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Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!
Hey ladies and gents I am about to be the new owner of a 1999 Grand Cherokee Laredo that has 69 k original miles. The owner's son who is selling it for him doesn't have the fobs with it. I looked up the vin and got the build sheet and indeed it has keyless entry. Looking online a new remote on ebay is 20 bucks and dealer wants 60 bucks to program it. A locksmith said 55 bucks. Dang that's kind of steep of a total price for fob and installation but the vehicle's cost is a killer deal so I might just get the fob. I did read on a thread yesterday from this forum after googling and it brought me here that with the 99's, not sure if ALL or just the one's made late 98 early 99 or what), that you have to put the fob by the window for it to unlock the doors. I think I read some other comments on another site and can't remember how specific the year was but someone said there's worked fine up to 150 ft or so. It may have been the 8 yr old thread from this site yesterday not sure. But just want to get some insight on overall if it's worth it or not.
I am buying this vehicle for my son who is a beginner driver and will do a little work to it like shocks and tires and the AC has a hole in the line I believe he said. So fixing those few things and hear sort of a dragging noise that I heard when started to take off but then went away, fixing those few things and probably a sticking caliper should have it real good shape.
The Keyless Entry Receiver is in the passenger's door switch module and will recognize up to 6 codes after they are programmed in. The fobs don't get programmed but the receiver has to be able to recognize them. AND yes, it's expensive to get it done.
I find the range variable depending on how or where it's parked. It will react from 75' if the passenger's side is facing me and unobstructed, but if parked in a line of other cars, you have to get close. What I find annoying is sometimes if I have the keys in my pocket, something else in my pocket will push buttons and either lock, unlock, or set off the panic mode!
Following is a link to information regarding keyless entry that will help you understand the system. http://www.wjjeeps.com/sentry.htm
The issue of having to place the FOB at or against the window to get it to work has to do with the IR system (infra-red) that was last used in 1996 on the XJ. Grands of the same year and all XJ's after '96 use a RF signal (radio frequency).
On my 2000 WJ it seems the panic button will work from 300 feet but the door lock/unlock from only half that, which is still a good distance.
The Keyless Entry Receiver is in the passenger's door switch module and will recognize up to 6 codes after they are programmed in. The fobs don't get programmed but the receiver has to be able to recognize them. AND yes, it's expensive to get it done.
I find the range variable depending on how or where it's parked. It will react from 75' if the passenger's side is facing me and unobstructed, but if parked in a line of other cars, you have to get close. What I find annoying is sometimes if I have the keys in my pocket, something else in my pocket will push buttons and either lock, unlock, or set off the panic mode!
gotcha and thanks for your reply. I may or may not get it done. For so long with my other vehicles I'm used to having that option and its nice to not have to unlock the door manually especially if you have a lot of keys on your chain and don't want to worry about possibly getting a scratch on your vehicle lol.
Also good when you have your hands full of stuff to be able not have to put them down then unlock then pick back up but I guess it's just an adjustment that only takes a few seconds longer to unlock the door or unlock first then go get the stuff lol. When it's raining and you run outside from work to go to your car that's another thing too but overall I guess I'll see. I may just let my son if he wants it, let him pay for it if he deems he needs it lol. He just started his first job so............
Following is a link to information regarding keyless entry that will help you understand the system. http://www.wjjeeps.com/sentry.htm
The issue of having to place the FOB at or against the window to get it to work has to do with the IR system (infra-red) that was last used in 1996 on the XJ. Grands of the same year and all XJ's after '96 use a RF signal (radio frequency).
On my 2000 WJ it seems the panic button will work from 300 feet but the door lock/unlock from only half that, which is still a good distance.
cool good to know indeed the 99 I'm getting will have the RF vs the IR
Looking at the key the other day, it doesn't look like the one in the link in post # 3 so it might not have a chip in it. That would be a plus to not have that expense if indeed it doesn't have a chip.
From 99 up, they all have chipped keys. My 97 didn't have a SKIM, so it wouldn't need a chipped key. My 2 original keys are colored, one is grey and the other is brown. Any aftermarket key will be black. If you have the 2 original keys, you can program additional keys yourself and I highly recommend you add at least one key in case you loose one.
