High pitch squeal at 40 mph +
11-10-2016, 03:54 PM
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
High pitch squeal at 40 mph +
This has just started. I get to 40 mph and squeal starts. Sounds like from front left. It is a 2000 grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0. Have short clip. Any help would be appreciated. 
11-11-2016, 10:07 PM
#5
Old fart with a wrench
If it's Selectrac, put it in 2wd with the rear axle up on jack stands, chock the front wheels, and put it in gear, run it up to 40mph and listen. It could be a rear axle bearing.
If it's Quadratrac, you'll have to do it on a lift.
If it's Quadratrac, you'll have to do it on a lift.
11-12-2016, 06:52 AM
#6
Beach Bum
An infra red temperature gun is a great tool for diagnosing a suspected bad bearing.
11-12-2016, 06:59 AM
#7
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Year: 2000
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Thanks everyone it was left rear. Seal and bearing bad, diff fluid everywhere. Truck has 187,000 miles, I ordered rear kit for Axels and while I am at it the front hub assembles. Will post updates.
Thx
Thx
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11-12-2016, 07:08 AM
#8
Old fart with a wrench
The problem with diagnosing a wheel bearing is it will act different loaded or unloaded, is in with the vehicle's weight on it. The only real way to tell is to inspect it visually. That's not always possible with today's cartridge units.
You've got to remove the bearing to replace the seal anyhow, why not just put a new bearing in it. Do yourself a favor and do both sides while you're at it. That's what I did with mine. Funny that it was MY left rear seal that was leaking also!
Warning! The front hubs can be a be-ach to get out of the mounting bore. Clean them up good and apply anti-seize when you put them in. The bolt heads are 12-point but can be replaced with grade 8 truss-head bolts. Those have wide washer-like heads on them.
You've got to remove the bearing to replace the seal anyhow, why not just put a new bearing in it. Do yourself a favor and do both sides while you're at it. That's what I did with mine. Funny that it was MY left rear seal that was leaking also!
Warning! The front hubs can be a be-ach to get out of the mounting bore. Clean them up good and apply anti-seize when you put them in. The bolt heads are 12-point but can be replaced with grade 8 truss-head bolts. Those have wide washer-like heads on them.
Last edited by dave1123; 11-12-2016 at 07:17 AM.
11-12-2016, 07:32 AM
#10
Old fart with a wrench
The PROPER way is to use a press, but I used a clean piece of pipe. The retainer ring is soft enough to drill, then split with a chisel. The bearing comes off with a punch because it's not a REALLY tight fit. The retainer ring is though.
You can bust the bearing to remove it, but pieces of hardened steel at high velocity are DANGEROUS!! I have a friend who is lucky to be alive today thanks to his wife. A piece of bearing cut an artery in his arm and with quick action by his wife, stopped the bleeding and called 911.
You can bust the bearing to remove it, but pieces of hardened steel at high velocity are DANGEROUS!! I have a friend who is lucky to be alive today thanks to his wife. A piece of bearing cut an artery in his arm and with quick action by his wife, stopped the bleeding and called 911.
Last edited by dave1123; 11-12-2016 at 07:37 AM.
11-12-2016, 09:38 AM
#11
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Year: 2000
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You read my mind, just went and bought press. harbor freight been needing one for a while. Thank you for all your advice. Will install tonight and post results. I am original owner and has almost 200,000 miles, can't complain got a lot of miles out of them.
Thx again
ckegman
Thx again
ckegman
11-12-2016, 07:00 PM
#12
Old fart with a wrench
Yeah, my wheel bearing went at about 195K miles. You can buy Mopar at Rockauto for $50. I believe OE is Spicer. I bought Timkin.
Last edited by dave1123; 11-12-2016 at 07:04 PM.