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Tyler's 99 XJ DD Build

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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 01:08 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by axialjeepster
if you had man hubs you can run 2 low also! NICE build man!
Yeah, if you've got girly hubs you have to add a kit to the t'case to get 2 low.

(using manual hubs to get 2 low isn't quite as on-the-fly as a t'case kit though
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Old Oct 22, 2014 | 10:32 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by Jeepin Jason
Yeah, if you've got girly hubs you have to add a kit to the t'case to get 2 low.

(using manual hubs to get 2 low isn't quite as on-the-fly as a t'case kit though
Haha, nice.
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Old Nov 12, 2014 | 06:15 PM
  #183  
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I swapped in the LP Dana30 with 4.56 gears and true-track limited slip. The drive shaft will defiantly hang a little owner then the HP Dana 30 but that's a trade off I will take. After some long delays my chry 8.25 should be ready to drop in this weekend. While I had the front ripped apart I added an extra coil spring isolator (3/4") to level the front.

This is the point where you guys give me **** for swapping out my HP Dana 30 for the less desirable LP Dana 30...











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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 11:27 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by thebe001
This is the point where you guys give me **** for swapping out my HP Dana 30 for the less desirable LP Dana 30...
No sense in expending the effort. You'll beat yourself up later when it grenades
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Old Nov 13, 2014 | 09:40 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Stroked98Xj
No sense in expending the effort. You'll beat yourself up later when it grenades
Then you can say I told you so, haha.
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Old Nov 14, 2014 | 08:22 PM
  #186  
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Boom! The old Chrysler 8.25 is ready to go. 4.56 gears, Spartan locker, and Yukon alloy shafts. I am dropping the dirty girl in tomorrow morning.








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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 12:44 AM
  #187  
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FML! I got the chry 8.25 99.9% installed and as I was tightening the very last bolt between the drive shaft and axle yoke the bolt broke off in the yoke. I tried drilling it out but of course the drill bit broke off. After several hrs of dicking around I surrendered and ordered a new yoke that I can drill out to accept u bolts. I don't want to deal with the crush washers so it looks like it will be going to the shop.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 08:34 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by thebe001
FML! I got the chry 8.25 99.9% installed and as I was tightening the very last bolt between the drive shaft and axle yoke the bolt broke off in the yoke. I tried drilling it out but of course the drill bit broke off. After several hrs of dicking around I surrendered and ordered a new yoke that I can drill out to accept u bolts. I don't want to deal with the crush washers so it looks like it will be going to the shop.
Recall post #169?

Originally Posted by Stroked98Xj

Side note after looking at your progress again...did you tighten the drive shaft bolts to spec? Most DIYers forget that drive shaft bolts that retain U-joints caps typically have a light torque spec of less than 25lb-ft...

http://www.randysdriveshaft.com/torque.html

Keep up the good work.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 08:38 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by thebe001
Then you can say I told you so, haha.
Yes indeed. I'm waiting for your post in the near future to read "What full size axle should I get for my 3/4 ton swap?".

Jeep is looking good though. Your recent wheeling trip looks like a blast.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 01:11 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by Stroked98Xj
Recall post #169?
Like i said it was literally the last bolt, I got excited and went full retard. There was a little paint in the yoke bolt tread. Instead of doing the smart thing and chasing the treads with a tap I instead tried to force the bolt in. I also reused the old yoke bolts which was also dumb. On the bright side after shelling out the extra coin I will have a better yoke set up... small price to pay for one of life's glorious lessons, haha.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 01:20 PM
  #191  
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How did u make out with your dw problem? I am also fighting with dw.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 09:20 PM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by rootripper
How did u make out with your dw problem? I am also fighting with dw.
It's still there. After battling the infamous DW ever since I got my XJ I think I have narrowed it down to the driver side knuckle. The tie rod mount location is slightly elongated. I ordered a new one, it should be in this week. The front DS slip joint is also shot which believe it or not contributes to the DW. There were several things contributing to the DW but I think the root cause is the knuckle. Every time the WD pops back up I check the front end for loose or worn out parts and remove and replace as needed.

At this point these are the parts I have replaced...

- both hubs
- track bar
- upgraded tie rod and all tie rod ends
- steering box
- axle housing
- upper and lower control arms and all bushings
- I frequently check for loose components, have my tires balanced and keep the old XJ aligned
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 10:50 PM
  #193  
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A few parts came in today for some projects on the to do list...

Durango steering box upgrade with C-Rok steering brace.



Steering knuckle replacement.

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Old Nov 19, 2014 | 09:24 PM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by JWB37
sliders... better yet, swap to a JY D44 or C8.25 and lock that.

Nice jeep BTW
I have been working on your recommendations...

Sliders - check
Locked C8.25 - check
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Old Nov 23, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #195  
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I dropped in the Durango steering box and C-Rok steering box brace. The Durango box is definitely more stout then the stock box however there was no noticeable change on the street.





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