Another Misfiring thread
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Another Misfiring thread
I've had this issue for awhile now and cant seem to get it taken care of. It's throwing codes for misfires and is stumbling badly while at idle or in drive or reverse without the gas pressed. As soon as it's pressed you cant feel it. it has new coils, new plugs, I cleaned the throttle body, the throttle position sensor as well as changing the camshaft position sensor today. That seemed to help for a few mins but after a few re-starts and a trip to the store, bam, it does it again. What am I missing? Any suggestions?
#2
Old fart with a wrench
Check all your vacuum hoses for cracks, especially the MAP sensor. My trick is to use an UNLIT propane torch with the valve just cracked open and play it around the suspect hoses and gaskets. If there is a leak, it will pull in the gas and speed up the engine.
#3
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Im more than willing to try anything at this point, but why would it run smooth after I changed the camshaft postion sensor then go back to misfiring again? It seems like everytime I remove the battery it resets and is smooth for a drive or two then the issue starts again
#4
Old fart with a wrench
The only thing I can tell you is when you disconnect the battery, the PCM looses all it's stored data about your driving habits and relies on factory pre-programmed info on it's chip. After a while, the PCM relearns your power demands and driving style. It uses data from all the sensors to set up these parameters in it's memory. It seems to be getting mixed signals from somewhere.
#5
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The only thing I can tell you is when you disconnect the battery, the PCM looses all it's stored data about your driving habits and relies on factory pre-programmed info on it's chip. After a while, the PCM relearns your power demands and driving style. It uses data from all the sensors to set up these parameters in it's memory. It seems to be getting mixed signals from somewhere.
#7
Old fart with a wrench
Because you want the gas, not the flame, idiot! I am stunned you had to ask that question.
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#8
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Well I tried a vacuum test but used brake parts cleaner, didn't have any change in idle that I found. It is however now only throwing one code for the last day or two, rather than the four I think it was before. Now its only a misfire code for cylinder one.
#9
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: v8
No clue then. I am here for the info.
The problem with using brake cleaner is that it's low volatility compared to gas. The gas will not "persist" in one place, and can allow you to pinpoint an exact spot. Also, the reaction is closer to instant "on/off" when applied to a leak.
Also, brake cleaner might degrade the rubber and plastics of the underhood components. Propane will not.
(the above is not directed at you OP, but to those who are just learning this stuff and have found this page through the googles and such).
The problem with using brake cleaner is that it's low volatility compared to gas. The gas will not "persist" in one place, and can allow you to pinpoint an exact spot. Also, the reaction is closer to instant "on/off" when applied to a leak.
Also, brake cleaner might degrade the rubber and plastics of the underhood components. Propane will not.
(the above is not directed at you OP, but to those who are just learning this stuff and have found this page through the googles and such).
#10
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No clue then. I am here for the info.
The problem with using brake cleaner is that it's low volatility compared to gas. The gas will not "persist" in one place, and can allow you to pinpoint an exact spot. Also, the reaction is closer to instant "on/off" when applied to a leak.
Also, brake cleaner might degrade the rubber and plastics of the underhood components. Propane will not.
(the above is not directed at you OP, but to those who are just learning this stuff and have found this page through the googles and such).
The problem with using brake cleaner is that it's low volatility compared to gas. The gas will not "persist" in one place, and can allow you to pinpoint an exact spot. Also, the reaction is closer to instant "on/off" when applied to a leak.
Also, brake cleaner might degrade the rubber and plastics of the underhood components. Propane will not.
(the above is not directed at you OP, but to those who are just learning this stuff and have found this page through the googles and such).
#11
Old fart with a wrench
I hate asking this question, but WHAT YEAR 4.0 are we talking about? I only got the "4.0" from your signature, and are we talking about a Cherokee or a Grand Cherokee? Also, your location is important so we know what kind of environment this problem is occurring in.
Sorry, but I get so wound up when I have to pry the simplest info out of a poster. As you can tell, I'm a good diagnostician but lack good customer relations qualities.
Sorry, but I get so wound up when I have to pry the simplest info out of a poster. As you can tell, I'm a good diagnostician but lack good customer relations qualities.
#12
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Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I hate asking this question, but WHAT YEAR 4.0 are we talking about? I only got the "4.0" from your signature, and are we talking about a Cherokee or a Grand Cherokee? Also, your location is important so we know what kind of environment this problem is occurring in.
Sorry, but I get so wound up when I have to pry the simplest info out of a poster. As you can tell, I'm a good diagnostician but lack good customer relations qualities.
Sorry, but I get so wound up when I have to pry the simplest info out of a poster. As you can tell, I'm a good diagnostician but lack good customer relations qualities.
#13
Old fart with a wrench
Sorry I went off on you. You DID have your location on there, I just didn't see it. Most people just put "Cherokee" in their signature and it sets me off on a tirade. The XJ is a totally different animal in some respects.
You do realize the coil pack on your WJ is an expensive item, don't you? You might want to check the spark plug insulator boots behind the coil pack for carbon tracking and deterioration. I bought a complete Denso set of 6 boots and springs for $12.77 from rockauto.com. That coil pack is $60 to $125.
You do realize the coil pack on your WJ is an expensive item, don't you? You might want to check the spark plug insulator boots behind the coil pack for carbon tracking and deterioration. I bought a complete Denso set of 6 boots and springs for $12.77 from rockauto.com. That coil pack is $60 to $125.
#14
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Model: Cherokee
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Sorry I went off on you. You DID have your location on there, I just didn't see it. Most people just put "Cherokee" in their signature and it sets me off on a tirade. The XJ is a totally different animal in some respects.
You do realize the coil pack on your WJ is an expensive item, don't you? You might want to check the spark plug insulator boots behind the coil pack for carbon tracking and deterioration. I bought a complete Denso set of 6 boots and springs for $12.77 from rockauto.com. That coil pack is $60 to $125.
You do realize the coil pack on your WJ is an expensive item, don't you? You might want to check the spark plug insulator boots behind the coil pack for carbon tracking and deterioration. I bought a complete Denso set of 6 boots and springs for $12.77 from rockauto.com. That coil pack is $60 to $125.
#15
Old fart with a wrench
Okay, now that I know what vehicle you've got, go to wjjeeps.com and learn about it. There's enough info there to fry your brain!