A/C Evaporator Core repair
09-04-2013, 10:59 PM
#931
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I need help. I just got roped into replacing the heater core and evaporator core on my In-Laws 98 or 2000 (can't remember) Cherokee. I have never done much work on Jeep interiors. Any pointers with the airbags or dash removal would be a great help. I am starting the project in the early morning. Wish me luck. I do have experience with A/C work but like I said, never the inside of a Cherokee.
09-05-2013, 01:01 AM
#932
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: York, PA
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey everyone requesting the information,
Since it is incredibly pointless to have a 60+ page thread for people to simply request the file from the original owner, allow me to share a direct link to it for you all. This madness has to end, especially since ole blue is no longer responding. I've uploaded it to my SkyDrive for ease of access to you.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...AClPfWT3zMTNl4
Enjoy!
Since it is incredibly pointless to have a 60+ page thread for people to simply request the file from the original owner, allow me to share a direct link to it for you all. This madness has to end, especially since ole blue is no longer responding. I've uploaded it to my SkyDrive for ease of access to you.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...AClPfWT3zMTNl4
Enjoy!
09-05-2013, 06:15 AM
#933
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Acworth, GA
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Year: 1996 & 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thank you for posting that link, as well as those who replied offering this information to me prior to my attempt at performing this procedure last weekend. I said "attempt" because once everything was back in enough to test the system, My AC blows only through the defroster vent! I checked all the lines and they are plugged back to their respective ports which I marked when taking them off. The air does switch to the floor when selecting heat, but the AC does not blow through the proper vents. I was able to manually move the the linkage I thought controlled the redirect door by reaching a long screwdriver under the dash, but not enough to fully move 100% of the air flow through the dash vents. Guess I have to go back in. It will go faster now, unless more plastic parts crack or break and I have to stop long enough to repair or replace them. The only thing I can figure is that maybe a door was stuck in the wrong position when reassembling the climate control box. If anyone else has had this problem or knows of a fix, please let me know. At least my daughter has some small relief from the summer heat coming through the defroster vents, at least enough to make it a little more bearable this week. Thanks!
09-05-2013, 10:47 AM
#935
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: York, PA
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thank you for posting that link, as well as those who replied offering this information to me prior to my attempt at performing this procedure last weekend. I said "attempt" because once everything was back in enough to test the system, My AC blows only through the defroster vent! I checked all the lines and they are plugged back to their respective ports which I marked when taking them off. The air does switch to the floor when selecting heat, but the AC does not blow through the proper vents. I was able to manually move the the linkage I thought controlled the redirect door by reaching a long screwdriver under the dash, but not enough to fully move 100% of the air flow through the dash vents. Guess I have to go back in. It will go faster now, unless more plastic parts crack or break and I have to stop long enough to repair or replace them. The only thing I can figure is that maybe a door was stuck in the wrong position when reassembling the climate control box. If anyone else has had this problem or knows of a fix, please let me know. At least my daughter has some small relief from the summer heat coming through the defroster vents, at least enough to make it a little more bearable this week. Thanks!
As for your defroster vent issue, if it worked fine before, it's more than likely that something wasn't right when you put it back together. It sounds like your vacuum lines are good, so probably an issue with the blend door.
Did you run into any broken plastic, etc.? Did you order new foam, or come up with your own?
09-06-2013, 04:42 PM
#936
Senior Member
99 evap problems
hey ol"blue, you happen to still be givin out those instructions? taken my 99 xj to the shop 3 times now, injected with dye to try and find the a/c leak....and nothin....finally they suggested the evap may be bad so i figured what the heck, might as well check myself! any help would be greatly appreciated!
Edit - Thanks PocketsEmpty, jsut saw ur post, got it, thanks!
Edit - Thanks PocketsEmpty, jsut saw ur post, got it, thanks!
Last edited by Chex_Mex; 09-06-2013 at 04:49 PM.
09-23-2013, 03:36 PM
#938
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09-24-2013, 10:01 AM
#939
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: middleburg fl
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
fwiw, to all that are hesitant on doing this, its really not all that hard,im over 300 lbs and almost 55 yrs old i have never done anything this involved before, and i pulled it off in two 4 hour sessions one was removal and the other reinstall. the biggest thing i would say is to take the seats out it makes it way easier to pull the wiring harness under the dash. and dont forget the hidden screw on the hvac box thats pretty hard to see located down low on the firewall behind the engine.(i didnt see it and just kept yanking on the box till it broke out that part of the box) the biggest problem i had was using those damn disconnects for the a/c lines putting them back togeather was the worst for me. and to those that asked i bought the foam seals at the dealer for about 45 dollars
09-27-2013, 09:02 AM
#940
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fwiw, to all that are hesitant on doing this, its really not all that hard,im over 300 lbs and almost 55 yrs old i have never done anything this involved before, and i pulled it off in two 4 hour sessions one was removal and the other reinstall. the biggest thing i would say is to take the seats out it makes it way easier to pull the wiring harness under the dash. and dont forget the hidden screw on the hvac box thats pretty hard to see located down low on the firewall behind the engine.(i didnt see it and just kept yanking on the box till it broke out that part of the box) the biggest problem i had was using those damn disconnects for the a/c lines putting them back togeather was the worst for me. and to those that asked i bought the foam seals at the dealer for about 45 dollars
Does anyone have a list of needed materials and tools for this project?
