First let me start out by saying, hello and thank you for having created such a website for people to come and talk shop.
As of last month i have officially become a Jeep owner. It has been many years a dream of mine to become a jeep owner, and last month i finally found a jeep to my liking and style/taste.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...s/100_0205.JPG

pics of the modified 1997 Jeep Cherokee above.

But my off road dreams are being hampered by a very annoying problem that i cant seem to find anyone to resolve. After a month of anticipated grinding, rewiring, painting and much needed TLC, i was ready to take the jeep out off road.

Thats when this mysterious problem reared its ugly head.

when it happens i have to wait like 30-40 minutes and then it starts like nothing happened. anyways after about an hour of riding even putting around the trail it wont idle anymore and stalls out and wont start. i can use starter fluid and it will start up but i have to keep reving it to keep it running. but if i wait 40 minutes...it starts right up like nothing is wrong...

i can almost time it ...like clockwork...ride a little bit..and then it koncks out. wait and it starts right back up.

.it almost acts like its overheating and shuts down. but the temp gauge doesnt act like it. and if i keep it running ( meaning anytime it does this i can spray starter fluid in it and it runs fine as long as i keep my foot on the gas)...that thing will drive for 3 hours straight...i know because thats how i got it from crum, wv.

Here is what i have done so far:

Cleaned all connectors. To include TPS, CPS, CTS, PCM connectors.
Tried with no air filter.
Tried turning key on and off 8 times (read it on the internet lol)
Banging/kicking the gas tank.
Checked all plug wires.
Checked all grounds i could find.
Checked for frayed or burnt wires.


Anyways, im at a loss. I have no clue what to do. And doing the process of elimination and replacing one thing after another isnt really an option. Im a disabled vet on a fixed budget so money is tight.

Thank you for any help that can be given.

Typed Sincrely,

Mike.

Sounds like a fuel pump getting hot and quitting, then cools off and works. If you want you can screw a fuel pressure test guage onto the injector rail and see what the fuel pressure is doing when it dies. If the pressure drops out of spec then start looking at the fuel pump and circuits. For a quick and free guess you might open the fuse/relay box under the hood and swap the fuel pump relay with another one and see what happens. You can borrow/rent a pressure test guage from most auto parts stores. Fuel pressure specs are 44-54psi, if its dropping below 44 you will start having running problems or dying.

Thank you , jnicewan. Will try both of those things.

I do remember several times pressing on the outlet on the rail and every time fuel shot out with alot of force. Wouldnt hurt to test it out with a gauge. Will try the fuel relay as well.

I knew the relay wasnt making a clicking sound so i figured it was working.

Someone also suggested the the CTS sensor on the side of the radiator housing could be going bad or malfunctioning. Supposedly that will cause fuel problems or set off the ASD? and shut it down?

Another rumor is adding 8mm washers to the PCM mounting screws and supposdly that fixes this.

Any thoughts on any of this?

if the relay is not clicking, it is not working.

sorry for the dumb question but what does that fuel relay do exactly? Trying to figure out of it working then not working then working again would be the relay.

You may have an idle air control motor problem. They will get hot and cause the engine to stall once you come to a stop. If it will run with your foot on the gas, but die if you take your foot off of the gas, you have an IAC issue. Replace it, cleaning the old crusty one will last about a week before it acts up again.

Well i replaced the IAC valve and during the time waiting for the part i flushed the complete radiator system.

Started up and sounded good. So i take it for a test drive down to the gas station and back..on the way back it stalls. Not even 5 miles total...and now its stalling way sooner. Had to use starter fluid to get it back started. Ran for about a half a mile and stalled and wont start even with starter fluid. Had to be towed home.

Now im really at a loss and confused. Starting to get worried that I wont be able to figure this one out.

Could be the cam or crank sensor.

Check for codes yet ?

Try unplugging battery for a while and let the computer reset. Mine would do the same thing when I was having battery problems. Would jump start but it would shut off as soon as it cranked up, would have to keep revved. Unplugged battery let it sit jump start again and problem solved.

havent checked for codes yet. ordered a new crank sensor, wow was i in for a treat. finally borrowed enough extensions to get to it. then the bolt broke off. YIPEEE...trying to still get it out in the process i gashed 2 fingers pretty bad and decided after stopping the bleeding that this is to far out of my skill set.

mechanic is coming tomorrow to hopefully tow this thing and fix it. im at my wits end. Hopefully the crank sensor will get installed and be the fix that has been plaguing this purchase. i really hope this fixes it. starting to feel like i may have mad a bad purchase.

crank shaft posistion sensor replaced...still will stall when it gets hot after an hour or so. cant really check for codes as the vehicle is heavily modified and things have been removed and cut. not sure that would be the best route.

so what would cause it to stall out after getting hot creeping thru the woods. then wait 40 min and it starts right back.

replaced the IAC valve sensor
crankshaft post sensor...

Cam sensor.

i called advance auto, they dont show a cam sensor listed. any ideas?

Well there is one. Camshaft sensor should be available and show up and just about any parts place