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First off. I installed my SYE on my JY tcase. Everything looked real nice in the case and all bearings were smooth. Only thing was... i forgot to put the magnet back in the slot DOH! Only realized once the whole case was back together. I think I broke a time record tearing it down and getting it back together lol.
Next up I moved on to my front end rebuild. I removed the ball joints only after trying to pull one out the wrong way for 20 mins. Rookie mistake I swear! When I went to put my new ball joints in the lowers slid right in... they almost would fall out with their own weight even after pressing it in... WTF! Turns out that if you or a PO has swapped BJ's with MOOG or another brand with knurling then it actually stretches the hole in the axle... therefore your stock spicer replacements will no longer fit tight... there goes that plan! Looks like I'll be returning the Danas and going with MOOG since it's my only option... For those who are interested here is a thread on this subject
Spicer Part# 706944X
MOOG Part # K3134T & K3161T
Next up was the headlight and harness install. Thanks to jhc7399 forum vendor I had a handy new haadlight harness. Installation went smoothly and I upgraded headlights with the
. Dang this is a HUGE improvement. I am so happy. So far this has been one of the only "instant gratification" mods yet. I should have done it sooner.
Here's a pic of them lighting up my rear end I just cleaned up and painted... getting close!
Lastly I tore off the front bumper end caps and side trim FINALLY. Everyone voted for removal including me so here it is =]
I ended up using a rubber eraser wheel on my cordless drill. Someone had recommended this method on this thread and also recommended that I get two. I ended up only needing 1/2 of one so I'm not sure if I would recommend buying two... It helped to let the sun beat on it for a bit before attacking each side other than that you figure out the right combo of pressure and RPMs. One of my bumper bolts is frozen in the little clip nut thing So I'm waiting to cut the front bumper for a bit until I get that free.
That's enough work for the weekend I'm going kayaking PEACE!
Last edited by ixanay_on-the_exjay; 01-13-2019 at 02:49 PM.
Got the front ends swapped this weekend with the help of a new Jeep bud. He was kind enough to let me come down and use the lift at the shop he works at, on his one day off no less! A big shout out to him cheers! Long story short we decided against installing the control arm drop brackets.. Mainly because of how rusty my alignment shoe bolts were looking... regardless, the rest of the swap went very smooth and I was glad to have someone around to lend a hand.
NEW TRICK ALERT! Well new to me... when swapping out knuckles (yes mine were in better shape) I learned that after backing out the wheel bearing bolts you can use them to hammer out the hub from the inside out. Now THAT was a cool trick! Okay that's all here's some pics...
Swapped transfer cases this weekend. I will say that no video or post I came across put as much emphasis on how much those tcase bolts suck. Super cramped spots, a stupid linkage bracket design and 18 years of NE winters really make for an interesting job. Basically took me a day to get the damn thing out. I attribute my success to two things ratchet wrenches and the good ol' wrench on a wrench leverage trick. I wouldn't have been able to do this without those. Oh and I replaced that dumb linkage with the boostwerks kit!
In other news I snapped a bolt on my rear yoke getting the driveshaft out. I will NEVER attempt a snug bolt on this Jeep EVER AGAIN without giving it a little heat. I was able to get it out with an easy out no problemo. I do have to add that this is the first removal of a busted bolt I've done myself on this jeep and it felt nice to not have to fold and have some pro do it. There was nothing to this one!
I'll soon be swapping in my 8.25 which supposedly has a longer yoke so we will reassess then. Until then I'll be dealing with some mild vibration in the 25-35mph range as well as some noise up near the 70's. We'll be talking angles here before too long. I preemptively ordered 4 and 6 degree shims just in case.
Last edited by ixanay_on-the_exjay; 12-23-2018 at 07:20 PM.
Tonight on Jeopardy our categories are... Swapping in an 8.25... Bench Bleeding master cylinder... All About Drum Brakes... and a crowd pleaser... ANOTHER broken yoke bolt!
