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- Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ 1993 to 1998 How to Replace Track Bar
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
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how to remove track bar
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
Front or rear bar? The front may require a pickle fork at the frame mount end, and the rear will require removing the driver side rear shock and jacking the body up enough so the axles end of the track bar clears the fuel tank, and you will need a T50 torx bit.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: AnkaraTurkey
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
front, we removed steering rod from driver side knuckle, and released mounting point. then we removed front track bar. you may need to remove sway bar link at same side. actually those elements are different on pre 96 zj. tie rods are car like after 96.
rear is easier.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 671
Likes: 0
From: Telford PA
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Yeah it is really not hard at all. Bottom is easy and for the top you may need a tie rod removal fork tool to get the joint out then I replaced it with a heim joint.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
From: Grand Haven, MI
Year: 1996
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 V8
torx bit, thats what i meant to say
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
there is a tabbed nut in behind the track bar. there is a slot in the mount bracket that the tab sticks out. the bolt probably just has some corrosion that is making it too wide to come through the sleeve in the track bar.
you could try using a pry bar on the head of the bolt and force the bolt out.
if that doesn't work, you might have to get a sawzall blade in the nut slot and try to cut the corroded part of the bolt away so the bolt can slide through the bushing.
but don't cut the bolt head off, you will be screwed then.
if you can hammer the back of the bolt head to bang it out, try that.
you could try using a pry bar on the head of the bolt and force the bolt out.
if that doesn't work, you might have to get a sawzall blade in the nut slot and try to cut the corroded part of the bolt away so the bolt can slide through the bushing.
but don't cut the bolt head off, you will be screwed then.
if you can hammer the back of the bolt head to bang it out, try that.
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