Project: Keepin' it clean
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
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From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
Bwahahahahaa!!! I'm sorry, but I darn near fell out of my chair laughing... 
I'm starting to be extremely careful with my drinks in this thing.. Especially after my bottle of Mountain Dew exploded all over me just before my college's orientation day.. (I was dressed up too..
). So... I think I need softer springs. Lol. Or air bags.... Hmm...

I'm starting to be extremely careful with my drinks in this thing.. Especially after my bottle of Mountain Dew exploded all over me just before my college's orientation day.. (I was dressed up too..
). So... I think I need softer springs. Lol. Or air bags.... Hmm...
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 523
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From: Plymouth CT
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Bwahahahahaa!!! I'm sorry, but I darn near fell out of my chair laughing... 
I'm starting to be extremely careful with my drinks in this thing.. Especially after my bottle of Mountain Dew exploded all over me just before my college's orientation day.. (I was dressed up too..
). So... I think I need softer springs. Lol. Or air bags.... Hmm... 

I'm starting to be extremely careful with my drinks in this thing.. Especially after my bottle of Mountain Dew exploded all over me just before my college's orientation day.. (I was dressed up too..
). So... I think I need softer springs. Lol. Or air bags.... Hmm... 
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
The other red XJ that we have has RE springs and long arms and it's really soft riding, but feels a bit like a boat in the corners. Lol. Not sure if that's because of the lack of a rear swaybar or more because of the stock front swaybar..
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Plymouth CT
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
230lb springs plus shocks with a heavier valving made em a bit stiff. The bastard pack was just bad.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
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From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
I've been having some ignition problems for a while now (ever since I put the cheaper tune-up kit and MSD on)... So.. Tune-up kit from Performance Distributors is going to replace the other stuff. It that cures it, I'll probably try plugging the MSD back in. 
So I'm off to do that and try to tighten the johnny joints on my control arms so I can get rid of my death wobble issue...
Moar pics to come..

So I'm off to do that and try to tighten the johnny joints on my control arms so I can get rid of my death wobble issue...
Moar pics to come..

Last edited by bpas328xi; Mar 22, 2013 at 06:04 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
IT FITS!!!! And I can close the garage door which means my heater will actually keep me warm... WINNING!!! 

Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
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From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
Cap, rotor, coil, and wire upgrade from Performance Distributors.

Whoops..
The new wires are too thick to fit in this anyway. 


How did I get the coil out last time? Oh yeah. From below..

Old coil on the left. New on the right.

Installed.

Supposedly you can run a sparkplug gap of 0.065 with this coil... Idk. I'm just going to be lazy and leave them at 0.035.
LIFE!!!!!!! MUHWAHAHAHAAAA!!!!! That was definitely a more authoritative start.. So far, so good.
Went to work on the control arms.. With a 2 foot breaker bar.

I've never actually seen a nut look like that.. No clue how it got like that.

Haha.. Whoopsie.

Aaaaannnndddd fixed.

I was only able to get the driver's side LCA off and tightened as much as I could and greased the living daylights out of it.. Probably couldn't disassemble it because I might have hit it with a hammer a few times..
Gunna attack the pass LCA and the UCAs with the impact when I wake up (couldn't get enough strength/leverage to break the bolt loose...). Hopefully those other three CAs go a little smoother.. 

Whoops..
The new wires are too thick to fit in this anyway. 


How did I get the coil out last time? Oh yeah. From below..


Old coil on the left. New on the right.

Installed.


Supposedly you can run a sparkplug gap of 0.065 with this coil... Idk. I'm just going to be lazy and leave them at 0.035.

LIFE!!!!!!! MUHWAHAHAHAAAA!!!!! That was definitely a more authoritative start.. So far, so good.
Went to work on the control arms.. With a 2 foot breaker bar.


I've never actually seen a nut look like that.. No clue how it got like that.

Haha.. Whoopsie.


Aaaaannnndddd fixed.

I was only able to get the driver's side LCA off and tightened as much as I could and greased the living daylights out of it.. Probably couldn't disassemble it because I might have hit it with a hammer a few times..
Gunna attack the pass LCA and the UCAs with the impact when I wake up (couldn't get enough strength/leverage to break the bolt loose...). Hopefully those other three CAs go a little smoother.. 
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
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From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
Well... I was able to loosen it to a point and then I had to start tightening it.. Still about 1/8" play in the joint before I greased it (iirc, it was closer to 1/4" play before I tightened it).
Didn't really need to.. Balljoints only have like 10k on them, all the tierod ends are brand new, the trackbar is straight up beef... Only thing that could be causing it are the control arms. Lol.(and the jjs are actually loose. lol)
Didn't really need to.. Balljoints only have like 10k on them, all the tierod ends are brand new, the trackbar is straight up beef... Only thing that could be causing it are the control arms. Lol.(and the jjs are actually loose. lol)
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
Finally have the Jeep all put back together... Took it out for a drive and the death wobble seems to be a little better and the ignition issues seem to be cured (only time will tell for certain).
I was having trouble with this bolt which bolts the UCA to the axle.. Couldn't get it all the way in and then couldn't get it out. Threads may have already been mangled..

Rolled the Jeep out of the garage and put it on a jackstand and took the wheel off to get more access and finally got the bolt out.

So since the bolt's threads were mangled, I ran it through a die and ended up re-threading it to M10x1.25 (i think it was M10x1.5 before)...

