Tisha

Okay guys, this will be my last post before i take this pos MIA. It's a 98 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4x4 v6. It started off as just dying randomly. It would die once or twice but i'd have to sit and wait like 15 minutes before it'd start. So we replaced the coil. Well it done fine for 2 days then it wouldn't start at all so we replaced the fuel pump. It did fine for about a month then it would die only when i ran the a/c. So i would just drive with a/c off. Well then it didn't matter if the a/c was on or not it'd die. We replaced the spark plugs and wires ( cause it seemed like it wasn't wanting to start too great) still stalls. Then i backed out the 2 screws on the pcm, still stalled. I changed the air filter, still stalled. Then we changed the crankshaft position sensor, still stalled. So today my check engine light came out and i went and borrowed one of those code reader things and got code p0123 ( tps) and p0108 ( map sensor) replaced both, no check engine light but still dies. So we took the iac valve off and it was bad nasty and rusty so we replaced it. Now it idles and runs ALOT better but still dies! I'm so frustrated right now you have no idea. So is there anything at all i can try before i have to break down and get ***** raped by a machanic?.... People have said try the maf sensor and fuel filter but my model jeep has neither.

Thegreenmachine

Mine does the same thing. I replaced the PCM and I'm hoping that fixed it.

Tisha

Well please let me know. Replacing the computer and engine is the only thing left I haven't done my only problem is if I replace the computer and it still dies I'm gonna be mad as hell

Jax04

Im in on this, im new here, came across this site while searching. I own a 98 with a 4.0 and i replaced the crank shaft sensor and it still dies.

Ive noticed it only really does it on very wet days. Randomly dies and sometimes very hard to start after it dies, then magically itll just fire right up.

Ive come across some other threads stating to check out the IAC and the PCV. Ill look into those tonight.

jeep-e

Mine recently had similar symptoms as the op. Did lots of searching & some testing/cleaning of various componets. Then tried securing the connections @ pcm as suggested by a thread. Its a cheap fix/try ( I used a metal hose clamp $2) search here & else where & you can see the various methods people used. Cleaned & lubed my connections before clamping horizontialy. Fingers crossed, not one hiccup since. Start w/ the cheap easy first, then test things before just guessing, as one member on here says. It will save you time, $, & grief. good luck & keep us posted.

Tisha

Jax- that's how mine started out but not on rainy days, it didn't matter. Now here I am out of $700 and still dying.

Zj heep

Dose it have a fuel pressure regulator ?

ol"blue

Have you tried testing/replacing the Cam Position Sensor in the distributor? When bad or a cheap brand, they can cause the intermittent/random stalling issues described above.
To test it:
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
The camshaft position sensor is located in the distributor
(Fig. 13) on all engines.
To perform a complete test of this sensor and its
circuitry, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics
Procedures service manual. To test the sensor
only, refer to the following:
For this test, an analog (non-digital) voltmeter
is needed. Do not remove the distributor connector
from the distributor. Using small paper clips,
insert them into the backside of the distributor wire
harness connector to make contact with the terminals.
Be sure that the connector is not damaged
when inserting the paper clips. Attach voltmeter
leads to these paper clips.
(1) Connect the positive (+) voltmeter lead into the
sensor output wire. This is at done the distributor
wire harness connector. For wire identification, refer
to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(2) Connect the negative (-) voltmeter lead into the
ground wire. For wire identification, refer to Group
8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(3) Set the voltmeter to the 15 Volt DC scale.
(4) 5.2L/5.9L Engines: Remove distributor cap
from distributor (two screws). Rotate (crank) the
engine until the distributor rotor is pointed towards
the rear of vehicle. The movable pulse ring should
now be within the sensor pickup.
(5) 4.0L Engine: Remove distributor cap from
distributor (two screws). Rotate (crank) the engine
until the distributor rotor is pointed to approximately
the 11 o’clock position. The movable pulse ring
should now be within the sensor pickup.
(6) Turn ignition key to ON position. Voltmeter
should read approximately 5.0 volts.
(7) If voltage is not present, check the voltmeter
leads for a good connection.
(8) If voltage is still not present, check for voltage
at the supply wire. For wire identification, refer to
Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(9) If 5 volts is not present at supply wire, check
for voltage at PCM 32-way connector (cavity A-17).
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring for location of connector/
terminal. Leave the PCM connector connected for
this test.
(10) If voltage is still not present, perform vehicle
test using the DRB scan tool.
(11) If voltage is present at cavity A-17, but not at
the supply wire:
(a) Check continuity between the supply wire.
This is checked between the distributor connector
and cavity A-17 at the PCM. If continuity is not
present, repair the harness as necessary.
(b) Check for continuity between the camshaft
position sensor output wire and cavity A-18 at the
PCM. If continuity is not present, repair the harness
as necessary.
(c) Check for continuity between the ground circuit
wire at the distributor connector and ground.
If continuity is not present, repair the harness as
necessary.
(12) While observing the voltmeter, crank the
engine with ignition switch. The voltmeter needle
should fluctuate between 0 and 5 volts while the
engine is cranking. This verifies that the camshaft
position sensor in the distributor is operating properly
and a sync pulse signal is being generated.
If sync pulse signal is not present, replacement of
the camshaft position sensor is necessary.

Jax04

Oddly enough, last night, after now changing the Ignition coil, crank sensor, IAC module, cleaned the rotor up and now, as of last night, backed the 2 screws out of the computer real close to a 1/4".

It STILL acts up.

Now, something i noticed, last night, while it did this, the dash would go off, i mean, no lights on teh dash or anything, like someone just disconnected the battery and put it back on. Very weird.

Im no electrical genius, but this is getting old.

while its "dying" their is NO response from anything i do, pedal, switches, anything. Im wondering if their is a loose ground somewhere thats making this do this. And maybe thats why it took so long to get a check engine light. Im lost, my wife is scared to drive her truck. Im pulling my hair out.

Jax04

well i just went out their and wiggled all 3 connectors going into the computer with the truck running, it never acted funny, But, all three of them "clicked" once when i pushed on them, so maybe after i backed the screws out last night, i didnt get them in their good and tight.

We shall see. I will continue to check back with updates as they come. After she drives it tomorrow, ill know a little more.

Jax04

Well she got up this morning and apparently couldnt even get the truck started. So i have NO FREAKING CLUE anymore. I cannot believe this truck. Can someone please help out.

Tisha

I'm in the same boat as you my friend. I've heard replace the computer itself. But that's $300, if it fixes my problem cool but if not I've wasted 300 more that I really don't have!