I have a key left over from my wife's 96 Dodge Caravan that looks identical to my jeep keys but isn't chipped. You can't tell if they're chipped just by looking at them. Aftermarket keys have their own code programmed in. The trick is to get the SKIM to recognize it.
From 99 up, they all have chipped keys. My 97 didn't have a SKIM, so it wouldn't need a chipped key. My 2 original keys are colored, one is grey and the other is brown. Any aftermarket key will be black. If you have the 2 original keys, you can program additional keys yourself and I highly recommend you add at least one key in case you loose one.
I have a key left over from my wife's 96 Dodge Caravan that looks identical to my jeep keys but isn't chipped. You can't tell if they're chipped just by looking at them. Aftermarket keys have their own code programmed in. The trick is to get the SKIM to recognize it.
gotcha appreciate it.
What do you think the noise in the rear is? Sounds like coming from pass side rear or rear in gen like a caliper might be sticking/grabbing initially when take off then it stops. I'll get the vehicle to a shop next week and get it check out good.
The caliper slide pins may need to be lubed. Make sure the lube gets inside the bushings before you install the pins. If you just lube the pins, it gets wiped off instead of getting inside. Another thing is the rotors tend to rust up overnight if it's damp or raining and the first few wheel rotations will clean that off. That happens overnight on brand new cars. More so on scored rotors.
The caliper slide pins may need to be lubed. Make sure the lube gets inside the bushings before you install the pins. If you just lube the pins, it gets wiped off instead of getting inside. Another thing is the rotors tend to rust up overnight if it's damp or raining and the first few wheel rotations will clean that off. That happens overnight on brand new cars. More so on scored rotors.
cool sounds good man.
I plan on getting new shocks and tires but will get a closer look at the truck this weekend. Getting it up on a lift as well to get it inspected will let me know if any other suspension work is needed. It came from Ohio and has 69 k miles on it, 99 Laredo. Looks good overall and clean.
Once in a while you make a score! Mine came from Washington, PA where they don't use salt on the roads. It was owned by a soccer-mom and garaged, washed, and maintained faithfully for 125K miles, then detailed and sold to me! The ONLY blemish I could find was a crack in the driver's armrest! Seriously! It's the nicest used car I've ever owned. I paid $4200 in 2012 for it and now it's got 230K on her.
Once in a while you make a score! Mine came from Washington, PA where they don't use salt on the roads. It was owned by a soccer-mom and garaged, washed, and maintained faithfully for 125K miles, then detailed and sold to me! The ONLY blemish I could find was a crack in the driver's armrest! Seriously! It's the nicest used car I've ever owned. I paid $4200 in 2012 for it and now it's got 230K on her.
NIce man, Zebra look
It's red with the grey bottom trimming. There's one small rust hole in the fender about the size of the head on a nail not too big and so I'll get that fixed. I'll have the underbody checked before I buy to make sure there isn't any significant or hopefully no or not much rust under there. Kelly blue book said 3-3300 and we work together and so he agreed to sell for 2-2300. I can work the 2000 because of the other things it needs as well plus also the drivers side mirror is broken and taped up and attached well so I'll repair that later as well. All in all for his 74 yr old dad who had it it seems he kept it up pretty well and the paint still looks excellent. The grey at the bottom can be redone though.
Look for rust behind that cladding at the bottom of the doors. That's where mine has started.
Scrub up those cladding sections and bumpers (fascias) and use Krylon Fusion for plastics on them. Satin black should look good against the red, I think.
Look for rust behind that cladding at the bottom of the doors. That's where mine has started.
Scrub up those cladding sections and bumpers (fascias) and use Krylon Fusion for plastics on them. Satin black should look good against the red, I think.
I'd likely have to mask the entire vehicle pretty good to avoid overspray if I'm going to spray with a can correct? If so I will compare the time to do that versus a body shop to refinish it for me
I was told my 99 xj limited had the grand security system when I had a remote start installed. Will start up to about 500 feet. will also unlock at that same distance. Cost about $100, might be an option.
02-06-2018, 01:59 PM
Keyless Entry: Worth it and few other questions