I am working out of my parents barebones vacation home in Tucson...
11-16-2013, 12:26 AM
#942
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Ok for all those that want to do this, don't over think it.
It's a little time consuming yes, but not all that hard.
Before I even start let me get somethings out of the way. I am not doing a full write up on this, I am piggybacking off of this write up (pretty solid for this)
https://skydrive.live.com/view.aspx?...AClPfWT3zMTNl4
First from the looks of it he bought a pretty good heater core. I went with a cheaper version and you can see the quality difference. OEM is solid copper. So keep this in mind. Also the same goes for the evap core. The cheaper ones do not come with all the foam that the stock one has. So if you do get a cheaper one be prepared to make something to support the evap core and prevent it from rubbing on the heater box.
On the same note, he talks about having an a/c disconnect tool. I had the scissor style ones, and it did not work for this for some reason. I ended up picking up the plastic ones from autozone. (They were a round ones that clip over the connection and you pull back on it to disengage the clip. They come four in a pack.)
This took a fair amount of force.
There are two connections running into the evap core. The one is a silver line, it was pretty straight forward and came right out. The other one (the black line that runs to the canister) look at the bottom and remove the bracket that hold it on. It will make it much easier to grip and pull off.
He removed alot more then you might really need to so don't let the pictures of the steering wheel without an airbag scare you. I chose to leave my seats in, just for the simple fact that I chose to unbolt the steering column and lay it on the seat instead of removing the whole thing. (Just remove the connections and then take the two nuts off the studs and it should drop right in your lap.) Also after your steering column is unbolted try not to mess with the height adjustment lever other then taking the cable off. When I tried to reinstall it moved and I had to reset it to get it back one the studs.
Another thing, there are three big connecters under the d/s dash. Two closer to your door and one by the transmission hump. The one by the transmission hump was pretty easy, just unbolted it (the bolt does not come all the way out just keep going until there is no resistance) and it pulled right out. The ones on the right took me awhile. First I did not disconnect the that would be closer to you. (I got the closer to the firewall pretty easy.) I ended up not pulling the one and was able to swing the dash out far enough to get the heater box out. I went back later and pulled it just to see if I could. It took more force then I would like to put on an electrical connector. Other then that It was pretty much straight forward. Don't go pulling everything you see. More if it can actually stay on the dash if you just disconnect it.
If yours is like mine I was surprised to see just how much crap was inside of my heater box. Pine needles and all sorts of other crap. I plan on installing some sort of filter, nothing major just maybe ziptie some thin furnace air filter stuff from home depot. So have some paper towel to wipe down the inside.
It is also a good idea to look at the vacuum system on the heater box. Even though most vacuum problems start at the vacuum canisters in the XJ's (right behind the p/s bumper) it still help to know what each of the wire control. Or if your like me and want to install a choke cable to get manual control over my recirc door.
On a final note, make sure you burp your system good. I did it once when I put it all back together. I just opened the radiator cap and let it run for a while and got a good amount of air bubble up. But after a day or so I realize my heat was actually getting worse. So what I did was I parked my XJ on a hill, with the radiator being the highest point in the cooling system. I let the jeep cool all the way down (I went back out 2 hrs later) and I opened the radiator cap again. This may sound stupid but I just rocked my jeep with the radiator cap off (not running) and got a lot more air then I expected. I then started it and let it run ( I squeezed my upper rad line to get a few more out.) Let it heat up all the way (mines 195 but it will depend on the thermostat you have) it will boil over a bit, but when the thermostat open it should suck right down. Then add more fluid. If anyone has an easier way to burp the system please let me know. The one thing that I forgot to mention and I forgot to do was fill the heater core before reconnecting it. Real easy just take the two heater core lines and hold them up. Dump antifreeze down one until it comes out the other, and try to reconnect without loosing to much. It will help push some of the air out. If someone has an easier way please pm me so I know. I am planning to burp it again this weekend just to make sure. As said this is not a how-to or write up just hopefully some helpful tip while doing it. The write up above it pretty straight forward and was a big help. Just wished I followed it a little better. Now onto my wire loom for my dim headlights.
It's a little time consuming yes, but not all that hard.
