Gauges not working while running
10-25-2017, 10:26 AM
#1
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Gauges not working while running
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 2WD, V6
my gauges work perfectly while key is in ON position, but as soon as i start the jeep all gauges die, all lights work, i have no idea what could it be, any suggestions?
my gauges work perfectly while key is in ON position, but as soon as i start the jeep all gauges die, all lights work, i have no idea what could it be, any suggestions?
10-25-2017, 11:14 AM
#2
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Year: 2000 sport
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: New 4.0l from s&j engines
Thank you for your post, Welcome to Cherokee forum.
I'm not too familiar with Grand Cherokee side of Jeeps but we have a lot of good guys here that do.
One of them will post up soon (maybe)
Im just doing the welcome wagon thing..lol
I'm not too familiar with Grand Cherokee side of Jeeps but we have a lot of good guys here that do.
One of them will post up soon (maybe)
Im just doing the welcome wagon thing..lol
10-25-2017, 02:37 PM
#3
Old fart with a wrench
Thanks for the intro Duma, but electrical problem in the WJ get so confusing because everything is so integrated. I will say the gauge cluster is controlled by both the PCM and the BCM, The PCM for gauge inputs and the BCM for warning lights and chimes. Just for jollies, try jiggling the key when it's running and see if it effects the gauges. It's strange that they work with the ignition on, yet don't work after it's running.
Beginning in 99, the WJ has a PCI data bus where all the modules are interconnected and share information both ways on a single data connection whenever the engine is running. This data bus is a 5 volt digital pathway so clean connections and perfect grounds are important.
I haven't tried this myself, but ease the key toward start from on after the warning lights go out. I believe the gauges stay active. They may not. All of the information displayed on the gauges comes from the PCM and not from the individual sensors themselves. If the PCM wasn't powered up on start, the engine wouldn't start. I'm just thinking out loud, as it were, going thru the sequences as I understand them.
If you turn the key on to run and wait until the warning lights go thru their cycle and go off, do the gauges stay active then? If they do, it might be a loose connection in the power plug on the cluster that's causing them to go out after startup. You can try pulling the gauge cluster and clean the connector plug. The entire cluster comes out by removing the trim piece on the bottom of the cluster (It's just 4 spring clips), then there are 4 phillips screws holding it in.
If this doesn't have any effect, come back and we'll talk some more. BTW, the 4.0 is a straight 6.
Beginning in 99, the WJ has a PCI data bus where all the modules are interconnected and share information both ways on a single data connection whenever the engine is running. This data bus is a 5 volt digital pathway so clean connections and perfect grounds are important.
I haven't tried this myself, but ease the key toward start from on after the warning lights go out. I believe the gauges stay active. They may not. All of the information displayed on the gauges comes from the PCM and not from the individual sensors themselves. If the PCM wasn't powered up on start, the engine wouldn't start. I'm just thinking out loud, as it were, going thru the sequences as I understand them.
If you turn the key on to run and wait until the warning lights go thru their cycle and go off, do the gauges stay active then? If they do, it might be a loose connection in the power plug on the cluster that's causing them to go out after startup. You can try pulling the gauge cluster and clean the connector plug. The entire cluster comes out by removing the trim piece on the bottom of the cluster (It's just 4 spring clips), then there are 4 phillips screws holding it in.
If this doesn't have any effect, come back and we'll talk some more. BTW, the 4.0 is a straight 6.
Last edited by dave1123; 10-25-2017 at 02:41 PM.
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pzolan (04-06-2022)
10-25-2017, 04:01 PM
#4
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I just went through this recently but my issue included a couple more nuisance conditions which (I think) were resolved by connector mate-cycling, inspection and cleaning of every connector on the PCI Bus. Does your "CHECK GAUGES" idiot-light illuminate too? Are there any other symptoms or DTCs? If the answer to each of my questions is "NO" then jiggle the connectors on the forward facing (firewall) side of the BCM and try it again. If that doesn't work then pull the cluster to cycle the connector mate on the backside of the cluster. Let me know if you have any luck with the jigglies...
10-26-2017, 03:36 AM
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No luck
Thanks for the intro Duma, but electrical problem in the WJ get so confusing because everything is so integrated. I will say the gauge cluster is controlled by both the PCM and the BCM, The PCM for gauge inputs and the BCM for warning lights and chimes. Just for jollies, try jiggling the key when it's running and see if it effects the gauges. It's strange that they work with the ignition on, yet don't work af
Beginning in 99, the WJ has a PCI data bus no where all the modules are interconnected and share information both ways on a single data connection whenever the engine is running. This data bus is a 5 volt digital pathway so clean connections and perfect grounds are important.
I haven't tried this myself, but ease the key toward start from on after the warning lights go out. I believe the gauges stay active. They may not. All of the information displayed on the gauges comes from the PCM and not from the individual sensors themselves. If the PCM wasn't powered up on start, the engine wouldn't start. I'm just thinking out loud, as it were, going thru the sequences as I understand them.
