The driver side window suddenly stopped working in my 2000 Grand Cherokee this evening. Fortunately I was home when it quit as it's stuck in the "down" position. I've got plastic over it for the night with hopes of fixing it ASAP. (If it were stuck "up" I probably wouldn't feel the same urgency to fix it.)

I'm sure this is a common problem but a quick search of the GC forms (through page 10 at time of this posting) didn't turn up anything on the issue (not that I saw anyway) and using the "search" option didn't reveal anything immediately either.

Before I get started on fixing this tomorrow, anyone have any experiences they'd care to share? And their solutions? Bad switch? Motor? Fuse? Etc?

Thanks in advance.

PS - all the other windows work from the driver side door switches.

Yes it is most likely your window motor regulator. They have this awesome plastic piece that holds the motor on and over time it gets brittle. Very common problem. Last year in about a 6 month time frame I had to replace all 4 of mine. They kept going out. You can buy replacement assembly's at the big part stores, but unfortunately they run about $100 a piece. Be ready once you fix this one for another to go out.

Pull the door panels then it's about 6 bolts to remove the assembly.

Thanks for sharing your experiences gpXJ, I appreciate it as I'm sure others do and will in the future as well. Sorry that you had them, mind you, but thanks for sharing.

That's what I initially thought as well (the motor regulator). The funny thing is when I first bought this Jeep back in mid-2013, one of the two things that needed fixing was the left rear window... but the first time I gave it a little "help" to go down it did and has worked fine ever since. I tried helping this one "up" but couldn't get much of a grip on it. I don't even know where to begin checking wires and voltages and such, but it sounds like I need to at least get the door panel off and, most likely, replace a motor. I'll keep everyone posted.

Thanks again!

Check wjjeeps.com for instructions on how to remove the door panel.

Had the exact same problem last year; problem was two fold for me! Firstly as you've already been advised, the plastic block thing the cables pass through was broken; and the motor reel was all grooved and cables wouldn't ride smooth! Unfortunately either things are not easy to come by in England, it's currently held up with with a block of wood! Will have to buy a complete unit in time for the better weather,
Good luck with yours

Yes, mine was the motor assembly. I'm assuming that's the case anyways as once I got the door panel off there didn't seem to be any obvious disconnects, etc., and when I swapped the motor assemblies out it worked fine.

A few notes from my experience that may help someone:

1) An extra pair of hands was very valuable. They came in handy when I hooked the door panel connectors up a few times during the process just to verify everything else was still working properly once I got the new motor assembly in. The window itself, all the other windows (this was the driver door), and the mirrors. Plus an extra pair of hands can hold the window glass up and out of the way while still in it's tracks/rubber. That was a big plus for me not having to remove it completely. In retrospect, I probably could have used a piece of cardboard to cover the top of the door (just to keep the tape off the metal and rubber) and use some tape to hold the window up and out of the way.

2) When I picked up the motor assembly they were out of the door panel removal tool. He showed me a picture and it looked basically like a screwdriver with half a washer on the end for inserting and popping the plastic connectors apart. I wound up using an old hammer that's been in the family for 50+ years with square hammer heads on one end and a flat "claw" (like a standard claw hammer but flat) on the other. I used it to start at the bottom and it was reasonably easy going from there. The manual helped to show how many and where to expect them.

3) I was dreading this job but everything was pretty intuitive once I got started. Even the door rod to handle connectors -- pretty clever. If you have the basic instincts to tackle something like this, that and an idea of what you're doing/what to expect (repair manual, etc.), the right tools (I needed a T-25 6-point star socket for the behind the handle screw) and the time to tackle it you shouldn't have any problems. Don't forget an extra pair of hands. (Plus I've read where the dealers charge up to $400 bucks for this).

4) While doing tests along the way to make sure everything still functioned (and I didn't mess up anything in the repair), the door lock switch didn't work fully. It sounded like it worked to unlock but no sound or anything when trying to lock. And I don't remember if the manual door locks actually moved or not when trying to "lock", but I know they didn't when trying to "unlock". The funny thing is the remote worked the locks just fine though. I couldn't find any obvious errors I had made during the repair so all I could do at that point was to carry on. It turns out the lock switch worked fine after the repair was completed and starting the engine though (vacuum system?).