Pics to come but here's one for now
Last edited by ixanay_on-the_exjay; 12-23-2018 at 07:30 PM.
Turns out I didn't take pictures at the most interesting parts... Would have at least liked to show you my Master cylinder on the bench or my new rear end with the cover off... oh well. Here's what I got
Swapping out the rear ends turned out to be the easiest/fastest part of this job, here it is with 4º shim from IRO. Did I take any measurements? No.
(quick note: IRO recommends 100 ft lbs of torque for these ubolts instead of the factory recommended 55)
Here's what my new angle of the dangle looks like. It's not perfect but it feels SO much better.
Have I mentioned before that I hate drum brakes? Probably not because I've never touched them before. I now hate drum brakes - if disc brake conversions do nothing but eliminate drum brakes it will be worth the money and energy to do it.
I let my master cylinder reservoir run dry while swapping the axles... so I learned how to bleed a master cylinder. I didn't see any documentation on this so I just took it out and bench bled it like is well documented for other vehicles, looking at it I don't think I needed to take it all the way out. Oh well think it looks cool in the booster.
Goodnight sweet prince! RIP Dana 35 '01-'18
Last edited by ixanay_on-the_exjay; 12-26-2018 at 09:47 AM.
I came very close! I will be doing this next time I have the shaft off. It just involved shopping and it's a bad time for that - I forgot to tell the tale but short version is I broke my easy out in it too.. somehow knocked and drilled it all out without messing up the threads. Had extra strap kits.
For those who don't know the ubolts are made for Ford I believe and it's Part # 81004
I'm dealing with the same level of frame rust underneath. Have you been able to shore things up with the new parts you've installed?
Not sure I understand what you're asking. I don't have much rust on the frame rails. There's just one spot I may touch up near the shackle on passenger side and otherwise a few floor pan and door spots which most would probably call cosmetic. New parts don't fix rust only eliminating it will save your Jeep.
I don't think I mentioned that I finally replaced my fuel rail. The old one never recovered from the injector swap. Some things just don't want to be touched. Only BIG downside to the new Mopar rail is that there is no schrader valve...
I don't think I mentioned that I finally replaced my fuel rail. The old one never recovered from the injector swap. Some things just don't want to be touched. Only BIG downside to the new Mopar rail is that there is no schrader valve...
Tell me about it. My '00 has that stupid fuel damper on the rail. People refer to it as the flame thrower. It is a non serviceable part but people have swapped out the O Ring that goes causing it to leak. To be frank I don't know if I would want to chance a repair like this. So when I did my 4 hole injector upgrade I poked around about a new fuel rail. Just wanted to do the upgrade and be done with it. Part of my while we are here philosophy when it comes to repairs. Would have set me off if the rail decided to go after the upgrade if I did not do this. I was able to get my hands on a brand new Mopar fuel rail for $160. Like you I noticed it did not have the schrader valve. I kept on waffling back and forth on whether to use it or not. Did end up using it but was not happy about it. Thing that still confuses to this day, I did try to research this, was if the damper was really necessary. My '96 I used to own did not have one of these and visually was exactly the same otherwise. Why Mopar would do this is beyond me.
Oh okay that was my front axle (low pinion d30). I ripped that out. I mean it was still pretty solid but it looks scary as hell and probably wouldn't last much longer, definitely glad I replaced it
Last edited by ixanay_on-the_exjay; 01-06-2019 at 06:09 PM.
Alright folks, I've awoken from winter hibernation. I finished running all the wiring for the radio install here's some final picks of the setup. I will probably do a full walkthrough of the radio install for the youtube perusers.
The two grey wires are for the head unit and mic. Red/black is power that goes all the way to the battery and the other two are antenna and 1/8" audio to speaker
Speaker mounted to back of center console. It is pretty sturdy and doesn't appear too bothered by the back seat when flipped up. You can see the head unit and microphone install locations on the dash
10-08-2018, 03:34 PM
Long Working Weekend
