Ok I've change u Joints, hub assembly's and looked at the differential no metal in diff. Also I have change pads and calipers and had rotors turned. Still heard it after all that so I put it up on jack stands and ran it. What I discovered was that my calipers were jumping and they are gripping just enough to get bound and hit the pads from top to bottom. But you can turn wheel by hand so they are loose enough for wheel to turn. With rotors turned and new pads and caliper what can I check . This is starting to **** me off. Please help
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Both wheels do it, you only hear it at low speeds. What could be causing my calipers to jump like that, I've heard of brake hoses, but do you think both at the same time. Is there some kind of pressure mechanism other than the master cylinder I should be looking at.........

I really need someone with some brake knowledge for I'm just the average JO driver.....

 

You could have a sticking piston but I wouldn't think on both sides. Sounds like your rotors are still warped, I will not turn rotors I will only buy new they don't cost that much for new and the piece of mind is priceless. Will this happen with the rims off? Can you get the caliper off easly or do you have to pry it off? The brakes should "drag" on the rotor just a bit.

 

Dwinthrup the only problem Im having with calling it warped rotors is for example. It can be doing it and you can park for an hour. Then drive it again and everything is flawless. At least for about the first 10 to 15 minute and its back. Like something is heating up or like pressure in brake system is changing. Oh and it only happen at very low speeds. No wheel wobble shaking of any kind at high speeds. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Could it be poor vacuum to the master cylinder?

 

This is it. Whoever turned them didn't do a good job. Go get some new ones.

 

From the experience I've had warped rotors always vibrate, not just when warm.

As for turning them, I've always understood its never a good idea. If they warped it is due to weak spots and those will always be there, or the warping creates the weak spots.

 

are the rotors tyoo thin sounds like a heat problem

 

A good quality place wouldn't turn down more then min thickness, not I said good.
WHen lightly pressing on the brake pedel driving down the road will it pulse? what about hard braking I mean 60-0 in only a few seconds?
When is the last time you bleed you brakes? If it's been awhile I would bleed them to get the old bunt fluid out.

 

Did you replace the flex lines? They might be collapsing holding pressure in the caliper

 

It doesn't pulse at all. 60-0 hard braking is fine no shimmy. Every time I bleed them it is fine no noises until the next day that is why I'm leanning more toward pressure than rotors.????

No I haven't changed my flex lines could they both be going bad at the same time?

 

Finally finally finally its fixed. This weekend I replaced flex lines and the rotors. First try was the flex lines, no such luck. Then I went ahead and replaced the rotors although the autoparts store assured me their machine would have smoothed out the rotors if they were warped. My truck wasn't showing any other symptoms of your typical warped rotor. But you can't argue with results, it's been three days and no noise since. So thanks to all the members who helped, it is much appreciated. Now I can take a breath!!!
And to all in the future, never , I repeat never turn rotors always buy new, I will. \\
Thanks again

 

Great advice. Once the metal's construction has been compromised, it'll never be the same again.

 

Hand torque the wheels any time you remove and replace them, that will help keep the rotors true. You get somebody with a heavy finger on the air gun at the local tire shop, you'll have rotors warping after a very short time.

 

I spoke to soon!! It was great for three days and it slowly came back. Now Its just as bad. Could it be a pressure problem or abs . What gets me is 3 day of nothing.

 

Dang, that really blows.

And you are sure the calipers aren't sticking?