5) When pricing a new motor, the local places had them from $99 (AutoZone) to $130 (Advance). I wound up going with a local NAPA franchise (Florida Bros. in Murfreesboro) for $104 simply because they're true "parts guys" who've been in business at the same location since I can remember. I did find the same thing on-line for about 40 dollars less and had the window died in the fully closed position I would have taken the time to save the money. It was dead in the fully open position and needed to be dealt with ASAP (we're expecting lots of cold, wet weather here). Also, of you have a 2000 model like me, it makes a difference if it was manufactured after May of 2000. Mine was and they cost more for some reason.

One question though -- when I initially got all the door panel connectors apart and the door panel free, and all the electrical connectors (main electrical, mirrors, speaker) were still connected, there was a small white connector free that didn't look like it went anywhere. There was a free connector in the door panel as well of similar size (but clearly different) and the right location but obviously they didn't mate up. Is this just a standard door wiring assembly Jeep used on more than just the Grand Cherokee? And not needed here?

Best wishes and good luck (and patience!) to all who'll deal with this down the road!

Glad you got it fixed. When my first one went out, I pulled the door panel off, pushed the window up and wedged a 2x4 in there to hold it up. Then when I got ready to replace the assembly, blue painters tape works great to hold the window up, and pulls off the window and door without leaving a messy residue to clean up! I wonder if that extra wiring has anything to do with the mirrors, maybe heated/defrost mirrors? I don't recall seeing any extra on my 01 Laredo.

My panel removal tool is a brake "spoon" used for adjusting the star wheel on drum brakes. I hadn't used it in years since everybody has gone to disc brakes, but it came in handy. The best part about it is it's drop forged tough and thin on the ends. One end is straight and the other is curved.

The door switches are all in the "drip" zone under the top of the window when it's open and get wet quite often. I had problems with my wife's Dodge Caravan because of this and ever since, I've put vent shades on all my vehicles. The internal contacts on your lock switch are probably corroded and you needed the extra voltage from the alternator to "burn" thru it.

I have the same problem with the passenger's rear window but it's in the up position and I've been putting it off for 2 years now. Thank you for posting your experience so I'll know what to expect when I get around to doing mine. Mine will go down about 1" but has to be helped up with a hand on either side of the glass while someone else operates the switch.

Yes, the wiring harness is standard for all models of the vehicle IF IT'S HIDDEN and would need to be taken apart to add something. My WJ is a base model without lighted vanity mirrors, yet the wiring is there if I wish to install them. I just haven't found a set in the yards yet. Your extra connector is probably for heated mirrors. I replaced my driver's seat with a Cherokee seat and didn't see wiring for power seats, but they told me they are under the console.

What I find amusing is in my local yard, there is only 1 WJ and it has been stripped of all the good stuff already. That's the vehicle I got my hatch latch out of.

Thanks for the comments guys.

That connector may very well be for heated/defrost mirrors. There's the multi-wire connector coming out of the middle of the door for the main harness for the arm-rest switches and this free one was a white 2-pin connector from the same area. The free connector in the door panel itself was near the main harness (in the panel) as well but was 4 or 5 pin and different configuration (and same male pins). The harness for the power mirror adjustments was separate and near the mirror area. The funny thing is I may very well have heated mirrors and not even know it. I've had this Cherokee since mid-2013 and just found out/discovered a few days ago I had stereo controls on the back of the steering wheel.

Makes sense about the corrosion possibility on the switches. If they ever stop working (or work intermittently) that sounds like the best place to start.

After I called and got local quotes, I went on-line (Google) and found one for $61.45 at A1 Auto. I initially clicked on their $52.95 version and then called their 888 number and talked to a sales guy. He asked the same production date question (post May2000?) and that one was $61.45. I'm looking at the image of it on-line as I type and it appears to be the same build as the new one I installed (which looked different than the one I pulled out, which may be original-original equipment?). Next-day air estimate was $72+ and even 2nd day was $25 or so and with bad weather moving in I just went with a local immediate purchase. So if you're looking to replace that passenger-rear motor one day convenient, online ordering may be the way to go.

A funny something I failed to mention -- when I was calling around getting "price and availability" quotes, I think it was the guy at Advance who asked me "is that crank or powered?"... as he was looking up the power window motor.