My last build, 2000 XJ
11-20-2010, 03:58 PM
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Another Mild XJ Build
Well, I am a recovering avid Jeep seller and I have been told by the girlfriend that I cannot sell this Jeep. So I am stuck with it till the end. 
Anyways, its a 2000 Sport 4 door
4.0l
AW4
NP231
LP Dana 30
C8.25
30x9.50x15 BFG A/Ts
TJ wheels
155K miles
And it was FREE from my girlfriends parents!
Today I was able to repair some of the rust on the rockers and hatch.
Before:
Passenger Side was the worst and some small holes started on the bottom.
First I taped off the doors and flares and scuffed the rockers with a red scotchbrite. I also hit the rusty parts with a flap disc on the grinder. I realize thats not the best approach but it was available and I will be painting them with bedliner so it won't show up.
After I hit it with the flap disc I went over it again with the scotchbrite and then cleaned it off with some cleaner. Once it was clean I finished taping it off and laid down some paint.
Heres the after:
The bottom of the hatch was getting rusty and the paint was cracking so it got the same treatment.
Hopefully tomorrow it will be cured and I go to the car wash and get some better pics.
Next step for the rig will be a 3" lift and 31s. Sometime after that it will get long arms, narrow ford 9" rear and still trying to figure out what I want to put in the front.
Anyways, its a 2000 Sport 4 door
4.0l
AW4
NP231
LP Dana 30
C8.25
30x9.50x15 BFG A/Ts
TJ wheels
155K miles
And it was FREE from my girlfriends parents!
Today I was able to repair some of the rust on the rockers and hatch.
Before:
Passenger Side was the worst and some small holes started on the bottom.
First I taped off the doors and flares and scuffed the rockers with a red scotchbrite. I also hit the rusty parts with a flap disc on the grinder. I realize thats not the best approach but it was available and I will be painting them with bedliner so it won't show up.
After I hit it with the flap disc I went over it again with the scotchbrite and then cleaned it off with some cleaner. Once it was clean I finished taping it off and laid down some paint.
Heres the after:
The bottom of the hatch was getting rusty and the paint was cracking so it got the same treatment.
Hopefully tomorrow it will be cured and I go to the car wash and get some better pics.
Next step for the rig will be a 3" lift and 31s. Sometime after that it will get long arms, narrow ford 9" rear and still trying to figure out what I want to put in the front.
Last edited by RDK_YJ88; 03-18-2012 at 11:10 AM.
11-20-2010, 06:07 PM
#3
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nope that would be this one--- https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/my...j-build-14806/
Those are 38" TSL SX's
Those are 38" TSL SX's
07-24-2011, 12:25 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well I guess it's time update this thread a little 
New Additions-
3" Zone Offroad AAL lift kit
33x12.50x15 KM1's
15x7 (more on that later) Summit Racing D window wheels
1.5" DOM steering with 3/4 Ruffstuff Hiem joints.
Extended the rear bump stops 2.5"
Extended the front bump stops 3"
Started building a Winch Bumper.
Trimmed fenders
No rubbing
Soon to come
Long arms
Winch
weld on beadlocks (hence the 7" wide wheels)
Rock sliders
Roof sliders
Flat belly skid
HP front dana 30 with Truss
OBA
Now for some pictures
I just picked up the new tires and got them mounted on the Jeep. After a little trimming in the front we decided to go wheelin'!
Had a blast even though we lost a rear fender flare and bumper corner. Also put some nice fender rash in all four tires
After that it was time to trim some more and extend the bump stops.
Didn't get any pics of how I extended the rear bump stop, but basically made a spacer out of some 2.5x2.5x3/8 square that bolted between the stock bump stop and unibody rail. the rear tire doesn't rub and more, barely.
For the front I Took some of that same square tubing and cut it about 3" long and capped one side and welded it to the top of the coil spring pad. I could have only my it 2-2.5" but hey, now there's room for bigger tires
And now you are up to date.
New Additions-
3" Zone Offroad AAL lift kit
33x12.50x15 KM1's
15x7 (more on that later) Summit Racing D window wheels
1.5" DOM steering with 3/4 Ruffstuff Hiem joints.
Extended the rear bump stops 2.5"
Extended the front bump stops 3"
Started building a Winch Bumper.
Trimmed fenders
No rubbing
Soon to come
Long arms
Winch
weld on beadlocks (hence the 7" wide wheels)
Rock sliders
Roof sliders
Flat belly skid
HP front dana 30 with Truss
OBA
Now for some pictures
I just picked up the new tires and got them mounted on the Jeep. After a little trimming in the front we decided to go wheelin'!
Had a blast even though we lost a rear fender flare and bumper corner. Also put some nice fender rash in all four tires
After that it was time to trim some more and extend the bump stops. Didn't get any pics of how I extended the rear bump stop, but basically made a spacer out of some 2.5x2.5x3/8 square that bolted between the stock bump stop and unibody rail. the rear tire doesn't rub and more, barely.
For the front I Took some of that same square tubing and cut it about 3" long and capped one side and welded it to the top of the coil spring pad. I could have only my it 2-2.5" but hey, now there's room for bigger tires
And now you are up to date.
07-26-2011, 05:30 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ended up redoing the rockers with Duplicolor bedliner, decided to remove the door trim and paint the bottom of the doors while I was at it. Also is a nice side shot to show the 33's with the 3" lift.
07-26-2011, 06:50 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Trending Topics
08-07-2011, 11:30 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Did a little more work on the Jeep in prep for my trip to Silver lake Sand Dunes this weekend.
Built a lower truss for the front axle out of .25" plate. Fully TIG welded on. Used Nickel filler rod around the cast diff to avoid cracking. Also added inner C gussets that are also .25" plate and TIG welded on. Should be a jumpin' Jeep now
I decided to go with a lower truss because it is a lot easier to build without having to cut all of the mounts off and build new ones. Took a loooooong time to weld everything together to avoid overheating and warping the axle.
Built a lower truss for the front axle out of .25" plate. Fully TIG welded on. Used Nickel filler rod around the cast diff to avoid cracking. Also added inner C gussets that are also .25" plate and TIG welded on. Should be a jumpin' Jeep now
I decided to go with a lower truss because it is a lot easier to build without having to cut all of the mounts off and build new ones. Took a loooooong time to weld everything together to avoid overheating and warping the axle.
08-07-2011, 01:18 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
That would take forever, but awesome work.
08-07-2011, 01:36 PM
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Year: 2000
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Yep, I welded about 3" on the front and about 3" on the opposing back side and let it cool. I would let it sit until I was able to hold my hand on the weld and then Id weld again.