Hey guys! I am having a problem getting the overhead console to stop indicating the rear hatch is open. it is physically closed. any sugestions or possibly a wiring diagram to help chase some electric ghosts?
Old fart with a wrench
Welcome to CF!
You caught me at a good time because I'm feeling benevolent. I've been thru exactly what you're going thru.
The rear hatch has 2 latches as you know. They are molded and riveted with no real internal access to the parts. Inside there is a rotary cam the fits over the latch pin and turns as it closes. When it's fully closed, a spring loaded catch pawl engages the cam and holds it latched. There is a plunger microswitch that closes to indicate the pawl is engaged. The microswitch is mounted with a single phillips head screw and 1/4 turn removes it.
What happened to mine was a little spring that makes the pawl latch the cam broke so it wouldn't stay latched, hence the switch said it was open. If you pressed on the hatch on that side, the light would go off, but then the first bump you hit turned it back on. Lubing the F out of it did nothing.
Checking with Mopar, the latch costs $150+, so I went to the junkyard. $5 each, so I bought both. They can be checked before removal by rotating the cam until it's latched, then pulling the release handle while trying to rotate the cam to unlock it. They can be removed from the outside by removing the bolts and cover plate and pulling it out far enough to release the latch cable and switch. It's a real PITA to remove the hatch inside panel.
To keep the light off until I got the "new" latches, I tied the switch plunger down. Cover the hole or reinstall the latch to prevent exhaust gases from entering the cabin.
So basically the problem is mechanical, not electrical. Both latches must be latched to keep the light off. I have the old latches somewhere in the garage. I'd take a picture of them, but it's cold out there and I'd have to search for them and I'm not that benevolent! I never tried to see if the switches are NO or NC, so IDK if you can just unplug them. I know the door switches you can just unplug.
You caught me at a good time because I'm feeling benevolent. I've been thru exactly what you're going thru.
The rear hatch has 2 latches as you know. They are molded and riveted with no real internal access to the parts. Inside there is a rotary cam the fits over the latch pin and turns as it closes. When it's fully closed, a spring loaded catch pawl engages the cam and holds it latched. There is a plunger microswitch that closes to indicate the pawl is engaged. The microswitch is mounted with a single phillips head screw and 1/4 turn removes it.
What happened to mine was a little spring that makes the pawl latch the cam broke so it wouldn't stay latched, hence the switch said it was open. If you pressed on the hatch on that side, the light would go off, but then the first bump you hit turned it back on. Lubing the F out of it did nothing.
Checking with Mopar, the latch costs $150+, so I went to the junkyard. $5 each, so I bought both. They can be checked before removal by rotating the cam until it's latched, then pulling the release handle while trying to rotate the cam to unlock it. They can be removed from the outside by removing the bolts and cover plate and pulling it out far enough to release the latch cable and switch. It's a real PITA to remove the hatch inside panel.
To keep the light off until I got the "new" latches, I tied the switch plunger down. Cover the hole or reinstall the latch to prevent exhaust gases from entering the cabin.
So basically the problem is mechanical, not electrical. Both latches must be latched to keep the light off. I have the old latches somewhere in the garage. I'd take a picture of them, but it's cold out there and I'd have to search for them and I'm not that benevolent! I never tried to see if the switches are NO or NC, so IDK if you can just unplug them. I know the door switches you can just unplug.