The XJ That's Taking Too Long
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Hudsonville, MI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
Thanks. Should've said something, I could have showed you the belly of the beast. Been driving it for the last week, has much more snap than my truck.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Hudsonville, MI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
Well, it's been my daily driver for over 4 months now and there have zero problems. I had one goal with this 5 years ago and that was to make this a reliable DD. I think I succeed on that one. The next phase? Who knows, but I do have a few ideas.
I did finally get the tires and put them on a few days ago. Drives and handles much better now.

I did finally get the tires and put them on a few days ago. Drives and handles much better now.

Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 711
Likes: 1
From: Benton, KY
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Makes me want to do a SBF conversion on mine. I have a T18 4 speed and np205 t-case. would need to round up a motor, bellhousing, and flywheel/clutch parts
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Hudsonville, MI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
Did a bit of rework on the t-case linkage. Got rid of that stupid transfer linkage and went direct from the shifter to the t-case. A have approx $15 in this mod. Much more firm but need to move the hole for the shifter down about 1/2" to get 4 low. Not a big deal, it has everything else nice and solid but pops out of 4 low. It was a guessing game seeing I didn't have the stock Jeep t-case arm. Found the joints at Tractor Supply (MTD4415168) and the 3/8x24 threaded rod from NAPA.


Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 735
Likes: 0
From: Los Banos CA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did a bit of rework on the t-case linkage. Got rid of that stupid transfer linkage and went direct from the shifter to the t-case. A have approx $15 in this mod. Much more firm but need to move the hole for the shifter down about 1/2" to get 4 low. Not a big deal, it has everything else nice and solid but pops out of 4 low. It was a guessing game seeing I didn't have the stock Jeep t-case arm. Found the joints at Tractor Supply (MTD4415168) and the 3/8x24 threaded rod from NAPA.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Hudsonville, MI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Hudsonville, MI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
Well, I finally went and did something productive. I finally got the floor done today. :woot:
I was expecting soft, but this soft/gone?


I got a replacement side because I didn't know what was needed and I got it very much cheaper thru work.

Here is the aftermath after cutting.

Installed, welded and undercoated.


I just need to let the undercoating cure then I can put the interior back together.
I did change pulleys to slow the water pump down. I got new belts because the new ones need a shorter belt. I'll get to that along with putting in the new fan. This one really sucks.

You never know where you'll find something. Most of everything I got was from a circle track book or street rod show.
I was expecting soft, but this soft/gone?


I got a replacement side because I didn't know what was needed and I got it very much cheaper thru work.

Here is the aftermath after cutting.

Installed, welded and undercoated.


I just need to let the undercoating cure then I can put the interior back together.
I did change pulleys to slow the water pump down. I got new belts because the new ones need a shorter belt. I'll get to that along with putting in the new fan. This one really sucks.

You never know where you'll find something. Most of everything I got was from a circle track book or street rod show.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Hudsonville, MI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
Got it put back together and made a half assed pass with the vacuum this morning. Got the new belts on and should hopefully show steady temps at speed, also with the aluminum pulleys it won't squark on start up vs the chrome ones. And they look cool. I'll wait on putting the new fan on until this proves otherwise. Noticed when I pulled the old belts off that the bolts holding the p/s pump on the main bracket backed off and I re-tightened those.
It's nice driving it again. I even have a solid floor in it now.
It's nice driving it again. I even have a solid floor in it now.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Hudsonville, MI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
In this heat, it showed a flaw in my cooling system. I didn't notice it during the build but I ended up mounting the rad with sheet metal and the bumper blocking airflow to the bottom half.

Cutting anything isn't a option and don't have the over $600 for the proper rad. It can't be moved either.
I got this just in case. It looks like I'm building brackets to mount it because I don't want it mounted to the rad. It's a good Flex-A-Lite Cyclone 16".

Should pull air nicely. Going down the road and it heats up. Idling and it comes down.

Cutting anything isn't a option and don't have the over $600 for the proper rad. It can't be moved either.
I got this just in case. It looks like I'm building brackets to mount it because I don't want it mounted to the rad. It's a good Flex-A-Lite Cyclone 16".

Should pull air nicely. Going down the road and it heats up. Idling and it comes down.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,630
Likes: 3
From: Hudsonville, MI
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
No other pics other than what is up. The part number is there too. You have to take one end off to adjust it. Not a big deal. The transfer case arm is from an S-10 231 case. I just need to pull the arm off and slot the hole or make a new hole 1/2" down so I can get 4 low. A cheap upgrade and you eliminate the crap transfer linkage.



