:

HD has been up and down Pikes Peak, the Sangre de Christo mountains, and the Wet Mountains, exhibiting strong performance both up and down. Of course I downshifted to second and first gears going down the grades. Brakes never overheated even with the front driver's side caliper piston hairline fracture. That is going to get replaced soon.

Tensioner finally gave way; the tensioner pulley bearings seized and the pulley melted off the bearing. The Dayco belt ran on the leftover bearing assembly SANS pulley, and shows only minute signs of damage, only one of any concern is a two dented ribs, indentations smaller than 1/4" parallel to one another. Kept the same belt for gimping purposes, and replaced the Tensioner assembly and idler pulley. Engine still squeals.

Squealing appears to be emanating from the Air Conditioner Compressor pulley by ear but hard to discern. Inside the vehicle, squeal is louder with the AC button OFF. When I allow the AC to be on, the tension is perhaps increased and the squealing lessens. Idling at a stop light or sign, the squeal sortof fades out until acceleration. Then it sounds like a banshee.

Passenger side CV boot is leaking out all of its internal grease, so I need to look at that.

Lastly, HD developed a leak that appears to only happen when the heat is on. Yay for coming winter. It is most likely the radiator; new one is actually $149 out here.

I'll be posting some pics of HD out at various national parks in future posts.

Happy Thanksgiving! I am grateful for my Jeep and access to a community of other Jeep heads like yourselves! Love!
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 02:55 PM
  #39  
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From: New Cumberland, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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beautiful jeep sir! my lady friend just picked up a 95 5.2 zj limited and it almost seems they had a similar life. especially the left sitting for a few years before selling. still pulling leafs and pine needles out of the bay. and the idiots ran with super low coolant for a while. but yeah definitely gonna follow and maybe learn a few things from you. i drive a 95 xj so the 5.2GC is new to me.
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 07:37 PM
  #40  
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From: Santa Clara, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.2
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Good story, Sounds like your jeep has more issues than mine, I spent 1500 on mine , but I also have chased down many problems on mine.
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