ur doing a hell of a job!! keep it up!

 

SO, after fighting my driverside hatch strut for what seems like forever, I finally decided to try and do something about it. At first, I was just gonna try and get it back to OEM condition, but then I recalled ALL the times worn out or broken struts slipped and hit either my head or my friends' heads. After consideration, I decided to build a manual strut; one that I could manually lock into place. My first attempt was a dismal failure simply because the material I used (basically junk I had lying around) folded like a taco under the weight of the hatch... Literally!

After going back, re-drawing the design, and using new materials, I finally got a really nice, good-looking outcome. But, when I went to start putting everything together, the welded nut inside the body broke off...

Since I lack a welder, grinder... basically everything except my trusty drill and jigsaw, I devised a cheap and effective way to fix my problem. But, enough talk, here's the result!




Ignore the bag with my winter coats in it lol.




It tucks away pretty well, don't you think? No rubbing against the trim, and the trim didn't need any clearancing.





I am very happy with the outcome. I have opened/shut it many times (and I have to slam it a bit to get the lock to engage) with no signs of failure, and it seems very sturdy. Plus, keeping the gas powered one on the right side helps take some of the load off while opening the hatch. Plus, I think I can alter my design to mount gas shocks on the side of them, so the hatch opens by itself but I can manually lock my struts for peace of mind.

 

How did you attach ithe pipe to the body and hatch of the jeep.

 

There are welded nuts inside of both the hatch and pillar in the cargo area that the little mounting ***** screw into. I reused the one in the hatch, however the one in the pillar broke off and I had to get a little creative to get a nut back there. What I did was drill 2 holes just big enough to allow me to get a closed end wrench back there with the nut in it, then threaded a stud through it, threaded another nut down the stud so it sandwiched everything tight, slid the support on, and just added the last bolt.

The hatch end of the support just used a regular bolt. Nothing special.

 

I bought the bored tb from him too. I didn't get the whistle at first but I have it now, would you mind sharing what you did to get rid of it? I've had it off 5 times, cleaned it, shaved every sharp edge and hole in it, polished the inside, sealed the tps and the iac motors, trimmed the gasket and opened up the hole on the intake and I still have it. I'd love to hear your fix as would 1000's of people who have this problem. Thanks.

 

To be completely honest, I now have a slight whistle at mid rpms. However, I think I got mine 'back' because I removed the silencer from the air box. Before I removed the silencer, I had no whistle. And it seems like you did everything I did.

For me, I paid close attention to the IAC passages. Just make sure you don't let debris fall in there. If it does, clean it out. Make sure the edges are rounded off, and not just angled. That's what I did. Then I gave each side of the throttle blade a slight touch. Just a little to make sure everything was nice, rounded, and smoothe. I left the gasket and intake manifold opening alone. Also, make sure the bottom opening of the TB (which is the end that's been bored) is smoothed out.

Everything I listed is all I did to my TB. And before I removed the silencer, I had no noise. HOWEVER, what I failed to mention is that my exhaust work, especially my muffler choice, drones inside a good deal (which I like the note of). I imagine that could have easily obscured my hearing a little.

Hope this helps!

 

To those who follow my thread, I apologize for the SEVERLY lacking amount of any updates. The rig has stayed basically the same since I did the hatch support mod, minus an oil chnage or two. As soon as a little more money starts rolling in (which HOPEFULLY should be soon), you'll be seeing a lot more work.

Mods to come:

Chyrsler 8.25 (29 spl) swap
Rear disc brake mod
Suspension overhaul/ 2 inch lift install
Interior mods (not gonna list, you'll have to wait for what I have in store)
Paint
(These are just a few)

Teaser:

How many of you fellers are familiar with the humble Chevy LT1?

 

Hey man, I appreciate all the ideas. I spent 4 days shaving, cleaning, flipping butterfly's, new gaskets, new seals on the sensors, you name it I tried it. I pulled the entire tb apart and shaved it, cleaned it and reinstalled it about 120 times no lie. I wish it was held on with velcro it would have been so much easier. haha! Anyway, I found the way to get rid of mine. It seems that it has something to do with that area that is notched out at the very bottom of the tb. Once it's bored out, that area becomes smaller and somehow whistles when the air is blown across it. I tried shaving that too to try to bring it back to stock dept but didn't work. I noticed I had side to side play while mounting the tb with the bolts loose. I tried mounting the tb to one side then tried it to another. I noticed the severity of the whistle changed, so what I did was take a 5/16 drill bit, and drilled the existing mounting holes on the tb itself. You don't take off very much at all, but it was just enough that when you mount it, slide the tb towards the passenger side as far as it will go and then tighten it down. When you open the butterfly, you should have the oh so slightest lip of the gasket and the intake on the side with that IAC opening. That lip shuts the whistle up and it doesn't take anything away from it being bored out. I spent 4 whole days back and forth with this tb trying everything under the sun to get it to stop. This was the ONLY thing that stopped it completely. With all the other shaving ect.. nothing else I did made the noise any different. give it a shot if you want to try to get rid of it and see how it works. If you do it, please let me know if it worked. I'm curious and I'd like to start a thread on it if it works for other people.