If you turn the key on to run and wait until the warning lights go thru their cycle and go off, do the gauges stay active then? If they do, it might be a loose connection in the power plug on the cluster that's causing them to go out after startup. You can try pulling the gauge cluster and clean the connector plug. The entire cluster comes out by removing the trim piece on the bottom of the cluster (It's just 4 spring clips), then there are 4 phillips screws holding it in.
If this doesn't have any effect, come back and we'll talk some more. BTW, the 4.0 is a straight 6.
Beginning in 99, the WJ has a PCI data bus no where all the modules are interconnected and share information both ways on a single data connection whenever the engine is running. This data bus is a 5 volt digital pathway so clean connections and perfect grounds are important.
I haven't tried this myself, but ease the key toward start from on after the warning lights go out. I believe the gauges stay active. They may not. All of the information displayed on the gauges comes from the PCM and not from the individual sensors themselves. If the PCM wasn't powered up on start, the engine wouldn't start. I'm just thinking out loud, as it were, going thru the sequences as I understand them.
If you turn the key on to run and wait until the warning lights go thru their cycle and go off, do the gauges stay active then? If they do, it might be a loose connection in the power plug on the cluster that's causing them to go out after startup. You can try pulling the gauge cluster and clean the connector plug. The entire cluster comes out by removing the trim piece on the bottom of the cluster (It's just 4 spring clips), then there are 4 phillips screws holding it in.
If this doesn't have any effect, come back and we'll talk some more. BTW, the 4.0 is a straight 6.
No luck with the jiggling, with easing off to start the gas, battery and temperature gauges remain for a little bit but the die again, I removed the cluster and inspected it and it looks perfectly fine, I’ll check my ground, i did a cluster test and now my overhead console data is gone, i can still see the direction where I’m going, but my thermometer, gas efficiency, trip miles, miles for empty tank are not present
I don’t think I mentioned this earlier but my key light is algo light up
10-26-2017, 03:38 AM
#6
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Check gauges on
I just went through this recently but my issue included a couple more nuisance conditions which (I think) were resolved by connector mate-cycling, inspection and cleaning of every connector on the PCI Bus. Does your "CHECK GAUGES" idiot-light illuminate too? Are there any other symptoms or DTCs? If the answer to each of my questions is "NO" then jiggle the connectors on the forward facing (firewall) side of the BCM and try it again. If that doesn't work then pull the cluster to cycle the connector mate on the backside of the cluster. Let me know if you have any luck with the jigglies...
10-26-2017, 01:42 PM
#7
CF Veteran
Of course, you must check Ground connections first. The following instruction assumes you have confirmed all grounds are good...
I have attached a .doc file that shows the names, shapes and pin-outs of the connectors named below. I hope this will help.
A "diagnostic junction port" is tape-wrapped to the steering column. It will be out of your line of sight, obscured within the black tape, but it is within your reach - no need to disassemble anything. You will be able to feel it under the tape because of it's shape (it is small and has sharp corners so it will feel lumpy). The approximate location is on the left side of the column, near the bracket that secures/supports the steering column to the dash frame structure. This rectangular white connector has ten (10) cavities. Each of the cavities (1-6, 8 & 9 (omit 7 & 10 as they are unused)) corresponds to a PCI Bus wire and are all jumpered in-common. You must have continuity from/to each and every wire/contact within that group.
You can verify the crimped connections to each of those by using an ohmmeter with one lead connected to pin 2 of the "data link connector" (at top of left kick-panel, near hood release). Disconnect and isolate the battery NEGATIVE terminal before going any further (to avoid accidental airbag deployment). If you should find any discontinuities then you will need to check for broken wires (most are likely to be found at those crimps). If you find broken wires then you may splice it/them to any one of the wires within that group.
I have attached a .doc file that shows the names, shapes and pin-outs of the connectors named below. I hope this will help.
A "diagnostic junction port" is tape-wrapped to the steering column. It will be out of your line of sight, obscured within the black tape, but it is within your reach - no need to disassemble anything. You will be able to feel it under the tape because of it's shape (it is small and has sharp corners so it will feel lumpy). The approximate location is on the left side of the column, near the bracket that secures/supports the steering column to the dash frame structure. This rectangular white connector has ten (10) cavities. Each of the cavities (1-6, 8 & 9 (omit 7 & 10 as they are unused)) corresponds to a PCI Bus wire and are all jumpered in-common. You must have continuity from/to each and every wire/contact within that group.
You can verify the crimped connections to each of those by using an ohmmeter with one lead connected to pin 2 of the "data link connector" (at top of left kick-panel, near hood release). Disconnect and isolate the battery NEGATIVE terminal before going any further (to avoid accidental airbag deployment). If you should find any discontinuities then you will need to check for broken wires (most are likely to be found at those crimps). If you find broken wires then you may splice it/them to any one of the wires within that group.
