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Gas gushing out under tank - is this common?

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Old Jul 22, 2020 | 08:24 AM
  #31  
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D'oh!
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Old Jul 23, 2020 | 05:58 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dave1123
D'oh!
So I need to find I a new bracket - mine rusted out. It goes around the fuel filler lines & evap container for my 2003 Grand Cherokee - I can give photos if need be! I think the 03-04 might be different than earlier years.

Is this ebay part the same as the one pictured in the Service Manual?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/264360052086



Last edited by ChrisJeep; Jul 23, 2020 at 08:02 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2020 | 03:20 PM
  #33  
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Thanks for all the help!

So I bought a new fuel filler neck, a new Mopar bracket & also ordered a Dorman skidplate for the tank. At 120,000 miles on my 2003 - should I also change the fuel pump for good measure while I have it all apart?

Also does anyone know what size & length of fuel lines I will need to buy? Or what size bolts for the skidplate and/or Vapor Canister bracket? Any other likely things? My friend is a mechanic - but since I am bringing this stuff to him he will want to have everything right then. Otherwise he might just reuse stuff that perhaps would be better swapped out. Here is my rusty old bracket!


Last edited by ChrisJeep; Jul 26, 2020 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Jul 27, 2020 | 08:31 AM
  #34  
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From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
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Okay, do you see where the tube part of the filler is welded into the funnel shaped part and the vent tube is also welded into it? That's where mine rusted thru. Right at the welds. We reused my rubber hoses because they were still in good shape, but I only have the 2, not that bird's nest you've got. My WJ is a 2000 built in 99 and has the canister and pump under the hood, plus it's a 4.0 so there's plenty of room up there.

I've seen filler necks that were powder coated, but they cost twice as much. I don't remember what size the skid plate bolts are, but they are large enough to be used to mount a trailer hitch using the same holes. I'm thinking 1/2". Try fitting a 3/4 socket on them. Be careful taking them out because they can snap very easily and are threaded into weldnuts inside the frame. My trailer hitch is mounted with 5 of the original bolts and one 3/8 with a nut on the back near the bumper. I have a D-ring in the receiver and it was used to ****** me out of a ditch and be towed uphill backwards on a rock covered road recently and I fully expected it to rip off, but it didn't!

I never had good luck with Dorman products and try to avoid buying them. The original "shield" is 1/16" thick and the Mopar "skid plate" is 1/8" inch thick. There are 3/16" skids available for the serious off-roader. I've been told anyone who seriously off-roads a WJ moves the tank or fuel cell into the spare tire well.

As far as the fuel pump is concerned, my pump is original with 257K miles on it and still hits 50 psi in the rail charge cycle. I had some problems with fuel pressure recently that turned out to be a faulty pressure control in the filter. It was intermittent and only happened about every 1000 miles, which was infuriating! I'd park to for 24 hours and it would fire up like there never was a problem. Before anyone says anything, the electrical connector and wires were clean, tight, and not corroded. When it was running like poop, I'd shut it off and have no pressure when I screwed the gauge on, then 20 psi on charge cycle, 30 psi running. Let it sit for a day, BAM, 50 psi on charge cycle and running! WTF?

Last edited by dave1123; Jul 27, 2020 at 08:35 AM.
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Old Jul 27, 2020 | 10:43 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dave1123
Okay, do you see where the tube part of the filler is welded into the funnel shaped part and the vent tube is also welded into it? That's where mine rusted thru. Right at the welds....I've seen filler necks that were powder coated, but they cost twice as much.
Would spray painting the outside help?

As for my rubber hoses and the bird's nest I will likely just try to cut back any ends that look bad - but they do have the whole birds nest for sale. you've got. I plan to try to change the filler neck and the bracket with bird's nest myself. Tgen check what happens with a fill up. I will wait on the Dorman Skid Plate and dropping the tank. See where we are at with these improvements first.

thanks for all the help - now and before!

Cheers
Chris
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Old Jul 27, 2020 | 11:58 AM
  #36  
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My rusty OEM part was sanded and painted. It is holding up fine.




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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 07:21 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by wingless
My rusty OEM part was sanded and painted. It is holding up fine.




Was it leaking?
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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 08:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ChrisJeep
Was it leaking?
No.

The tank was removed for fuel pump replacement. Everything was cleaned and painted before assembly.






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Old Jul 28, 2020 | 09:25 PM
  #39  
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What year is it? Nice photos. Mine looks like many shades of rust.
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Old Jul 29, 2020 | 06:08 AM
  #40  
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Thanks, My '94 ZJ looked like every other prior to cleaning up and painting.
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Old Jul 30, 2020 | 02:30 PM
  #41  
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Success! Put on new filler tube & new bracket for evap canister. Hoses looked good - even old filler tube looks good - keeping that... Will test with water but looks very new...

Anyway - did a fill up - just till it shut off - and no issues at all! Dry as a bone! Thanks for all the help. Will post photos later.

Still plan to get a new skid plate and fuel pump sometime - jeep is at 125,000 miles - feels great!
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 03:13 PM
  #42  
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Spoke too soon, it is leaking again - and this is after not leaking and to add insult to injury, it now has a code for the first time ever. P1494

Last edited by ChrisJeep; Aug 6, 2020 at 04:09 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 06:46 PM
  #43  
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Too bad.

At least the Jeep also knows about the leak.

If the leak is difficult to locate, why not use a Mighty Vac w/ a brake fluid cup to draw a vacuum away from the tank and use a fluid like oil to determine the ingress point(s).
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Old Aug 6, 2020 | 07:48 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by wingless
Too bad.

At least the Jeep also knows about the leak.

If the leak is difficult to locate, why not use a Mighty Vac w/ a brake fluid cup to draw a vacuum away from the tank and use a fluid like oil to determine the ingress point(s).
That sounds too complicated for my mechanic. It is all very rusty- so I just ordered a new skid plate & a new Bosch fuel pump. Going to have my mechanic friend drop the tank and have a look at all the hoses. Since I already had him change the filler tube & the Evap Canister bracket (2003-04) that will hopefully raise the odds of finding the fuel leak.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 02:22 PM
  #45  
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My mechanic thinks it is the fuel tube - part #52100429AD - I don't see how it is - the fuel tube goes from the pump to the filter - wouldn't it then leak all the time? Mine only leaks when tank is overfilled. Today we dropped the tank and changed the Fuel pump, seal and the skid plate - and it seems to gush even more! Now I and getting this fuel tube and having him drop it again! Yikes!
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