Hoosier8

OK, my Winter daily driver got crunched at the mechanics and they settled on a dollar amount and gave me my Cherokee back.

Some background on the 93 Cherokee. I have bought it used 12 years ago with 193K on the odo and drove it to 262K before this happened. The master cylinder went out and since it was my daily driver and a snow storm was coming I took it to a National Chain to get fixed. They must not have told the mech that it had no brakes. Anyway, they towed it back and put it where I wanted. During that time I went out and bought another used Winter vehicle (not to be named here) so I no longer rely on my beloved Jeep. So now I can do whatever I want to with it since it is now superfluous for a two car household (one Summer, one Winter) which means I can now build it for off road, or whatever.

My GF called it a POS so she is glad I am not toting her around in it anymore.

Over the 12 years the maintenance was as follows:

Oil changes (duh).
Heater fan resistors twice, last one from Pic-a-Part.
Front brakes and pads twice.
Rear brakes once.
Tune up once with new plugs and wires.
Front right driveshaft and bushings up front (the most expensive).
Replace the drivers side door after both hinges broke in half (again Pic-a-Part)
Battery, once or twice or maybe even three times but I can't remember. (I can get them for free).

So for purchase price and maintenance costs, I probably have about 4K into it over 12 years. This has probably been the most reliable used car I have ever owned.

The damage is minor, right fender, grill, and headlight housing. Something I can get parts for at the local Pic-a-Part this summer. Other than that, the rest will be whatever I want to do with it.

So the so called "build" will first be to get it back to roadworthy condition starting with the brakes. Picked up a master cyl and will work on that tomorrow so I can move it into the garage when I need to without going out the other side.

Now, I am a mechanic, sort of. I am a licensed aircraft mechanic but have not worked in the industry for decades. I have rebuilt a few auto engines and changed brakes and such but do not have a lot of knowledge about changing things up so I will probably have some questions along the way.

First thing this Summer will be to fix the crunch and then work on rust. I think my pans are good but will have to check further. My drivers side rocker panel basically disappeared in 2013 and I would like to weld in some square stock for sliders. I will assess the rust this summer and start working on reconditioning and protecting from any more rust.

One of the rear axle seals needs to be replaced and I have done that before. The front pads need replacing and with the price of the disks I usually replace both but the right front caliper needs a new boot too since I let the pads get so low once that it burned a hole in the boot.

So I will be making a list of some things I would like to eventually do after I fix things to where I would be road worthy.

Lift and shocks. Maybe 3".
Quick disconnect sway bar.
New Tires.
Stroke the engine (depending on the condition of the one in it maybe a lower mileage engine).
Maybe a different rear axle. Would like a locking rear diff. (will have questions on types and regearing if needed). Edit, turns out I have a 27 spline C8.26. Might consider a locker.
Reconditioned transmission (auto).
Brake upgrade, possibly rear discs.
New windshield (been driving what looks like a spider web windshield for years, surprised I never got stopped).
Bushwacker flat flares.
Bumpers.
Winch.


So I will post occasionally when I get something done but this will not be anything quick.

Any suggestions are welcome.



Last year.

Hoosier8

Got the grill off today and started on the fender but it was so muddy out so I did not get the screws on the bottom and could not find my extension to get the ones behind the doors. Once I get that off I can start pounding some of the other metal back into place. Waiting on some flare nut wrenches to tackle the brake master cylinder. Once I fix the brakes, I can move it into the garage to work on it.

Happy to see that the replacement parts are pretty inexpensive.

Hoosier8

Got my flare nut wrenches in the mail today which means I can again attempt to remove my brake master cylinder. I have also been perusing the Internets and found an interesting DVD made by an Englishman that I am going to order.

http://www.metalshapingzone.com/

About 68 bucks US.

He shows how to do metal shaping using hand tools and welding, mostly with OXY, which I have training on and equipment for. I have always found it fascinating how cars used to be built by hand. I may do some experimenting on my crunched Jeep for practice and if it doesn't work out, there are always third party parts. Since my Jeep is nothing more than something to sink money into and not a daily driver, I can use it for experimentation.

Hoosier8

Just picked up a 29 spline corporate rear axle complete with brakes and drums for $125 to replace my 27 spline Chrysler. Also picked up a MORE steering box brace cheap. Supposed to snow till Sunday and it is still outside until I fix the brakes. May try that tomorrow depending on how much it snows.

Hoosier8

Worked on the brakes. Replace the master cyl, no go. Must have a problem elsewhere. Will pull the drums when the weather gets better. Other than that, cleaned the battery connections and started it up. Still purrs like a kitten at 262K.

XJTay

I like the red door. Makes it looks aggressive

Hoosier8

I have a paint scheme in mind based on red on black that I really like but it will be just a tad more sophisticated than the red door.

Hoosier8

Got my build sheet back. I wanted to find out what gearing I have which I found out anyway by looking at the tag on the rear axle, then I wanted to see if it came with the towing package and it did so has the transmission cooler.