Last edited by Cherryokee; 10-26-2017 at 02:01 PM. Reason: attached connector pinouts
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10-26-2017, 02:24 PM
#9
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Oh wait-a-minit. Hold-up. Do not perform any of the described steps yet.
I just re-read Post #5, where you said that your "key" light is staying on. Do you hear a chime and then your engine stops running within three seconds after starting the Jeep? This is due to your Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS).
Are you using an original key or is it a replacement key? If you are using a replacement key then you will need to perform a different procedure (to by-pass or disable the SKIS).
I just re-read Post #5, where you said that your "key" light is staying on. Do you hear a chime and then your engine stops running within three seconds after starting the Jeep? This is due to your Sentry Key Immobilizer System (SKIS).
Are you using an original key or is it a replacement key? If you are using a replacement key then you will need to perform a different procedure (to by-pass or disable the SKIS).
04-05-2022, 05:02 PM
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
My 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 straight 6 cyl with 212,000 miles is having similar (but different) problems to this thread. First all gauges work normally, then when driving first the oil pressure gauge will drop to zero and the Check Gauges light/chime happens...this happens when braking for a light, but when RPMs go back up the gauge comes back and all is good. Then, when things start to go bad they really go bad, I start to lose the other gauges (gas, temp, RPM, speedometer, odometer, etc.) and all the warning lights come on. If it gets bad enough, the headliner display (temperature and compass) also goes dark, sometimes the power windows stop working, and all the interior lights come on and stay on. But the Jeep keeps running like there's nothing wrong...it still starts and runs.
To clear everything out, I disconnect the neutral from the battery (which is new BTW) and let it sit for a day or two. Put the neutral back on the battery and everything works just great! Then it's good for a trip or two or three, then we start the cycle all over again - first oil pressure gauge, then all gauges one at a time, then lights and/or power windows.
Any ideas? ground? computer? alternator not providing enough output? poltergeist? Two separate mechanics did some troubleshooting but no answers, and the Jeep dealer wanted $1,200 for 7 hours of just troubleshooting (I declined). Thoughts?
To clear everything out, I disconnect the neutral from the battery (which is new BTW) and let it sit for a day or two. Put the neutral back on the battery and everything works just great! Then it's good for a trip or two or three, then we start the cycle all over again - first oil pressure gauge, then all gauges one at a time, then lights and/or power windows.
Any ideas? ground? computer? alternator not providing enough output? poltergeist? Two separate mechanics did some troubleshooting but no answers, and the Jeep dealer wanted $1,200 for 7 hours of just troubleshooting (I declined). Thoughts?
12-28-2022, 07:37 PM
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My 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 straight 6 cyl with 212,000 miles is having similar (but different) problems to this thread. First all gauges work normally, then when driving first the oil pressure gauge will drop to zero and the Check Gauges light/chime happens...this happens when braking for a light, but when RPMs go back up the gauge comes back and all is good. Then, when things start to go bad they really go bad, I start to lose the other gauges (gas, temp, RPM, speedometer, odometer, etc.) and all the warning lights come on. If it gets bad enough, the headliner display (temperature and compass) also goes dark, sometimes the power windows stop working, and all the interior lights come on and stay on. But the Jeep keeps running like there's nothing wrong...it still starts and runs.
To clear everything out, I disconnect the neutral from the battery (which is new BTW) and let it sit for a day or two. Put the neutral back on the battery and everything works just great! Then it's good for a trip or two or three, then we start the cycle all over again - first oil pressure gauge, then all gauges one at a time, then lights and/or power windows.
Any ideas? ground? computer? alternator not providing enough output? poltergeist? Two separate mechanics did some troubleshooting but no answers, and the Jeep dealer wanted $1,200 for 7 hours of just troubleshooting (I declined). Thoughts?
To clear everything out, I disconnect the neutral from the battery (which is new BTW) and let it sit for a day or two. Put the neutral back on the battery and everything works just great! Then it's good for a trip or two or three, then we start the cycle all over again - first oil pressure gauge, then all gauges one at a time, then lights and/or power windows.
Any ideas? ground? computer? alternator not providing enough output? poltergeist? Two separate mechanics did some troubleshooting but no answers, and the Jeep dealer wanted $1,200 for 7 hours of just troubleshooting (I declined). Thoughts?
Literally exact same is going on with my 00 jeep gc
Did you find a way to fix that?
12-28-2022, 08:04 PM
#13
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Unfortunately no, it's still happening. The only other phenomenon is that occasionally the rear passenger window opens on its own.
I don't understand what the common thread is for all these symptoms, and why they all go away after keeping the battery neutral disconnected for a day or two.
I don't understand what the common thread is for all these symptoms, and why they all go away after keeping the battery neutral disconnected for a day or two.
03-07-2023, 07:52 AM
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I'm curious, do the problems you're having with your 2000 GC start with the oil pressure gauge? I just bought a new one and will be replacing it this coming weekend, maybe that gauge being messed up is doing something to the computer, which is then causing the other problems. It's worth the $30 to try I guess. Will post results once it's changed.