salad

Was a run with non-centered yokes. Haven't found out it mine's one yet. I believe that was only during the summer/fall and has been fixed

PocketsEmpty

Say what?

salad

Yeah I'll see if I can find the post. It was a problem in August or Sept or something.

salad

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/sy...itself-180553/

http://comancheclub.com/topic/42236-rugged-ridge-sye/

XJwonders

If u read the thread, u l see pockets Empty already posted in that thread lol

PocketsEmpty

Oh THAT thread! I remember now

s1xty7

PE, just been looking through your thread. Interesting build! I say that because I just picked up a gunmetal pearl 1998 Classic that I wanted to do a Nate's slim winch bumper, Detour's tailbone or slim-line rear bumper, and a Zone 3" lift on 31s. I had all of that planned before I found your thread. Hah! I was thinking about running the classic Bushwhackers and keeping the tire size at 31x10.50 Destination M/Ts though. Still debating between Black Rock Lobos or keeping the stock Eccos.

Notable differences: I already have the 231 and my Jeep is rust free already.

Very interesting indeed! Good luck with your build and I'm extremely eager to see how it comes along.

PocketsEmpty

Thanks man! I'll bet those 31's will look REAL dinky with the other BW flares. I plan on going 33's this summer. And lucky you for being rust free! It sure is a pain to deal with, but not impossible. Just make sure those rims are at least 4" backspaced.

Still haven't got the Detours tire carrier, they are pretty swamped. I just talked to Mark earlier actually and he says he isn't accepting any orders currently because he is swamped!

s1xty7

Yea, the standard Bushwackers might be a little wide. I like the look, but may end up running stock flares for a little while. On a 3" lift, I'll probably need a bit of fender trim to allow full flex without bending up the fender. On my other XJs I've just run flare less but I want this one to have a more finished look. I did consider the flat flares, like you're running, but it isn't the exact look I'm going for. I have a bit more time in my build before I get there. Watching your progress, the flats may grow on me.

I talked to Mark a while back before I bought my 98. He said I MIGHT be able to place my order if I was willing to wait a while. Tough to be in such high demand with great looking products.

typicalsundayxj

Not trying to hi jack the thread at all but I recently encountered a similar issue I got new wheels with 3.75 bs and had my fenders trimmed with no flares and maine state law says the tires hae to be covered so I had to put flares on so I decide rather then spending 500 on some flat BW FLARES I'd make a similar style just my own flare for a total of $8.42 :-) I used 3/4 conduit ad some old door skins from work came out mint bed lined them for the finish



Driver side



Passenger side

I hae about 15hrs into the front I'll be doing the back in a couple weeks

PocketsEmpty

Man that looks great! What about the rear, though? I paid $360 for my flats

XJwonders

That does look nice. Do u have a thread showing how u made them?

JeepMN

Loved reading this entire build thread. Really informative and helped me a lot. I'm sort of in a situation you were in earlier with the rust. Got a few questions to run by you..

I've been researching a lot about chassis saver and have seen mostly positive results. I was wondering what type of prep work you did for the underbody before you applied it? Just wire brush, sand, clean and apply? Also, how well has that chassis saver held up through the winter? I'm in Minnesota so winters can get pretty brutal..

Thanks in advance!

typicalsundayxj

The rear will be done in a couple weeks me and my wife are moving this weekend so it's delaying jeep wok lol I do have some pics ill search my phone for them I just used a conduit bender bent the pipe up welded the some spacers to the fender then skinned it with sheet metal

PocketsEmpty

Thanks! I actually just got a PM with a very similar question, so I'll post my response here.

It's great stuff! It's held up well in the interior and certain parts of the exterior. I can't stress enough how important prep is. I skimped on some spots on prep, and rust is starting to peek through again. I blame my own prep work and not the Chassis Saver. I haven't poked my head up under by the gas tank where I applied it, but I hope the same thing isn't happening under there. I mostly sanded areas lightly and cleaned them with mild soap water. Not enough...

Follow all instructions to the T on Magnet Paints' website. Cleaning the area with mild soap or degreaser (and making sure all the soap is off) is very important. Part of my prep fail is that I didn't give it ample time to dry. It wasn't dry when I actually thought it was when I applied the CS. Next time around, I'm going to either let it sit after cleaning, or use a heat gun and dry it really quick. I'll be redoing some of this soon (possibly this week) in preparation for Monstaliner, and I definitely don't want any rust coming through that any time soon. It's a constant struggle up here in PA! It definitely stays where you put it, though. I've ruined some clothes and have shoes that are permanently silver because of this stuff! In the summer I plan to redo my axles with it as well and am hopeful for a better turnout.

Also, another thought, is that the XJ rockers tend to rust from the inside out. That is also another reason some rust has come through again for me. It sucks! It's also important to note that Chassis Saver is very similar to another product, POR15, in the fact that it's designed to be painted over rust. This is how it will work the best for you. I had slight rust on my passenger rocker, and I angle grinded it down to bare metal, and then applied CS. It's starting to come through slightly there now. That could be part of the rocker situation, though. I'll try to get some pictures up of how it's progressed since application. All in all, I do highly recommend it.