Bad shocks would make springs flex worse, and make them noisy.

I'm more concerned about your wheel bearings on rear axle, further in from where you have torn down. The axle shaft should come out (you may need a tool to get it out, and you'll need a new seal when you reinstall it). You need to look for wheel bearing damage on the axle shaft, and also to shine a light in on the wheel bearings, and see if they are blue, chipped, or otherwise damaged. I'm not sure what lube to recommend on them at the moment.

I'll be back and forth- in between appointments.

 

And check the sway bars, how willys44 said. I would do the rear shocks for sure, if you can afford everything right now. I think it's all part of the problem, but the highway driving increasing the problem is indicative of moving components.

 

Well I figured out that the sound is coming from the diff. I had my gf drive it down the road slwly while I creeped in the back and I watched the rear wheels almost lock up everytime shed turn. I have the video that shows it. Now I just need time to take a look in the diff. Maybe a good gear oil change and a friction additive will do the trick.

 

The locking up - Both wheels at once, or one wheel at a time?

 

Friction additive/modifier if it is posi-trac rear

 

flush your rear diff and put better oil in. the gears and clutches may be shot in the rear. we had to do this on our wj

 

Eva I'm not to sure I was loking at whatever side she turned to and the wheel would skip. Where can I get the friction additive? I work at autozone and could get this stuff for cheap (I'm hoping). And how do I tell if my rear end is shot.

 

Don't panic about it being "shot". Just keep working through diagnostic process. You should be able to get friction modifier at Autozone. If not, at Advance or Napa. Make sure it's for gears.

Do you know which rear axle you have?

And were you able to check the wheel bearings while you had brake rotors off? I'm trying to figure if you have wet lube or grease packed bearings.

The skipping- was it a one-time skip, or did it occur at regular intervals if the vehicle was continuing to turn to one side?

 

Almst positive I have a 35 not sure on the gears tho. I'm hoping I have sunday off. I'm going to do the gear oil change. I know my store carries 85-140 for a gear oil. Eva the skipping was like the wheel wanted to keep turning but something wouldn't let it. It wuld go kink kink kink kink. And once again the is only when warm.

 

Please double check if your axle takes the 85W140 or 80W90. Were you going to use the Lucas gear lube? It has friction modifiers already in it. I use the heavy duty oil stabilizer in my engine. I had more choices when I had my shop, but for product lines you can walk into any auto parts store and buy, I like the Lucas best.

What transfer case do you have? If you're off Sunday and draining the rear diff, you may want to go ahead and do the transfer case and get some friction modifier in that too. You're going to have to check which lube it takes.

I'm not 100% sure it's not going to be a wheel bearing issue, but renewing the fluid in the rear diff and transfer case are maintenance items that should be done either way.

 

I have a 249 tc. I'm trying to find out what weight gear oil I need. I've been searching but get like a 100 different weights. So you think I should do the lucas gear oil? And I should probably figure out if I have a lsd before anything right. Thanks for all the help I really mean that. I've been the biggest pain in the @55 ever.

 

Trac-Lock rear diff uses 75w-140 syn with additive .
Spec on the transfer case is Dexron II regardless if Quadratrac or SelectTrac. I would recommend Syn Trans Fluid compatable with that viscosity

 

Do you have any idea if I have a open or limited slip? Cuz I'm ging to buy the stuff tomorrow morning. Is there a place I can see on the cover or axle its self

 

There may be a tag or a plate on the pumpkin (center). I say may, because it tends to get broken or rubbed over the years.

Willys55 - I've been looking at different lube possibilities for the 249, because my GC needs it changed, and a friction modifier in there too. Do you think the Lucas semi-syn atf, which is Mer III/ Dex is okay? Here's the spec sheet- http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media...thetic_atf.pdf and the product info http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...show&headTitle= - Lucas Semi-Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid .

If not, is there a particular product you'd recommend?

 

here is how i found that it was coming from the diff. its a horrible noise

http://s584.photobucket.com/albums/s.../?action=view&
current=baddiffnoise.flv

heres the gears i found nothing wrong