What switches are you referring to? The setup I’m running here with the sPOD draws directly from the battery (via the relays in the main sPOD box). One of the nice features of the sPOD is the low voltage shut down. If it senses voltage getting low it cuts power to all accessories wired to it. Nice protection for a one-battery rig (which mine will be for the foreseeable future).

As far as radios, I’m running a dual band Kenwood TM-V71. The main unit will be mounted under the rear seat, display is going to be mounted up high on the headliner, just above the windshield. I’m keeping my eyes open for an OEM over head console to make it looks clean.

 

Got the grommets in, wiring run, tested the sPOD and the compressor, all work as they should.

Also got the new battery terminals on, all fresh connections at the battery now. New boots too.







Gonna cool my jets for a bit, I’m going to start thinking about the roof rack, I think that’s my next step.

 

I was referring to the switch labled Ham Radio. I have seen people rig their radios to switches before and I assumed it would actually power on the radio. If it's only sending power to the unit via relay I just don't understand the need but different strokes for different folks (wouldn't be the first time I don't understand). That spod feature does sound pretty neat tho! Do you regret not wiring the compressor through the spod? I'll stop hijacking your thread after this lol

 

Just noticing you run the cheap Napa battery. LOL.
I had one in a '96 I used to own. I worked at the store with the guy I bought the Jeep from.
I had the receipt for the battery from when he installed it.
Lasted 75 months if I recall before I had to replace it.
Considering it is a 65 month battery I'd say it was a win. MLOL

 

Oh, ok....lol. Yeah, the radio being wired there keeps the low voltage safety function in play if I leave the radio on when I jump out of the truck for lunch/whatever. That’s the main reason for that.

I intentionally wired the compressor to its own switch. I think I’m going to run out of spots-relays in the sPOD when I get all the lights set up, and the winch (going to have a master “kill” for the winch).

It came with the 96 I bought as a donor for the motor. For now, while I’m just getting started with accessories, it’s fine. I’m going to do the wire upgrade at some point, and I will probably update the battery then. However, when I do replace it I will be replacing it with the biggest Walmart battery I can stuff in the box. I have spent big $$ over the years on AGM/Gel/Optima, all cases it let me down. Nothing beats lead acid for common batteries for value and reliability. If your doing some crazy custom work/build then sure, step up to the big leagues where you’ll spend huge money. For 95% of the common Jeep build, the good old Wally World lead acid is your best bet.

 

Cause I work there the Legend battery costs me $10 more then the Power, what you have, and the Legend Premium cost me $10 more then the Legend.
Usually I go for the Legend and they seem to be fine. There was nothing wrong with the Power one in my '96 either. When I needed to replace the Legend last year
with a $20 rebate I decided to give Legend Premium a shot. See how that plays out.

 

Can’t beat that! If I had a friend that worked at an auto parts store I’d hit them up for an employee discount on stuff too! Lift time for parts at cost....lol.

 

Believe it or not online you can probably get things for the same price I pay.
I will be the first to admit that Napa can be pricey. Not on all things though.
But my thing is one I work there, so there is the loyalty thing, but more importantly is the warranty thing.
If I have a problem with a part I really don't have a problem if you get my drift. LOL.
But does not mean I won't save money when I can.
For instance when I swapped over to synthetic in my diffs I used the Valvoline VV975.
At a local big box store with a promo code I saved about $20. Hey Valvoline oil is Valvoline oil.
Does not matter where I buy it. If we were talking about $6 total for the 6 quarts I bought I would not even waste my time.
And I am a cheap bastard.
On the other hand when I needed a starter I bought a new, not remanned, Napa starter. I paid about $135.
Sure I could have done better online. But ya know what? It comes with a lifetime warranty.
As stated above should it crap out the whole problem can be solved in a day.
And certain things I don't even shop around on. Examples would be brake parts and front end parts.
The better stuff though. SS and UP lines on the brake stuff and NCP line on the front end parts.
Just buy Napa stuff and call it a day.

 

You know, the funny thing is that I have a Napa right down the road (it’s actually the closest of all the auto parts stores). I’ve been in there 3 times over the years, every time it’s been a hassle. Wrong part/missing pieces/**** attitude (though I’ve had that everywhere from time to time). I guess I’m due to give them another try though....

 

Ok folks, need a solid direction on this damn wandering issue with my XJ. It is a real concern, and I can’t seem figure it out.

I did a bunch of research, found countless threads, and checked things several times over. Here’s what I came up with.

Suspension components, tight & new.

Steering components, tight and in good condition and/or new (brand new ball joints/all).

Had my wife turn the steering back and forth while I laid under the Jeep, everything moves nicely, not slip seen.

Measured/checked toe, found it toed “in” 1/8”

Checked caster, found it at ~14% which comes out to 7-8deg

I’m at a loss guys....what am I missing?

 

Is it consistently pulling to one side? Wondering if your drag link could just be slightly out of adjustment. Maybe check if the axle is centered? The only other thing I can think of is adjusting your gear box to tighten up any steering slop but not sure that's normally associated with "wandering"


PS: QSL on the radio switch. I killed my battery a few times doing that before discovering yaesu radios have auto off features thank god haha.

 

How old are the control arm bushings on the axle? What about the tie rod ends on the stock steering? I know you say new but RC uses trash bushing so they might be warping if only a year or so old.

 

I was thinking of that adjustment too! I’ll be looking at that soon.

You know, the rubber bushings on the axle side are original....hmmm.

Tie rods/ends, all nice and tight.

I have read plenty of complaints on RC stuff, but I’ve had good luck with their products. The lift components are all very well built. Having said that, it’s only been on the XJ for 4 months w/600ish miles on it. Time will tell.