Because of that goof I had to re-tap the nut to match.. Which ended with this....
The tap was also already mangled before I used it on this nut, so I couldn't get it to thread all the way through the nut. 

Sooo... I went to Lowes and got a new grade 8.8 M10x1.5 bolt with washers and a nylock.

All bolted back together. For some reason my pass. UCA was about 4-5 full turns too short.. I have no idea if my UCAs are now different lengths because I didn't even bother touching the other UCA. Lol. And I couldn't get the pass. LCA bolt (at the frame) loose, so I gave up and just greased it.
Probably just going to get new lower johnny joints since the uppers appear to be tight and the lowers are loose. Lubed all the johnny joints except the driver's UCA... 

Broke this when I opened the hatch and it hit the top of the garage opening... Well.. At least I know how the wiper comes off for when I finally get around to fixing it and making it work. Lol. Another thing to look for the next time I'm in the junkyard. Lmao.

I also cleaned my rims with Liquid Wrench and WD40 while I was taking a break from that bolt. rofl.
BEFORE:

AFTER: nice and shiny.


These two pics aren't directly related to the Jeep, but are as a result of it and are probably going to end up on a future project assuming that we (CobraMarty and I) can get some hardware for relatively cheap (i think that's the plan.. lol). The box on the left is a O2 sensor modifier and the box on the right is a fuel/timing calibrator. They are both made by Split Second. Managed to get them both for a hundred bucks. WIN!

I was having trouble with this bolt which bolts the UCA to the axle.. Couldn't get it all the way in and then couldn't get it out. Threads may have already been mangled..

Rolled the Jeep out of the garage and put it on a jackstand and took the wheel off to get more access and finally got the bolt out.

So since the bolt's threads were mangled, I ran it through a die and ended up re-threading it to M10x1.25 (i think it was M10x1.5 before)...


Because of that goof I had to re-tap the nut to match.. Which ended with this....
The tap was also already mangled before I used it on this nut, so I couldn't get it to thread all the way through the nut. 

Sooo... I went to Lowes and got a new grade 8.8 M10x1.5 bolt with washers and a nylock.

All bolted back together. For some reason my pass. UCA was about 4-5 full turns too short.. I have no idea if my UCAs are now different lengths because I didn't even bother touching the other UCA. Lol. And I couldn't get the pass. LCA bolt (at the frame) loose, so I gave up and just greased it.
Probably just going to get new lower johnny joints since the uppers appear to be tight and the lowers are loose. Lubed all the johnny joints except the driver's UCA... 

Broke this when I opened the hatch and it hit the top of the garage opening... Well.. At least I know how the wiper comes off for when I finally get around to fixing it and making it work. Lol. Another thing to look for the next time I'm in the junkyard. Lmao.


I also cleaned my rims with Liquid Wrench and WD40 while I was taking a break from that bolt. rofl.
BEFORE:

AFTER: nice and shiny.



These two pics aren't directly related to the Jeep, but are as a result of it and are probably going to end up on a future project assuming that we (CobraMarty and I) can get some hardware for relatively cheap (i think that's the plan.. lol). The box on the left is a O2 sensor modifier and the box on the right is a fuel/timing calibrator. They are both made by Split Second. Managed to get them both for a hundred bucks. WIN!


Last edited by bpas328xi; Apr 6, 2013 at 11:33 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
Time for another boring update... Sorry guys. 
Replaced all of the door seals and the hatch seal with new ones.
Old seal coming off..



New seal on.


Old door seal..

New seal.

Old vs. New

Driver's side done.

Passenger side done.

Oh yeah... I almost forgot. I also installed a smaller supercharger pulley. Went from a 2.5" pulley to a 2.125" pulley (2 1/2 to a 2 1/8 for those who don't like decimals.
) 
I now hit 8psi@1/4 throttle, 10psi@1/2, maxes out at 12psi. This was on a 50* night with no manual shifter shenanigans. Not even a hint of detonation. Only running 3* retard (at 6psi. no more retard after that) and 89octane (mid-grade) gas. No belt slip. IATs seem to max out at about 170* before they start to drop (gotta stay in boost longer to see how low they drop. Lmao). So.. To the people who said the SPRINTEX S5-210 was too small for the 4.0 engine.. IN YO FAYCE!!!


Replaced all of the door seals and the hatch seal with new ones.

Old seal coming off..



New seal on.


Old door seal..

New seal.

Old vs. New

Driver's side done.

Passenger side done.

Oh yeah... I almost forgot. I also installed a smaller supercharger pulley. Went from a 2.5" pulley to a 2.125" pulley (2 1/2 to a 2 1/8 for those who don't like decimals.
) 
I now hit 8psi@1/4 throttle, 10psi@1/2, maxes out at 12psi. This was on a 50* night with no manual shifter shenanigans. Not even a hint of detonation. Only running 3* retard (at 6psi. no more retard after that) and 89octane (mid-grade) gas. No belt slip. IATs seem to max out at about 170* before they start to drop (gotta stay in boost longer to see how low they drop. Lmao). So.. To the people who said the SPRINTEX S5-210 was too small for the 4.0 engine.. IN YO FAYCE!!!


Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
From: Snowville, PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 torque monster w/ a supercharger
My phone's microphone makes it sound more obnoxious than it is though (like that really high pitched part..)...12psi boost makes up for it thoigh.
Last edited by bpas328xi; Mar 30, 2013 at 11:34 PM.


