2002wjfrankenstein

I have a 2002 wj with the 4.7 . 4" springs 2" spacers , dual steering stabilizer. Dt 8000 prerunner shocks .adjustable trackbar ,front upper and lower control arms adjustable , rear adjustable lower control arms. And upper adjustable Y link, addco 1" rear sway bar all new. Bushings are new on front axle. New synergy ball joints newer moog tierod ends. New front yukon cv axles and moog hub assembly. Fresh axle fluids front and rear new Detroit axle steering box . Now for my problem. Under acceleration jeep pulls to the left let off the gas and pulls back to the right. Why am i getting this . I aslo had some horrible fish tailing going on now its slightly after adding the addco rear swaybar . Im guessing longer end links would take care of the rest of the tail wag / fish tailing . It also feels like im wandering alot in my lane but mostly when the highway isnt a new surface. Seems like the steering is incredibly touchy im running 305/ 55/ 20 Mastercraft mudd tiers

SteveMongr

The wandering and fishtailing and touchy steering is likely due alignment being out of whack. All those adjustable control arms must be dialed in to get the correct caster and wheelbase.
Same with the torque steer. Pulling in one direction under acceleration is a sign of the 'thrust alignment' being off.
It should still drive good/fair without sway bars being connected.

XJRed96

20 inch rims huh. big as rims. make sure your tire pressures are correct, with those tire sizes i may try running the pressure around 25 psi. but more importantly try to find a local alignment shop that doesn't mind working on upgraded rigs as mentioned above. if possible ask for a print out when they are done of the final specs.

Sway bars would only really make a difference in limiting body sway during higher speed turns (on/off ramps) not driving straight or accelerating.

2002wjfrankenstein

Thats what i have been saying that the alignment is off . Ive had it to two different shops that are supposed to be 4x4 experts. Guess its time to get ugly. As for the tier pressure im running around 38 psi after they are heated up.

SteveMongr

You can sort of verify the alignment yourself by 'stringing' for the thrust and wheelbase. Angle finder for caster. Tape measure for toe-in.
A printout of the alignment specs would be good to see. Specifications would need to be fitting for this size lift.
38 psi is too high. That tire is weight rated for light trucks, our jeeps are considerably lighter. Your psi should be in the mid to upper 20's.
33psi is what the stock tire runs.

XJRed96

and with the larger tire you don't need as much pressure per square inch as you do with a stock tire because there are more square inches of contact with the larger tire. those tires are about 23% wider than stock tires so if you ran about 20% less pressure (26.4psi from stock 33)) it should provide tire handling characteristics closer to stock.

Monster truck tires run around 9-11PSI and they dont even look remotely close to flat, compared to when someone with a more traditional Off-Road tire and beadlocks runs at 11Psi or lower the tire is nearly flat.

HP2

I read a lot about front suspension rebuild but what is the condition of the bushing in your rear suspension and transmission/transfer case mounts? As mentioned above, thrust spec on the rear come into play here.


You added a rear bar where there was none previously? Did you step up the size of the front bar? If not, you have added an excessive amount of roll rate to the rear. Suspensions will tend to loose traction at the end with too much rate first. Your rear now has excessive rate. To eliminate it, remove or decrease the size of the rear bar, or increase the size of the front bar, or install higher rate springs in front.


Tramlining is what this is called. It tends to become worse with wider tires. 305 is a pretty healthy width. To offset this, you need to increase caster which will increase resistance to the wander and improve return to center characteristics of the steering. However, I think there may be physical limits to how much caster you can get in one of these. A more detailed discussion with your shop is in order.

Id be reluctant to run too low of pressure on the highway for a couple of reasons. Low pressure will generate extra heat in the carcass. Heat is what destroys tires and makes them come apart at 75 mph. Additionally, lower pressure provides less support to the sidewalls. Emergency manuevers with a soft sidewall can result in rollovers.

XJRed96

I keep my 275/70s at 26 the look fully inflated. when you get those bigger tires designed for heavier loads when you start over inflating them they tend to run along the center of the tread only (limiting the amount of contact with the road) instead of evenly across the entire width. i get the best drive ability out of them (better tracking at hwy speeds, smoother rides, gentler bumps) and the pressure hasn't gone up more than 1 or 2 psi after a long drive which implies that the heat being generated is similar to any other tire at 35 psi. now when i load the trunk up and hook my boat up, i generally inflate the fronts to 30-32 and rears 38-40

If i had stock tires when i'm fully loaded i'd run the fronts at 36-38 and the rears around 42-44(max PSI on most Passenger series tires)

2002wjfrankenstein

Thanks to everyone for the help . Ive decided to change the lift totally and go with the Ironrock offroad 6.5 adjustable long arm front upgrade and purches the springs and shocks along with tha adjustable A arm for the rear . I had a set of core4x4 lower adjustable arms already installed. We shall see how this thing handles after this. Just waiting on the tomwoods DS to come in then i should have it back from the shop soon . Also did a brake upgrade to the powerstop drilled and sloted rotors and z36 pads anyone use these before ?

dave1123

Yeah, I used the Powerstop rotors and they turned blue around the holes! Then they started to groove the pads and consequently the rotors themselves. As far as I'm concerned, they are junk! If you buy their kit, the calipers are painted red. That lasted about a month. Don't use ceramics pads either. they will squeak constantly.