Changed the radiator. coolant went everywhere. won't start
#1
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Changed the radiator. coolant went everywhere. won't start
Sorry for the personal mechanic thread, but i'm stumped
i swapped out the radiator this morning, and proceeded to bleed the system of air. i took the radiator cap off, started the engine and let it idle till just before 210, at which point i killed it. coolant went everywhere inside the engine bay. so i capped the radiator and came back in 15 minutes. when i got back, the overflow tank was empty, which was expected. i topped that off and tried to start the engine.
it will start, but will immediately die. i can keep it running if i gas it though. it's been about 6 hours and it still won't start.
do you think this is just the case of wet electronics, or is there anything i obviously did wrong?
thanks for any advice
edit: 97 JCG
i swapped out the radiator this morning, and proceeded to bleed the system of air. i took the radiator cap off, started the engine and let it idle till just before 210, at which point i killed it. coolant went everywhere inside the engine bay. so i capped the radiator and came back in 15 minutes. when i got back, the overflow tank was empty, which was expected. i topped that off and tried to start the engine.
it will start, but will immediately die. i can keep it running if i gas it though. it's been about 6 hours and it still won't start.
do you think this is just the case of wet electronics, or is there anything i obviously did wrong?
thanks for any advice
edit: 97 JCG
#3
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nope, guage never even peaked 210.
about 2 gallons of coolant, enough to fill the radiator.
throttle body didn't get wet, but the airbox got pretty wet.
8 hours later and it's still doing the same thing. gonna set up a fan over the engine bay and see if it changes tomorrow
about 2 gallons of coolant, enough to fill the radiator.
throttle body didn't get wet, but the airbox got pretty wet.
8 hours later and it's still doing the same thing. gonna set up a fan over the engine bay and see if it changes tomorrow
#6
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Year: 92
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Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by csutton1
won't idle. if i gas it, it runs smooth. but as soon as the throttle closes it shuts off
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#9
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distributor is dry. just checked the IAC, looked fine.
checked all my vacuum lines, they're good
is there a relay for the IAC? anything else i could have damaged?
checked all my vacuum lines, they're good
is there a relay for the IAC? anything else i could have damaged?
#10
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Hey, guys. I'm new to jeeps, but I was thinking coolant could have gotten into the air bleed ports on the throttle body or the mass air flow sensor, if jeeps have one. Somewhere, there is a sensor that compares outside air pressure against manifold pressure. Make sure these are clear, or flush the engine down with water to dilute the coolant and blow off with compressed air.
Also, the best way to bleed air out of the system is to remove the temp guage sender on the thermostat housing before you fill up the system. When coolant starts coming out of the hole, put the sender back in and tighten it down. I've seen engines with petcock valves in the thermostat housing just for that purpose.
What happened to you is there wasn't enough coolant in the block and when you shut it off, coolant ran into the motor and flashed to steam.
Hope I was helpful.
Also, the best way to bleed air out of the system is to remove the temp guage sender on the thermostat housing before you fill up the system. When coolant starts coming out of the hole, put the sender back in and tighten it down. I've seen engines with petcock valves in the thermostat housing just for that purpose.
What happened to you is there wasn't enough coolant in the block and when you shut it off, coolant ran into the motor and flashed to steam.
Hope I was helpful.
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Hey, guys. I'm new to jeeps, but I was thinking coolant could have gotten into the air bleed ports on the throttle body or the mass air flow sensor, if jeeps have one. Somewhere, there is a sensor that compares outside air pressure against manifold pressure. Make sure these are clear, or flush the engine down with water to dilute the coolant and blow off with compressed air.
Also, the best way to bleed air out of the system is to remove the temp guage sender on the thermostat housing before you fill up the system. When coolant starts coming out of the hole, put the sender back in and tighten it down. I've seen engines with petcock valves in the thermostat housing just for that purpose.
What happened to you is there wasn't enough coolant in the block and when you shut it off, coolant ran into the motor and flashed to steam.
Hope I was helpful.
Also, the best way to bleed air out of the system is to remove the temp guage sender on the thermostat housing before you fill up the system. When coolant starts coming out of the hole, put the sender back in and tighten it down. I've seen engines with petcock valves in the thermostat housing just for that purpose.
What happened to you is there wasn't enough coolant in the block and when you shut it off, coolant ran into the motor and flashed to steam.
Hope I was helpful.
i checked the MAP sensor, no vacuum lines and such. i'll check the throttle body here in a min.
thanks for the advice on the bleeding the system, i'll do that when i figure out what the idle problem is
#12
Old fart with a wrench
Hey, Dude. Check your private messages. I'm going to sleep for a while, been up all night.
Last edited by dave1123; 01-03-2011 at 06:44 AM.
#13
Guys I need some help. I've posted in other threads but no help. If any of you have a possible answer I'd really appreciate it since my 95 JGC is my daily driver and is currently sitting in the driveway unable to move.
I changed my rad due to a leak...a serious one. I charged the battery as it died for some reason during the install then I started it and it ran fine until i put it in gear and it stalled. Tried to start it again and it just turned over but didn't run. 20 Minutes later it started again. Idled fine but as soon as i put it in gear....dead. Now I've got it so when i put it in gear it bogs right down to 200 rpm but then picks up to about 500 on it's own without me touching the gas peddle. It's almost like its slowly healing itself. Still not going to drive it because im afraid it will stall in an intersection. What options do i have here? I've heard PCM, crank sensor, etc but if someone out there has had a similar problem and you have a fix for me i sure could use it right now...is it possible my spark plugs mught be wet from coolant sprayin around under the hood?
I changed my rad due to a leak...a serious one. I charged the battery as it died for some reason during the install then I started it and it ran fine until i put it in gear and it stalled. Tried to start it again and it just turned over but didn't run. 20 Minutes later it started again. Idled fine but as soon as i put it in gear....dead. Now I've got it so when i put it in gear it bogs right down to 200 rpm but then picks up to about 500 on it's own without me touching the gas peddle. It's almost like its slowly healing itself. Still not going to drive it because im afraid it will stall in an intersection. What options do i have here? I've heard PCM, crank sensor, etc but if someone out there has had a similar problem and you have a fix for me i sure could use it right now...is it possible my spark plugs mught be wet from coolant sprayin around under the hood?
#14
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that is freakin wierd i had a very similar problem with my coolant and inability to start. i dont think we have the same problem though
#15
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just guna throw this out there but the problems you guys are listing could be related to the coolant temp sensor thats right near the water outlet, coulda got splashed and wont read right maybe. that lil sensor has a lot to do with warm up idle...