XJ makeover, One tons and 40's.
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
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From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah I like it. gonna move the axle forward about 2 inches from where it is and maybe go a little lower.
got to playing with the forklift last night
got to playing with the forklift last night
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
Likes: 0
From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ive been slacking but heres a couple updates.
Ive been tired of looking at my rear quarters someone had cut above the pinch seam so I started to get it fixed.
I basically did a cut and fold, but pretty high up.




Also Dave sent me new spannew nuts for my ballistic joints so I can rebuild these either tonight or over the weekend.
Nxt on the agenda is lengthening the arms. They are non adjustable. which I like, nothing to go wrong, but they are too short. I want to get my axle forward.
They are 1.750" o/d so Im thinking of basically sleeving them, cutting the old arm, seporating it 2" inside the new sleeve, welding the ends, and drilling a bunch of holes and rosette welding them. should be fine, gonna be super strong where doubled up and should be plenty strong where the 2: gap inside will be. Ill use .250 wall 1.75" inside tube.
Any reccomendations on tube also appreciated.
oh and heres a clip from last weekend
http://www.youtube.com/user/driftsil.../0/CTrVO8nyggM
Ive been tired of looking at my rear quarters someone had cut above the pinch seam so I started to get it fixed.
I basically did a cut and fold, but pretty high up.




Also Dave sent me new spannew nuts for my ballistic joints so I can rebuild these either tonight or over the weekend.
Nxt on the agenda is lengthening the arms. They are non adjustable. which I like, nothing to go wrong, but they are too short. I want to get my axle forward.
They are 1.750" o/d so Im thinking of basically sleeving them, cutting the old arm, seporating it 2" inside the new sleeve, welding the ends, and drilling a bunch of holes and rosette welding them. should be fine, gonna be super strong where doubled up and should be plenty strong where the 2: gap inside will be. Ill use .250 wall 1.75" inside tube.
Any reccomendations on tube also appreciated.
oh and heres a clip from last weekend
http://www.youtube.com/user/driftsil.../0/CTrVO8nyggM
Also Dave sent me new spannew nuts for my ballistic joints so I can rebuild these either tonight or over the weekend.
Nxt on the agenda is lengthening the arms. They are non adjustable. which I like, nothing to go wrong, but they are too short. I want to get my axle forward.
They are 1.750" o/d so Im thinking of basically sleeving them, cutting the old arm, seporating it 2" inside the new sleeve, welding the ends, and drilling a bunch of holes and rosette welding them. should be fine, gonna be super strong where doubled up and should be plenty strong where the 2: gap inside will be. Ill use .250 wall 1.75" inside tube.
Any reccomendations on tube also appreciated.
oh and heres a clip from last weekend
Nxt on the agenda is lengthening the arms. They are non adjustable. which I like, nothing to go wrong, but they are too short. I want to get my axle forward.
They are 1.750" o/d so Im thinking of basically sleeving them, cutting the old arm, seporating it 2" inside the new sleeve, welding the ends, and drilling a bunch of holes and rosette welding them. should be fine, gonna be super strong where doubled up and should be plenty strong where the 2: gap inside will be. Ill use .250 wall 1.75" inside tube.
Any reccomendations on tube also appreciated.
oh and heres a clip from last weekend
ive been thinkin to do this to my, what i think are RE, lowers, for the same reason....stretching the axle forward some & to try to get some of the bow out of the coils....just dont kno how feasible it is
cool crawlin clip...."how high's the rock?", shoulda responded, "DO IT VAGINE!!"...haha
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
Likes: 0
From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think I'm just going to seam seal inside. They aren't very big, and I'm not too worried about them being perfect, they have been open for a long time. It's 1717284847362 times better than it was though.
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
Likes: 0
From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have had a horribly annoying clunking noise for the past year in the jeep.
last year, I really only noticed it if I had a full tank or weight in the back. so it was obviously something in the suspension. after poking around I assumed it to be the leaf bushings.
up until late, it had become much, much worse, even with no fuel and smaller bumps, it was making cracking noises that hurt my ears. so I decided finally to really check it out.
I knew my shackles were hitting the body at full stuff, but never realized they were hitting over regular bumps.
I need longer shackles, but I have to remove a leaf or so to maintain height. so for the time being I did what Im best at and went at it with the sawzall. lol.
I clearanced the body where the shackle was hitting.
to my amazement it flexes better and even rides better. the body was like a bumpstop, when the shackle hit, it stopped upward travel of the spring.
anyway, heres some pics



and one more to show how it sits at the moment. aso how it looks overall after the rear fender re-do.
last year, I really only noticed it if I had a full tank or weight in the back. so it was obviously something in the suspension. after poking around I assumed it to be the leaf bushings.
up until late, it had become much, much worse, even with no fuel and smaller bumps, it was making cracking noises that hurt my ears. so I decided finally to really check it out.
I knew my shackles were hitting the body at full stuff, but never realized they were hitting over regular bumps.
I need longer shackles, but I have to remove a leaf or so to maintain height. so for the time being I did what Im best at and went at it with the sawzall. lol.
I clearanced the body where the shackle was hitting.
to my amazement it flexes better and even rides better. the body was like a bumpstop, when the shackle hit, it stopped upward travel of the spring.
anyway, heres some pics



and one more to show how it sits at the moment. aso how it looks overall after the rear fender re-do.























