Jeep XJ front driveline vibes... Worn out drive shaft
I have had bad front drive line vibes ever since I got my XJ. I think my bad death wabble my have contributed to its early demise. The slip joint on the ds is shot, the blue Teflon coating has seen better days. I pulled a ds from a auto XJ at the local salvage yard but it's almost 2" longer than my manual front ds. I plan on dropping it off at the drive shaft shop to have it shortened and balanced.
Oh ya, I didn't notice anything different either when going to the Durango box. Not more steering power in the rocks, not an easier feel on the highway...nothing I was expecting. The best bang for your buck in the steering department is a 1.5" x 8 ram hooked up to your tie rod, being fed from the Durango box.
You'll need to drill out your knuckles and look to beefier steering though.
I have a question about your Bushwacker flat flare install....I noticed you had trimmed your fenders before you got the flares. Was there any issues with the amount you had trimmed? It appears that your flares are up higher on the fenders than others that I have seen. The reason I ask is my fenders were trimmed by the previous owner and I was hoping to get the same kit that you have.
You keep us waiting in suspense for months and you feed us with a pic of your sticker!
I'm still waiting for the "I broke my D30 and now have a pair of 3/4 tons"....bla bla bla.
You can say I told you so. I won't get into the details but the used d30 I dropped in w/4.56 gears was a lemon so I am back to re gearing my hp d30. I have the jeep disease bad so I am also planning on stuffing 35" km2s under it soon... probably not advisable but just like staring at the hot bartender with a low cut shirt I can't
help myself.
I have a question about your Bushwacker flat flare install....I noticed you had trimmed your fenders before you got the flares. Was there any issues with the amount you had trimmed? It appears that your flares are up higher on the fenders than others that I have seen. The reason I ask is my fenders were trimmed by the previous owner and I was hoping to get the same kit that you have.
Thanks, Bill
Bill, depending on how they trimmed the fender you may still be able to make it work. I will try to post a pic or link to their instructions. On the front I belive you still need a little of the original fender flare along the top although I mounted mine about 3/4" higher then they recommended. On the back I originally trimmed and folded the fenders above the weld seem. When I installed the BW flares in back I had to fold down the top part of the fender flair to use the stock fender brake bolt holes. Do you have any pics of your fenders.
You can say I told you so. I won't get into the details but the used d30 I doped in w/4.56 gears was a lemon so I am back to re gearing my hp d30. I have the jeep disease bad so I am also planning on stuffing 35" km2s under it soon... probably not advisable but just like staring at the hot bartender with a low cut shirt I can't
help myself.
Take a look at the instalation guide. Its very detailed and has lots of pics. You should be able to get a good feel if you have enough fender left to mount the flair.
You can say I told you so. I won't get into the details but the used d30 I dropped in w/4.56 gears was a lemon so I am back to re gearing my hp d30. I have the jeep disease bad so I am also planning on stuffing 35" km2s under it soon... probably not advisable but just like staring at the hot bartender with a low cut shirt I can't
help myself.
Meh, it's not an "I told you so" moment yet.
If you're going back to the high pinion 30 and re-gearing it, take the time now to beef up the 30 to handle the constant abuse of wheeling 35's while daily driving it. This means welding the tubes to the housing and adding a lightweight mini-truss to strengthen the long side tube all the way to the inner-C. It should be fairly easy to do with the axle out on saw horses. Add an intelligently designed track bar and track bar frame bracket...one without tie rod ends on the frame side - get one or make one with bushings or heim joints on both ends to help control death wobble. Use 1.5" tube at least 0.120 wall to combat flex with 9/16" grade 8 hardware. I'd also build skid plates for the lower control arm axle mounts as they're known to rip off.
If you're going back to the high pinion 30 and re-gearing it, take the time now to beef up the 30 to handle the constant abuse of wheeling 35's while daily driving it. This means welding the tubes to the housing and adding a lightweight mini-truss to strengthen the long side tube all the way to the inner-C. It should be fairly easy to do with the axle out on saw horses. Add an intelligently designed track bar and track bar frame bracket...one without tie rod ends on the frame side - get one or make one with bushings or heim joints on both ends to help control death wobble. Use 1.5" tube at least 0.120 wall to combat flex with 9/16" grade 8 hardware. I'd also build skid plates for the lower control arm axle mounts as they're known to rip off.
Copy that and agree, I put my hp d30 back under the jeep. I plan on building it in stages not enough time or $$$ to tackle it all right now. Regear to 4.56 and wj brake up grade are at the top of the list followed by truss, welding tubes, alloy axles and all the other goodstuf.
I just ordered 4" PAC progresive rate 200 coil springs but they won't come in for another 2 weeks. I also fell in love with the JCR Offroade Crucadider bumper, looks clean and simple. I am going to call around tomorrow to see who has the best price and availability. Quadratec and 4 wheel parts all carry the Crucadider and of course JCR direct. I hate 4 wheel parts but they are just down the street and may have one stuffed away in their warehouse.
