Hesitate on acceleration
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I've talked to several mechanics and they say the coil pack is ALWAYS suspect when multiple misfires happen randomly. IDK myself, but I'd start with the TPS.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Still acts up. Could it be a bad signal wire to computer. It starts fine when cold. it runs fine and temp rises normally until themostat opens. Then temp gauge drops way down, and it starts running rough, will stall at low rpm's, and hard to start, Needs to be floored to start.
fuel pressure holds steady at 55psi. I did check feed voltage to the ects and it was a little over 5volts. When cold, with connector unhooked, I jumpered off the feed to one side of sensor and the other side read slightly less than the feed, which I would expect. When the connector was hooked back up, and I backpinned and measured the voltage going back to the pcm, it was 12 milliVolts. Shouldn't it be higher than that?
I also checked my tps. It shows a voltage variation thru the travel range. In the middle, there seems to be one spot that's dead, but a very small spot. Also checked mas, and that seemed ok. Definitely temp related, and I don't see why the gauge would change so quickly especially with a new sensor. I'm going to look at the pcm, and jumper right from there back to the temp sensor and see if I get the same low voltage readings.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Just for giggles, change the thermostat. It sounds to me like it's not functioning properly. I sounds like it's opening all the way and not holding a normal operating temperature. This would cause the PCM to stay in open loop mode thinking the engine is still cold. 'Cause it is.
Yes, I thought that too, so I just changed the thermostat. What puzzles me is that the temp gauge changes from 100 up to 200 or the other way in a second. I was testing more last night, and I found the pcm pin for the coolant temp sensor. I put a back pin on that, and ran the jeep till it got hot. I also pinned the same wire right where it feeds the sensor. I'm not sure how the pcm tells what the resistance is, maybe current flow. I was thinking the other side of the sensor goes to a common sensor ground. Anyway while testing, I had 5.14v at the pcm, but only 2.45v at the sensor on the same wire. At that time, the temp gauge was reading 100. Sometimes the voltage right at the sensor was 5.14, and those times the temp gauge showed a seemingly accurate reading of 210 or so.
Yes, I thought that too, so I just changed the thermostat. What puzzles me is that the temp gauge changes from 100 up to 200 or the other way in a second. I was testing more last night, and I found the pcm pin for the coolant temp sensor. I put a back pin on that, and ran the jeep till it got hot. I also pinned the same wire right where it feeds the sensor. I'm not sure how the pcm tells what the resistance is, maybe current flow. I was thinking the other side of the sensor goes to a common sensor ground. Anyway while testing, I had 5.14v at the pcm, but only 2.45v at the sensor on the same wire. At that time, the temp gauge was reading 100. Sometimes the voltage right at the sensor was 5.14, and those times the temp gauge showed a seemingly accurate reading of 210 or so.
Here is what happened. Hope it helps someone in the future. Both pins on the connector of the engine coolant temp sensor weren't makng good contact. As things heated up, I saw voltage variations. I finally got the pins out, munched them down a little, and after a little time and persuasion, got the connector connected again. No more temp fluctuations, and hopefully no more stalling. I went for a 20 mile ride no problem. After the fix, the voltage on the ground side of the sensor was reading about 3.4 volts cold and would drop to .93 or so when hot when the gauge showed 210. Voltage trended smoothly down as it heated, and up a smidgeon briefly when the tstat opened and cooled slightly, but no big swing in voltage.
Here's what else I learned. I bought a new cam position sensor and crank position sensor and a new temp sensor. Probably $130 of parts I didn't really need. I saw the big temp swing, should have put that together with the poor run/stall at idle as the computer reacted to the seemingly low temp. Anyway I'm a happy man now, and hope someone may benefit from my experience.
Here's what else I learned. I bought a new cam position sensor and crank position sensor and a new temp sensor. Probably $130 of parts I didn't really need. I saw the big temp swing, should have put that together with the poor run/stall at idle as the computer reacted to the seemingly low temp. Anyway I'm a happy man now, and hope someone may benefit from my experience.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Cool! (pun intended) The temp sensor is just a variable resistor so poor connections are a no-no. The IAT, trans fluid thermistor, and outside temp sensors are also just variable resistors. This stuff works on 5 volts, so good clean connections are vital. I'm glad you found it!
CF Veteran




Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Still having issues. Definitely a lower rpm issue. i have a spare motor which ran fine until a rod pushed out through the oil pan. i took from that the iac and tps. I also replaced from o'reillys, the crank sensor and cam sensor. Replaced plugs, fuel pressure is fine at rail, right around 55psi. I'm not sure about the coil pack, don't have a good test for that. i have the coolant sensor on order. The temp does seem to be erratic. The gauge shows barely off the low end even when it's been running for a while. Sometimes it's up close to 200. The issue's remain. It can start and run fine, but sometimes as rpm drops, it stalls. We had a really hot day, the car sat for an hour, and wouldn't start. i can usually get it started by flooring the pedal and cranking. it starts reluctantly, and as it gets up to 3000 rpm, i back off a little, too low and it will stall again. i've pretty much exhausted my ideas. Hoping the coolant sensor helps. I also wonder about the mass air flow sensor, i can change that from the spare motor. You guys have any ideas?
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