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High pitch squeal at 40 mph +

Old 11-10-2016, 03:54 PM
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Default High pitch squeal at 40 mph +

This has just started. I get to 40 mph and squeal starts. Sounds like from front left. It is a 2000 grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0. Have short clip. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-10-2016, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ckegman View Post
This has just started. I get to 40 mph and squeal starts. Sounds like from front left. It is a 2000 grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0. Have short clip. Any help would be appreciated.
Wheel hub/bearing possibly. Jack up the left side, check for play in the wheel/tire and anything abnormal when you spin it.
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Old 11-10-2016, 04:37 PM
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Thanks am going to do that tonight. Will post results of test.
thx
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:54 AM
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checked all 4 everything is nice and tight. slight leak in left rear seal, check diff fluid. It is okay.
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Old 11-11-2016, 10:07 PM
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If it's Selectrac, put it in 2wd with the rear axle up on jack stands, chock the front wheels, and put it in gear, run it up to 40mph and listen. It could be a rear axle bearing.

If it's Quadratrac, you'll have to do it on a lift.
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ckegman View Post
checked all 4 everything is nice and tight. slight leak in left rear seal, check diff fluid. It is okay.
You likely found the issue, rear wheel bearing. I have a similar issue and just ordered bearings, seals and retainer. $49 each side, from CarParts.com
An infra red temperature gun is a great tool for diagnosing a suspected bad bearing.
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:59 AM
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Thanks everyone it was left rear. Seal and bearing bad, diff fluid everywhere. Truck has 187,000 miles, I ordered rear kit for Axels and while I am at it the front hub assembles. Will post updates.
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:08 AM
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The problem with diagnosing a wheel bearing is it will act different loaded or unloaded, is in with the vehicle's weight on it. The only real way to tell is to inspect it visually. That's not always possible with today's cartridge units.

You've got to remove the bearing to replace the seal anyhow, why not just put a new bearing in it. Do yourself a favor and do both sides while you're at it. That's what I did with mine. Funny that it was MY left rear seal that was leaking also!

Warning! The front hubs can be a be-ach to get out of the mounting bore. Clean them up good and apply anti-seize when you put them in. The bolt heads are 12-point but can be replaced with grade 8 truss-head bolts. Those have wide washer-like heads on them.

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Old 11-12-2016, 07:17 AM
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Dave, did you use a press to install new bearings, or a piece of pipe?
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:32 AM
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The PROPER way is to use a press, but I used a clean piece of pipe. The retainer ring is soft enough to drill, then split with a chisel. The bearing comes off with a punch because it's not a REALLY tight fit. The retainer ring is though.

You can bust the bearing to remove it, but pieces of hardened steel at high velocity are DANGEROUS!! I have a friend who is lucky to be alive today thanks to his wife. A piece of bearing cut an artery in his arm and with quick action by his wife, stopped the bleeding and called 911.

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Old 11-12-2016, 09:38 AM
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You read my mind, just went and bought press. harbor freight been needing one for a while. Thank you for all your advice. Will install tonight and post results. I am original owner and has almost 200,000 miles, can't complain got a lot of miles out of them.
Thx again
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:00 PM
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Yeah, my wheel bearing went at about 195K miles. You can buy Mopar at Rockauto for $50. I believe OE is Spicer. I bought Timkin.

Last edited by dave1123; 11-12-2016 at 07:04 PM.
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