Project Florida Crawler
Hey got a question or two.. I know if I waded through the 44 pages of tourer build I could find it, but asking Is faster.
What coils did you use in rear?
how long are your lowers?
How long are thre uppers?
how much separation at frame?
Any pics of the frame side and axle side?
Last question what would you change if anything
I have decided once wheeling is over this season.. I am linking my chop top.
What coils did you use in rear?
how long are your lowers?
How long are thre uppers?
how much separation at frame?
Any pics of the frame side and axle side?
Last question what would you change if anything
I have decided once wheeling is over this season.. I am linking my chop top.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hey got a question or two.. I know if I waded through the 44 pages of tourer build I could find it, but asking Is faster.
What coils did you use in rear?
how long are your lowers?
How long are thre uppers?
how much separation at frame?
Any pics of the frame side and axle side?
Last question what would you change if anything
I have decided once wheeling is over this season.. I am linking my chop top.
What coils did you use in rear?
how long are your lowers?
How long are thre uppers?
how much separation at frame?
Any pics of the frame side and axle side?
Last question what would you change if anything
I have decided once wheeling is over this season.. I am linking my chop top.
-ill measure in the morning, i dont remember
-see above
-4 at frame, 8 at axle
-ill get some
i love how it works, but if were to build it again i would probably french the coils into the frame so i could run a longer coil.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im probably going to run a cut down TJ or XJ front coil. at full length both coils give too much lift and are wayyyy to soft for street driving. but, i think if i cut a few coils off i can improve the spring rate and ride height to where i want.
or ill pick up another pair of 2" lift rear TJ coils, i liked how those where and they should be about the right ride height now. BUT, i bent the hell out of one of the ones i had after just one wheeling trip
or ill pick up another pair of 2" lift rear TJ coils, i liked how those where and they should be about the right ride height now. BUT, i bent the hell out of one of the ones i had after just one wheeling trip
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,358
Likes: 0
From: Orlando-Miami
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Front v8 zj coil is a bit stiffer if the tj/XJ ones end up being too soft. I used to have 90s Thunderbird coils on my old Jeep. those would work as well and they are significantly stiffer but still flex well. You would need to cut them down though.
I'm currently running v8 GC front coils in the rear with my link set up. They are perfect for my application. I cut off 1.75 coils to get the ride height right where I wanted it. I had stock fronts from a xj with a 1.25" puck but Rey were just too soft. They were great for driving offroad but were soft for road driving since it's my DD. plus they had no load capacity for when I had all my tools and gear the Jeep was almost bottomed out.
Thanks for the answers man.. I ended up on my Truggy build changing from rear to front coils. I guess I am just going to measure and see what fits when the time comes
. My rig see maybe 5 or 10 miles total asphalt time so being squirley isnt a big deal.... as for bombing down the trails.. squirley makes drivng more fun
. My rig see maybe 5 or 10 miles total asphalt time so being squirley isnt a big deal.... as for bombing down the trails.. squirley makes drivng more fun
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ram came in today.

painted my steering to stop the rust

made my 2 piece driveshaft to clear my crossmember at full droop
cut up my old front shaft and took 6.5" out of it

welded it back up

made my stub out of an NP231 output yoke, sliced up dana 30 pinion, a driveshaft carrier bearing, and a piece of an old driveshaft.

and bolted it all together


and some pictures


painted my steering to stop the rust

made my 2 piece driveshaft to clear my crossmember at full droop
cut up my old front shaft and took 6.5" out of it

welded it back up

made my stub out of an NP231 output yoke, sliced up dana 30 pinion, a driveshaft carrier bearing, and a piece of an old driveshaft.

and bolted it all together


and some pictures

Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
And thanks!
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do not. I have 7/8" heims with no misalignment spacers which have a pretty wide face, and my safety washers. along with the heims being slightly clocked from each other . So there is no tie rod roll



