Ok, I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0l auto which threw a rod. I found a 2002 wrangler engine and after changing the motor mounts have it installed back in the engine bay. I also transferred the flex plate and metal shroud from the original engine over.

Yesterday I attempted to mate the tranny to the engine which I have 4 of the bolts on the bell housing on and tight. I went to put the flex plate bolts on to the torque converter and the bolts barely reach. After installing one of them the drivetrain refuses to turn.

Any suggestions? It was a pain in the a$$ mating up the tranny (4 hours on my back in the garage). It would appear that I'm going to have to unbolt the tranny and see what's going on but is there anything else I need to do?

Any suggestions would be appreciated as well as any advice moving forward.

BY the way...just bought the jeep (blown) so new to Jeeps and this forum.

Thanks!

 

Your torque convertor probably isn't aligned with the hole in the crankshaft flange. Loosen the bellhousing bolts and shake the convertor around. It should drop into alignment. My only concern is that you didn't crush the pump in the transmission. This usually only happens when the torque convertor isn't aligned with the pump. When properly aligned and the engine bolted up tight, there should be a gap between the convertor and the drive plate and everything should spin freely.

If you're going to pull everything apart, check to make sure the nub on the torque convertor fits into the flexplate and crankshaft. Also, be sure the torque convertor is engaged with the pump. Turn the convertor back and forth quickly while pushing back on it. When it engages, it will drop back.

I've done countless GM transmission swaps and I don't believe Jeeps are any different.

My advise to you, anything with multiple bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN ANY of the bolts up until they are ALL in place! JMO

 

So I took it apart tonight. Nothing looks damaged. Measured the converter in race and the bore on the engine. They appear to be ok.....

Maybe this is a stupid question but is there a difference between blocks on a manual vs an auto?

Looked at the old block and the depth on the crank appears to be much deeper. If that is the case and they do not interchange....damn...I'll have a rather nice 90k engine out of a 2002 wrangler to trade for the correct version.....

 

Welcome to CF. The manual trans engine should have a pilot bearing in the end of the crank for the input shaft of the trans to ride in. The auto trans crank wouldn't have that.

 

So that bearing just needs to come out?

 

That's what I think.

 

Try removing it and see if the convertor fits up flat against the flexplate then.

If you've still got it all apart it'll be easy to see everything now.

 

That has to be it....thanks for the info...:-)

 

You're welcome. I'm just going on past experience from the good old days. Good luck.