 

Very interesting. This weekend, if it permits, I just might go and give that a try! I'll be sure to let you know if it works. If so, you'd be saving quite a few people a good amount of money. Most guys pay MUCH more for a TB because guys sell it saying they eliminated the evil whistle. If you stumbled on how to fix it, that's like the holy grail of TB knowledge. I'll give it a shot if I can and absolutely let you know if it works! Thanks for sharing!

 

I'll have to put a patent on the fix! hahaha!!! I hope it works for you.

I'm taking an unscientific guess here on what it is, if shifting the tb doesn't work by itself, then all the other work I did in combination is what ultimately did it but like I said, this was the only thing that stopped the noise completely but here is my theory on it. Some will say now the tb doesn't sit right over the hole of the intake. Not true. I checked the clearance after I mounted it and test drove it and the intake hole is still larger than the outlet of the tb. So that part is good. After sitting and thinking of all the things that I tried logically, I started to think why would something "stupid" like THIS cause the problem? The only thing that I could come up with is the the tb was not centered when it was bored out. Make sense? IDK. But it makes sense after I did what I did. My thinking is, if someone bored out a tb say on a drill press and not a lathe, they have no center point to start with because the hole is already open. Example: try to use a larger size hole saw on a hole that has already been drilled out. There's no center reference. So, if you have to eye ball it, there's really no way to get a perfect accurate center mark.
Now for those who spend the extra $$ on the bored tb's from large companies that don't whistle, they probably bore them on a lathe and have better technology and use the proper equipment to do it to spec. I'm guessing here because I obviously don't work for those companies.
Goodluck on getting rid of your noise. I can't wait to hear if it works.

 

Sorry it took so long to get back to you. The repair DOES in fact work. I can now no longer hear any sort of whistle when under load at 2500+ rpm like before. Awesome! Thanks for sharing man!

 

Finally, AN UPDATE!! Granted not a huge one, but an update nonetheless!!


The topic of this update.... SPEAKERS! A couple of friends of mine hooked me up with some nice speakers. 5.25" Sony Xplods from one friend, 6x9" Xplods from another! Considering I have a Sony Xplod headunit, can you say cool?

*DISCLAIMER* I am fully aware some people hate Sony. That's cool, and I respect everyone's right to an opinion, but don't spew it here. I am not looking for a banging stereo system that will rock the damn roof off of my head. I bought my Jeep for a capable off-road wheeler, for snow duty, light towing, and because it's awesome. I am not looking for a stereo set-up that will blow me damn near deaf before I am even 30.


SO, with that out of the way, here's the guys I'm putting in.



5.25's going in the front doors, 6x9's going in the hatch!

Now, for the 6x9's to go in the hatch, you gotta enlarge the hole (snicker). Handy Dremel comes in here. I got it cut out, and had to measure, hold up, sand, measure, hold up, grind some more, etc etc until it was just right!



And installed!



I still have to do the passenger side, but I ran out of time until this evening (hopefully). Everything is hooked up and works great!

I am currently working on finish up the front. I got the passenger side speaker installed, and it works great, but the drivers side is giving me issues. I thought I found the problem under the boot which was this cracked and split ground wire:



So, I cut the bad section off, spliced in new wire:



Hooked everything up, made sure all was tight, turned the key on, and nothing. Still won't work. So I am open to suggestions there. I have a friend coming by hopefully today to help me figure it out as he is FAR more audio tuned than I am.

So far, I am happy. With only the passenger side door speaker and the drivers hatch speaker, the sound still sounds so much better than the old stockers. I love it! I'll post up when I get everything installed and working.

 

Awesome man. Glad to hear it. Took me 4 days to figure it out but I was determined. I guess I will make alot of Jeepers happy. haha!

 

Nice job on the speaker install. Looking forward to the finished pics. It's good that you have all matching speakers since it's recommended to do anyway so it's great that you kept them "all in the family" And Sony has been around forever, they make an excellent product. Are all speakers created equal? No, they are built different to serve different purposes. But I think you'll be pleased with the sound when it's all said and done.

 

Heck, I only have 3 speakers working right now (driver's is still pfttt), and I love it it over stock. The 3 new speakers sound way better than 4 stock ones did, and I haven't even adjusted the bass or anything yet. Very happy so far!

As I said, 3 speakers now! Got the last 6x9 mounted, so both are in and both work. Sounds awesome, hit hard. No rattle! I cut the holes just right and grinded away small amounts at a time and used those little screw clip type deals that slide over the edge of the mounting surface. Everything is tight and stationary.





Sorry about the crappy pics. Phone camera delux pics lol. I got the rear hatch cover put back in, and again no rattles. Also got the passenger door panel and accesories back on. One note with the 6x9's... they DO add some weight to the rear. However, I haven't noted them falling out yet, and my little homemade hatch strut handles the weight nicely.