powerslave1966

I have this issue where all the power window switches and front and rear wipers can be used even with the key out of the ignition. Even the windshield washer can be used. I really need to fix this as I suspect that the little lights on the window switches are draining my battery if I don't disconnect it overnight and I don't wanna wreck the computer! I got one of the haynes manuals but it doesn't tell me what I want to know (or maybe i'm not looking in the right place). I've searched the forum but did not find anything either. What is the relay/relays location on the 96 ZJ 4.0 for these particular components? I want to start there before I start taking the ignition switch apart, thanks guys!!!

powerslave1966

Anybody???

4.3L XJ

There are no relays for the power windows. They have a fuse and the switches run them directly.

5-90

Oddly, I'm addressing the flipside of this on JeepForum (same subject, but there will be some small changes.)

Since you're going to have a Chrysler column, the key positions themselves are different - "OFF/LOCK - ACC - RUN - START."

Sounds to me like you're having a fault in the keyswitch (which may or may not be where the key proper is mounted - I know it's not there on a GM column, it's coupled by an operating rod to the lock. The electric bit is down by the firewall atop the column,) and the "OFF/LOCK" position isn't turning everything OFF like it's supposed to. Since you're saying the power windows still work, it's probably reasonable to suspect that the switch is sticking with the same circuits powered as would be in RUN (essentially all of them,) and that will get hairy fast if you don't fix it.

To test, get a "bump" switch - the one you'd use to kick the starter motor over from underhood. Do not turn on or insert the key, and make sure the transmission is in Park or Neutral. Crank the engine using the bump switch - if you are able to start the engine, you should replace the ignition switch first.

Retest after the switch has been replaced. This is one of the few cases where I'd suggest a "test by substitution" - typically, if there is a wiring fault present, you have larger problems before you! And, given the current loading of the ignition switch, failure of this part is reasonably common.

Fortunately, it's typically relatively inexpensive. Stick to a good brand - I prefer BorgWarner, Standard Motor Parts (SMP, or just plain "Standard") or ACDelco. There's no particular reason you won't be able to get a quality aftermarket part for the thing.

powerslave1966

Will do, thanks for the advice, 5-90!

5-90

I know you can be in a hurry for the answer to a problem like this - but do be patient. None of us knows everything, and you have to wait for one of the guys who can give you advice to come on.

No need to "bump" your thread - it comes up as a "new thread" or a "thread with new activity" whenever someone comes on afterwards anyhow... Besides, it's bad netiquette - and screws with traffic and eats up disk space...

Report back if you still have trouble.