Before I even start let me get somethings out of the way. I am not doing a full write up on this, I am piggybacking off of this write up (pretty solid for this)
https://skydrive.live.com/view.aspx?...AClPfWT3zMTNl4
First from the looks of it he bought a pretty good heater core. I went with a cheaper version and you can see the quality difference. OEM is solid copper. So keep this in mind. Also the same goes for the evap core. The cheaper ones do not come with all the foam that the stock one has. So if you do get a cheaper one be prepared to make something to support the evap core and prevent it from rubbing on the heater box.
On the same note, he talks about having an a/c disconnect tool. I had the scissor style ones, and it did not work for this for some reason. I ended up picking up the plastic ones from autozone. (They were a round ones that clip over the connection and you pull back on it to disengage the clip. They come four in a pack.)
This took a fair amount of force.
There are two connections running into the evap core. The one is a silver line, it was pretty straight forward and came right out. The other one (the black line that runs to the canister) look at the bottom and remove the bracket that hold it on. It will make it much easier to grip and pull off.
He removed alot more then you might really need to so don't let the pictures of the steering wheel without an airbag scare you. I chose to leave my seats in, just for the simple fact that I chose to unbolt the steering column and lay it on the seat instead of removing the whole thing. (Just remove the connections and then take the two nuts off the studs and it should drop right in your lap.) Also after your steering column is unbolted try not to mess with the height adjustment lever other then taking the cable off. When I tried to reinstall it moved and I had to reset it to get it back one the studs.
Another thing, there are three big connecters under the d/s dash. Two closer to your door and one by the transmission hump. The one by the transmission hump was pretty easy, just unbolted it (the bolt does not come all the way out just keep going until there is no resistance) and it pulled right out. The ones on the right took me awhile. First I did not disconnect the that would be closer to you. (I got the closer to the firewall pretty easy.) I ended up not pulling the one and was able to swing the dash out far enough to get the heater box out. I went back later and pulled it just to see if I could. It took more force then I would like to put on an electrical connector. Other then that It was pretty much straight forward. Don't go pulling everything you see. More if it can actually stay on the dash if you just disconnect it.
If yours is like mine I was surprised to see just how much crap was inside of my heater box. Pine needles and all sorts of other crap. I plan on installing some sort of filter, nothing major just maybe ziptie some thin furnace air filter stuff from home depot. So have some paper towel to wipe down the inside.
It is also a good idea to look at the vacuum system on the heater box. Even though most vacuum problems start at the vacuum canisters in the XJ's (right behind the p/s bumper) it still help to know what each of the wire control. Or if your like me and want to install a choke cable to get manual control over my recirc door.
On a final note, make sure you burp your system good. I did it once when I put it all back together. I just opened the radiator cap and let it run for a while and got a good amount of air bubble up. But after a day or so I realize my heat was actually getting worse. So what I did was I parked my XJ on a hill, with the radiator being the highest point in the cooling system. I let the jeep cool all the way down (I went back out 2 hrs later) and I opened the radiator cap again. This may sound stupid but I just rocked my jeep with the radiator cap off (not running) and got a lot more air then I expected. I then started it and let it run ( I squeezed my upper rad line to get a few more out.) Let it heat up all the way (mines 195 but it will depend on the thermostat you have) it will boil over a bit, but when the thermostat open it should suck right down. Then add more fluid. If anyone has an easier way to burp the system please let me know. The one thing that I forgot to mention and I forgot to do was fill the heater core before reconnecting it. Real easy just take the two heater core lines and hold them up. Dump antifreeze down one until it comes out the other, and try to reconnect without loosing to much. It will help push some of the air out. If someone has an easier way please pm me so I know. I am planning to burp it again this weekend just to make sure. As said this is not a how-to or write up just hopefully some helpful tip while doing it. The write up above it pretty straight forward and was a big help. Just wished I followed it a little better. Now onto my wire loom for my dim headlights.
01-25-2014, 04:44 PM
#943
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
I've been away too long to answer this thread, and I'm sorry for that. But at least someone else has stepped in to take over, and thanks for that.
This write up from a '98 XJ has pics, and is posted above. >->http://buckeyejeeps.com/stuff/XJEvapReplacement.pdf
Go here for free info on most XJ's & a couple years of the ZJ: >->http://www.cherokeetech.com/fsm/
Please read the help posted above threads before just posting blindly.
And Welcome to all the new members.
Dan
This write up from a '98 XJ has pics, and is posted above. >->http://buckeyejeeps.com/stuff/XJEvapReplacement.pdf
Go here for free info on most XJ's & a couple years of the ZJ: >->http://www.cherokeetech.com/fsm/
Please read the help posted above threads before just posting blindly.
And Welcome to all the new members.
Dan
05-28-2014, 07:55 PM
#944
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