When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!
Im changing out my axle assemblies and wheel bearings. I can not get the hub bolt off for the life of me. I have soaked it for days with pb blaster and wd-40. I have a broker bar and a long steel pipe over it making it longer. I can not get it to budge even a little bit! I am going to try a torch on it but wanted to see if there was something I was missing. I have a screw driver in the rotor so it won't turn. What else can I do? This is the third separate time I have tried this.
LOL, I so feel your pain as my son and I just went through this 2 weekends ago in order to replace the upper and lower ball joints. 3 breaker bars later, a lot of heat and PB blaster, we got them off. We took care not to get too hot, didn't want to wick the grease from the hubs. What we found that worked...
Heat with MAP gas, get breaker bar on with cheater, put tension (260# body weight) on cheater and then smack socket with BFH.
At a plant where I worked, we had to remove the flywheel from a large vertical punch press. It was secured with a nut with a 3" diameter thread and hadn't been off since it was built in 1925. The maintenance foreman locked the shaft with a block of steel in the gears, put a large wrench on the nut with a chainfall on the outer end, heated it with a 3" oxy bonnet torch until it was red hot, then sprayed it with a CO2 extinguisher. The nut cracked and turned. Everybody ran when the wrench came swinging on the chainfall! Surprisingly, the flywheel came off the shaft pretty easily. Of course, then the toolroom had to make a new nut!
Last edited by dave1123; Oct 20, 2017 at 01:41 AM.
LOL, I so feel your pain as my son and I just went through this 2 weekends ago in order to replace the upper and lower ball joints. 3 breaker bars later, a lot of heat and PB blaster, we got them off. We took care not to get too hot, didn't want to wick the grease from the hubs. What we found that worked...
Heat with MAP gas, get breaker bar on with cheater, put tension (260# body weight) on cheater and then smack socket with BFH.
I picked up a torch from Lowes today. Not sure if the gas is MAP gas though. Im guessing it will say on it somewhere. Got the blue BernzOmatic can from Lowes
I picked up a torch from Lowes today. Not sure if the gas is MAP gas though. Im guessing it will say on it somewhere. Got the blue BernzOmatic can from Lowes
Seriously... If you still can't get it loose, take it down to a shop and ask them if they would put a 3/4 drive impact on it for you to run it off for $20. Then put it back on just snug enough to get home and pull it back off by hand. I would do this in a heartbeat at my shop. It's a two minute 20 bucks.
These nuts and pinion nuts are WHY shops own 3/4 and 1 inch drive impacts.
If you're running open wheels like trailertrash, he doesn't even have to put it on the lift.
Even if you have to pull the wheel out of the way yourself first, it's worth it. I stopped even trying to get these off any other way. My first thought is "Who's got an impact handy?" Guys at truck stops or tire shops are pretty good about helping with these kind of things.