triplekey1

I have a 2010 jeep gc with 70k on it and today noticed a hiss on the passenger side so when I went to look why I noticed that there is antifreeze coming out on the passenger side carpet. It seems to be coming from, on the passenger side of the center console where there is a foot vent on the side wall of the console and saturated the carpet there. Heat is working so far but I believe this just happened today. Is there hoses inside or is this a heater core replacement job and any info on the procedure would be helpful.

Bustedback

The whole dash assembly needs to be removed in order to replace the heater core. You sure it's anti-freeze and not condensation that is leaking onto the floor. Have you run the A/C or defroster recently? There should be a drain on the engine side of the firewall. They tend to get clogged and then the condensation from the HVAC will back up and come out of the floor vents.

triplekey1

it is pink in color on a paper towel and has a slight oily residue.

Bustedback

Yep, you have a problem then. The dash has to come out.

triplekey1

that was my fear... Thank you for the feedback. 59.00 part and 1k labor?

wikiwaugh

Yep, this will show you why...


Although if you have the ambition to do it yourself...

1. Before proceeding with the following repair procedure, review all warnings and cautions. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL - WARNING)
2. Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable.
3. Remove the bolts (3) and remove the drivers side hush panel (2).
4. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, separate the upper clips and rotate the cover down and release the lower hinges at the bottom and remove the opening cover.

WARNING: Before servicing the steering column the airbag system must be disarmed. Failure to do so may result in accidental deployment of the airbag and possible personal injury. (refer to 8 - electrical/restraints/driver airbag - removal).


5. Remove the three bolts in the lower shroud (2).
NOTE: Use care not to break off the tangs on the shrouds.


6. Then unsnap the lower shroud (2) from the upper shroud (1).
7. Disconnect the steering column electrical connectors (3).

CAUTION: Do not turn the steering wheel more than 90 degrees or damage to the clockspring may occur.

8. Position front wheels straight ahead.
9. Remove the pinch bolt (2).
10. Remove the column support bolts (1).
11. Remove the column cross bolt (1) and slide the column (2) downward off the bracket and remove the steering column.
12. Remove the nuts (1) attaching the instrument panel to the pedal support bracket.
13. Separate the door seal as necessary to access the side covers.
14. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the left side cover.
15. Remove the left side door sill trim.
16. Remove the drivers side cowl trim panel.
17. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
18. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
19. Remove the bolts and disconnect the ground wires within the steering column opening to the left of the steering column.
20. Disconnect the white adjustable pedal electrical connector.
21. Remove the bolts (2) and remove the left a-pillar trim. * Right side shown, left side similar.

22. Remove the two left side bolts and one screw at the a-pillar support. * Right side shown, left side similar.
23. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the shifter bezel ring.
24. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the shifter bezel.
25. Remove the center console back cover (2) and disconnect the electrical connector (3).
26. Remove the screws (2) and remove the console (1).
27. Disconnect the electrical connectors under the console.
28. Disconnect the stabilizer from the outer panel of the box compartment.
29. Open the glove box and push the stop tabs down to drop the glove box out of the instrument panel.
30. Rotate the box down and release the door hinges (2) at the bottom and remove the glove box.
31. Remove the passenger side hush panel.
32. Remove the right side door sill trim. * Left side door sill trim shown, right side similar.
33. Remove the nut (1), separate the right cowl trim panel and remove.
34. Remove the right side end cap. * Left side end cap shown, right side similar.
35. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
36. Remove the bolts and remove the right a-pillar trim panel.
37. Remove the two right side bolts and one screw at the a-pillar support.
38. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the defroster grilles (2).
39. Remove the two fenceline nuts (1). 40. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the radio bezel.
41. Remove the screw inside the lower storage bin, if equipped.
42. Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, remove the center bezel and disconnect the electrical connectors.
43. Remove the nut from the HVAC support stud behind the center bezel.
44. Remove the screw to the HVAC from under the glove box opening.
45. Remove the HVAC bracket bolt from the glove box opening.
46. Remove the left and right center support brackets. * Left side shown, right side similar.
47. Remove the center floor duct (3).

48. Remove the radio.
49. Remove the two HVAC bolts from the radio opening.
50. Remove the instrument panel assembly.

Bustedback

Pretty much. I have never pulled a dash out of a 2010 Grand Cherokee, but I have done a lot of Dodge truck dashes, Explorer dashes, Taurus dashes, Kia Sophia dashes, and an 89 Chrysler Lebaron dash. They all come out pretty close to the same way. Remove the consol, disconnect all of the electrical plugs, remove the screws at the windshield, remove the steering column, loosen the bolts at the kick panels, remove any trim pieces that may be in the way, then roll the dash back and lift out. You should have some help so you don't break the dash as you pull it out the passenger side.

triplekey1

It only took them 6 minutes.. it looks like it should take longer than that... yikes !! thank you for everything.

wikiwaugh

If I could do that in six minutes, I could have my jeep build done in no time! Lol

triplekey1

So my mechanic pulled out the dash to find that the heater core he thinks is fine but the connecting aluminum pipes that connect to the core he believes went bad for some reason he is not sure why. He tried to replace the seals only but it still did not seal so he ordered the new twin pipes. have you ever experienced this before because he has not. What are your thoughts.