GunsandMoney

Will not shift out of 1st until 4000rpm at low throttle position, 5000 wot. Possibly completely bypassing 2nd into 3rd. No passing gear. Does not shift in manual. HOWEVER, there are times when she acts completely normal like a functioning transmission should. Aside from the 1st gear no shift till 4k, today it shifted 2/3, 3/4, passing gear, no issue, then went back to being a problematic unit. I did not pull over and verify 1/2 shift, and i wish i would have now.

No CEL, No stored codes. TPS input is 5.1 V, output at closed throttle is .67V & WOT is 3.78V (backstabbed through back of 3 pin connector and grounded at battery terminal) Have a dmm and the range seemingly swept with no burps. Everything is dry. I unplugged what i believe to be the tcm harness under the passenger side dash. ( I saw only 2 connecters and unplugged them both)(1 was def for blower, the other was in the corner nearest to firewall and fender) Still no manual shift capability. After 15 mile warm up checked transmission fluid, at the correct level for hot, does not smell burnt.

I am unable to see any vacuum lines broken or disconnected. I also do not see any broken electrical connecters or wiring. Fuses are all good.

Where can I locate a pin out for the TCM wiring connecter so I can verify resistance on solenoids?

What am I missing from my diagnostic protocol?

Are there any other tests I can perform before dropping the pan and looking for pieces? I don't wanna change the fluid due to 160,000 mi and im not sure if it was ever serviced.

Additional info is CPS took a crap the other day, after this problem had started. Coincidence, maybe, but I will leave that to someone that knows more about these trucks than I do.

Also pics and info on locations of any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I appreciate your time, thanks.

GunsandMoney

Also do not believe it to be the clutchpacks, I brake stalled it in the driveway and it does seem to want to move. Not slipping.

GunsandMoney

Can someone lend me an opinion with a diagnosis please?

gs69350

Did you verify/readjust the tv cable? Takes 2 seconds and can cause late shift problems.

GunsandMoney

Thank you gs for the suggestion, I just verified it is dead on. Also no fluids leaking from either of the 2 electrical clip areas i saw on the transmission. 1 of which comes out of the drivers side of the transmission and maintains a deal level horizon (close to the pan), the second also on the drivers side,(toward the transfer case), on an angle downward. connections and wiring seem tight. I would like to fix this without just throwing parts at it, im pretty sure its something dumb. I dont have any faith in local transmission or mechanic shops. I am pretty sure they would just condemn the trans, but I know its only missing a certain function to make it work right again.

GunsandMoney

I have a few hours tomorrow to look into this further. How do I test the speed sensor and other common issues with the transmission? Should I just say screw it and drop the pan at this point? I have to get this thing working again. I know if I drive it and let it continue to shift at such a high rpm, I will damage the engine. Thanks for continued guidance.

GunsandMoney

Against my better judgement I brought it to a local transmission shop. After a short argument over the tps being at fault after i verified tps was in working order i brought it home and replaced the tps. They were wrong. This is exactly why I cant stand local shops. For the most part these people are morons who think they know it all but actually know nothing. I told the guy the procedure I went through to verify it and he decided I was wrong. I asked him to look into it further and he decided to lie and tell me it was only the tps at fault. I am pretty sure I should go kick his ***. #1 for lying about telling me he tested everything else, and then for charging me for a faulty diagnosis. #2 making me buy and replace a working part. Pretty cranky. Anyone have any suggestions? Have to get truck back up and working.

GunsandMoney

Here is an update on whats going on after some driving tests.

Engine and transmission cold.
Presumably 1-2 shift 5k rpm 40 mph.
2-3-4 all shift under low throttle condition, normally. Smash the throttle, will downshift 1 gear and pick up speed. Will not downshift 2-1 unless under 30mph, but still wont shift back up without high rpms. ( I thought at different speeds and RPM increments you could downshift and scream the motor on all vehicles-not the case here)

Engine and transmission warmed up:
1-2 shift 4200-4500 rpm shift 35 -38mph
2.... 70 + mph 3000 rpm, no shift.
Will not downshift. with any throttle smashing whatsoever. Will gain speed and rpm, but no downshift.

No CEL, No stored codes from scanner, No manual 3x on off engine codes(immediate "done"), However, engine light will flash 11x at one second intervals immediately followed by a short flash and solid on check engine light (key on engine off).

Why the difference in hot and cold?

GunsandMoney

Flashing engine light may be due to disconnected, reconnected battery terminal.

GunsandMoney

Drove some more, just threw p0300, 0304, 0305. Random misfire, misfire 4, 5. Checking new TPS, verified within spec. .76 - 3.8 v out, 5.1 v in, verified ground. Saw a few posts related to low on fuel, no shift. Fueled up. Still no change. WTF. Where is the GPS electrical connector on the transmission located? What kind of values should I see in and out of it? I see the pressure port. Going to pick up a pressure gauge tomorrow. What kind of pressure gauge am I going to need? Would someone be able to point me toward a thread or article on testing these? I can downshift manually when engine and trans are cold, still no upshift.

GunsandMoney

Drove again, P0123, p0300,p0306. Tps sensor input voltage high. Random misfire, #6 misfire.

GunsandMoney

Motherflower. Brought it back to transmission shop and told them flat out test the gps. They ran diagnostic again and told me I need a rebuild. However they left the mac scan tool in my truck when I picked it up. Did not have the probes with it,(which just pisses me off to no end because how the hell can you condemn something you didnt even test) but I saw A little info about the output shaft speed sensor. Un-clip 2 pin connecter that hooks to the output shaft speed sensor. Test for resistance. If resistance of the sensor is greater than 800 ohms, replace the sensor. That fix applies to codes p0700 and p0720. This is my tomorrow test. I figured I would share the wealth because if someone reading this can learn from what I find out, why not help the community a little.
In the interim, does anyone have any info on the governor pressure sensor and solenoid? aside from a pressure test, what else can I test to verify functionality of? Going to pick up a pressure gauge, any particular one i need?

gs69350

Just reread the post, what year and engine is the vehicle?


Edit --- nevermind, its in title of post --

gs69350

Not 100% but I think 02 was not the 42re. I dealt with a similar issue on a 99 4.7 which turned out to be a bad output speed sensor ($30 on eBay) which fixed it right up, however it did give a code for the sensor.

At least the v8 99 and up had a 5 speed auto. If yours is one of those, you might not have 2nd gear at all which is why it is a late shift to 3rd (what you think is 2nd)

GunsandMoney

To date I have spent more time online and fidgeting with this problem than it would take to take out the transmission and replace it. I think rather than spend $500 on solenoids, sensors and all this other stuff im looking at, I may just buy a rebuilt unit with a 3 year warranty.