Me too friend.

 

hey Blue - my CEL comes on and off ... if I do the key trick - on/off three times I get the code for the CPS, even though I just replaced it. I am guessing the code doesn't reset by itself. Is there a trick to this? I am certain the CEL is due to that code remaining. Other thyen that, all is I-ree. Cheers mate. Stew

 

The code erases after 50 key starts with no further trouble. Or you can remove both bat cables and hold them together for 10 seconds. This erases everything. You will then have to drive for at least 20 miles so that it can re-learn the parameters. Plus you must reset the clock and radio stations. Whichever way you prefer.
Dan

 

You da man Blue! Thanks

 

You too Stew.

 

If you haven't done any maintenance on your rig you should change the distributor cap and rotor, new plugs, new plug wires. you might also want to have a shop check your fuel pressure.. that will verify the entire fuel system
from the fuel pump to the injectors. you could also have a bad coil pack.. but if you are getting spark to the plugs then that's not the case. you also might want to have the DRB scan tool diagnostics run to check the PCM and BCM.

 

I just changed the coil pack and cap / wires this past weekend. The plugs looked fine and she's running like a top now - I really appreciate the recommendation: seems you & I are on the same wavelength. Off topic, I am going to change all four brake rotors and pads + shocks and struts FR & REAR. I found rotors and ceramic pads on E-Bay for $120 DELIVERED for both axles. They are drilled and slotted rotors, but who cares! for that $$$ I have all new brake pads and rotors! the shocks will set me back $150 for F & R KYB's. Anyone ever use these on their vehicle? they have to be better then my tired 90K units on the car now. I get seasick on dirt roads with the current setup!

 

I have bought excellent quality parts here at the lowest prices I could find on the web (including E-bay).

http://www.speedycarparts.com/

 

Wow, that's cheap.