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My XJ Build

Old 12-24-2018, 12:12 AM
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport
4.0L Dana 30 / Chrysler 8.25

Hey everyone,

Started my build today figured I would make a thread, become a member and such as this is my first ever Jeep! Nothing to crazy here just a good dirt road Jeep, that I can take fishing, snowboarding and such.

Got her in the shop tonight, everything under it is pretty dam tired so lots of work ahead! Shocks came off, first turn on the sway bar link and it snapped so PB Blasted everything on the front end and that's about it for tonight!

The start: I actually got it for $800.00 Canadian as someone tried to steal it and broke the small back side windows and broke the ignition. It has the SKIS system though so they didn't get far. Luckily the little antenna module wasn't damaged, and the owner had the transponder key. I located a Parts Jeep and got the plastics, and cylinder out and was able to get a locksmith for $50.00 to make the original key in it.
Drove her home, and my god it needs attention!



Pulled her in the shop, got her jacked up, and shocks out.


After one turn and snapping this link off I decided to empty an entire can of penetrating fluid on her. I can tell I am in for some fun...


Found a guy selling an RC Short Arm Kit for only $500.00 Canadian so I picked it up. New Leafs in this Photo



New Shocks, Coils, Links, Arms and bolts.


More to come!

Last edited by SkeenaXJ; 01-13-2019 at 10:13 PM. Reason: Include more vehicle information
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Old 12-24-2018, 08:49 AM
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Welcome to the site and to XJ ownership SkeenaXJ !

Glad to see the new XJ owners and builds going strong yet even after the last XJ rolled of the line in 01
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Old 12-24-2018, 08:56 AM
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Sometimes it's just easier when they snap (at least the sway bar links). Does the RC have you knocking out those studs on the axle for the lower part of the links? That was fun...
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Old 12-26-2018, 07:54 PM
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Through some work into the XJ Build this morning, I started with a good long f bomb as I snapped off the head of the bolt for the Track Bar.


Was able to get it out by cutting between the bushing & bracket with a 4 1/2" Thing Zip Cut. There is a flange with a welded nut on the inside that is not easy accessible so you can't just drive it out with a punch sadly.
Since I am adding the 4.5" RC Lift I figure I will get the RC Forged Adjustable Track Bar to center the axle once it's done.


Ran pretty rough so through a new cap, rotor, & wire set in her.

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Old 12-26-2018, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ixanay_on-the_exjay View Post
Sometimes it's just easier when they snap (at least the sway bar links). Does the RC have you knocking out those studs on the axle for the lower part of the links? That was fun...
It sure does sir; I beat on for awhile to no avail. Think I will need to hook up my torch and heat the bracket up and try again. Do you know if it just pushes out or is it actually threaded? I don't have a hope in hell of turning it with the T55 so hoping with enough persuasion it will just fly out.
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Old 12-26-2018, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SkeenaXJ View Post
It sure does sir; I beat on for awhile to no avail. Think I will need to hook up my torch and heat the bracket up and try again. Do you know if it just pushes out or is it actually threaded? I don't have a hope in hell of turning it with the T55 so hoping with enough persuasion it will just fly out.
Just gotta keep beating, the heat helps try not to heat the bolt. The T55 is just there to mess with you there are no threads. It is a knurled surface pressed in. They will come out careful you don't bend it too far but don't worry if you do they will bend back.

Last edited by ixanay_on-the_exjay; 12-27-2018 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 12-26-2018, 09:20 PM
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I happened to have had a ball joint press rented when I had to remove those for my JKS quicker disconnect install. With the ball joint press, those came out really quick for me.
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Old 12-27-2018, 05:15 PM
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Just ordered up the RC Forged Adjustable Track Bar & Stabilizer Shock.

Going to replace the Hubs, Tie Rods, Ball Joints and order up the RC Heavy Duty Tie Rod bar.

Can anyone advise me on a good product for the Ball Joints, and Tie Rods possibly even a "kit"? I looked on Amazon and the pricing and reviews is a little all over the place so want to ensure I don't get crap but also don't want the best available as my Jeep wont be rock climbing.

Also what's the deal with the coil bump stops, do I need extended or anything with a 4.5" lift. The old one look worn and cracked, faded and would like to change.
Is the DAYSTAR KJ09114BK a good choice or?


Thanks!

Cheers,

Last edited by SkeenaXJ; 12-27-2018 at 05:22 PM.
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:30 PM
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Little more work today on the XJ.

Front bumper off, going with the Smittybilt XRC setup.

New Rough Country Track Bar bracket installed.

The RC Adjustable Forged Track Bar is a beast!

Look at the wear on this ear, its attached to the spindle. Do most of you guys just grind them flat or what's the best course of action?

New RC Steering Stabilizer is in!
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:57 PM
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Clean it fresh metal but do not remove any weld back the metal thatís uneven and grind it back even with the rest of the slide . Thereís countless mentions of it on here . The track bar is a beast for sure but it you get adjustable control arms make sure you have at the correct length or the coil will contact that outer rib on the mount bracket on bumps .
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Old 01-13-2019, 01:13 PM
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Looks great! I love these SUVs they are fun to work on. I went with Moog ball joints. They aren't made the way the used to be apparently but they were a good price and looked to be made solid. I don't have a ton of miles on mine but they seem to be fine
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Old 01-13-2019, 02:51 PM
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Spicer for the ball joints. I wish I could have used em considering they've lasted this long stock why not just go with what works!? Unfortunately on my donor HP D30 the PO had already thrown in MOOGs which has the knurling, it actually stretches the bore so the spicers are too small, was forced to buy moog. Can see the difference in a pic on my build thread should be the first post on this link part numbers included.
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey17 View Post
Clean it fresh metal but do not remove any weld back the metal thatís uneven and grind it back even with the rest of the slide . Thereís countless mentions of it on here . The track bar is a beast for sure but it you get adjustable control arms make sure you have at the correct length or the coil will contact that outer rib on the mount bracket on bumps .
Much appreciated
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ixanay_on-the_exjay View Post
Spicer for the ball joints. I wish I could have used em considering they've lasted this long stock why not just go with what works!? Unfortunately on my donor HP D30 the PO had already thrown in MOOGs which has the knurling, it actually stretches the bore so the spicers are too small, was forced to buy moog. Can see the difference in a pic on my build thread should be the first post on this link part numbers included.
Thanks, any chance you could confirm I have Dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25? I have Part Number D/S40583 Upper and D/S40916

Dana 30?

Chrysler 8.25?
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:28 PM
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Yes and Yes
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