Vehicle Description JEEP CHEROKEE
Model Year 1993
Body Model XJ J L 74
Color PX8- Black Clear Coat
In Service Date 01/12/1994

Sales Code Description

A7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats
AHT Trailer Tow Group
APCP Center Band Two Tone Paint
ARWP Sport Decor Group
BARP 90 Amp Alternator
BCDP 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes
CACP Low Back Bucket Seats
CDBP Reclining Front Seats
CFMS Rear Fold w/Removable Cushion Seat
CKAS Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKTP Cargo Tie Down Loops
CSAP Spare Tire Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CUFP Full Length Floor Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGSS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System
DHSS Floor Mount Automatic Shift Lever
DJHS Dana M30/181MM Front Axle
DMDS 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
DRAS Corporate 8.25 Rear Axle
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEDS Tinted Rr Drs/Qtr/Liftgate Glass
GEHS Fixed Door Vent Glass
GFA Rear Window Defroster
GRZP Left Remote Mirror
GSZP Right Remote Control Mirror
GTZ Power Mirrors, Fold-Away
GVAC All Vehicles W/O Power Mirrors
HAAP Air Conditioning
JAYP Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JBFS Instrument Panel Black Bezel
JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAP Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBP Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAS Cigar Lighter
JJFS Single Low Note Horn
K27P Bodyside Molding
LAJS Headlamps On Warning Chimes
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
MB1S Black Front Bumper
MB5S Black Rear Bumper
MDA Front License Plate Bracket
MFFS Black Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MMCS Rear Qtr Solid Window Insert
MMGS Belt Moldings
MMKS Body Color Drip Trough Molding
MNAS Black Door Handles
MUKS Silver/Chrome Badging
MWGP Roof Rack
NAAS Federal Emissions
NBKS EVAP Control System
NFAS 20 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHBP Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler
NMCP Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
PX8 Black Clear Coat
QX9P Black
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RABS AM/FM Radio
RCBS 2 Speakers
RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBAS Power Steering
SCGP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers
SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers
SHAS Front Stabilizer Bar
SHCS Rear Stabilizer Bar
SUAP Tilt Steering Column
TBB Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TRNP P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires
TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires
WJ5P 15X7.0 Full-Face Steel Wheels
WKDP 17" Aluminum Spare Wheel
WLYC All Steel Wheels
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Hoosier8

Picked up Comanche body parts from the doors forward today. I only needed the Header/Grill, right fender (crunch), and hood (hail damage) but you never know when you might need one of the other parts. Curious about rust since my drivers side rocker rusted out so I crawled underneath the other day and the pans look pretty good. It had been undercoated and in some places some of it was coming off, mostly where road rocks would hit, so this Summer I will do some scraping and cleaning to see how bad it might be and paint.

Hoosier8

I got a DVD I ordered on sheet metal repair with hand tools. It is from a guy out of England that has been doing restorations for 25 years or so and hand forms sheet metal for the repairs. I was surprised to see that Oxycetylene is preferred for butt welding panels together but he explains why and shows how to do it. Pretty slick.

I am not affiliated in any way.

http://www.metalshapingzone.com/

There are some areas on the Prairie Porsche that I want to replace/repair due to rust and the reason I bought the video.

I also scan Craigslist for anything Cherokee or Jeep related (or anything else I might want to check for) that I might want to pick up. Already picked up a 29 spline Corporate axle and sheet metal for the crunch off of Craigslist. Since I work on a computer, I wrote a little program that beeps any time something new pops up on Craigslist using the search Cherokee "OR" Jeep. That way while I am working and get a beep, I can check it out and if it is something I might want to check out, maybe I can get their first.

Hoosier8

Here is a big mod. I have one of these on my rear window but it was getting ratty so I ordered a sheet of them to replace as needed.

Hoosier8

Picked up an SYE for future use.

Hoosier8

Picked up an Oxy and Acetylene tanks, #3s today for $200. The Oxy tank is private and good till 2017 but the acetylene tank has a local supplier's name and is out of inspection. $25 for the inspection with the local supplier. Don't know if anything is left in them but will check when I have some time.

Waiting for some hammers and dollies and have almost everything I need to do everything I need to do.

Hoosier8

Went to Harbor Freight and picked up a 1/2" impact wrench, sockets, and an auto darkening helmet.

Picked up some older metal shaping hammers today. A bumper and a shrinking hammer. Loose on the handles so I have them soaking in 50/50 water antifreeze to tighten them up. The wood absorbs the water and expands the wood and the antifreeze acts as an anti rust agent. Still waiting for the dollies and slapper. Tomorrow i will install the 220 outlet for the MIG welder and see if there is anything left in the Oxy Acetylene tanks. Dug out my torch kit from storage. Ordered a blue point hand shear set for sheet metal. I would like to get an electric shear so am scouring CL for one though I can do what I need to do with the hand shears. I need to get a bag for shaping next. After that I need to build a welding table (table in general) and maybe pick up a cheap Oxy Acetylene cart at Harbor Freight.

We have a Metal Supermarket in town now.

Hoosier8

Well, I am excited. I have to wait for a long haul trucker to return to town to purchase a Stanley Uni-Shear that will cut up to 14ga sheet metal. My next tool purchase. I can use it to cut out body panels and patches to form by hand.

Installed my 220 outlet today but it was cold out so that is all I did.