iamdgw

Cam sensor - piece of cake
Crank sensor - would have been easier if I read a little bit more first and realized how much easier it would have been if I positioned myself differently under the vehicle front the get go.
after getting the old one out - and not finding the piece of plastic cover - I came back in and read PUT YOUR FEET TOWARD THE PASSENGER SIDE - so you're lying crosswise under.
I was with my feet to the back and my arm would not get up there. - but once I moved that way - getting the new one back on was a piece of cake.

Next is to figure out what is leaking / possibly wrong with the steering box.
Any one have recommendations for replacements?
I've read a little - s10 blazer or durango from JY or any particular rebuild from your favorite parts store

ixanay_on-the_exjay

Sorry I didn't read every post but why are your eyes set on the steering box? I saw the original checkup the mechanic mentioned it but are you having steering issues? Once you get your lift evened out (measure from top of axle tube to frame rail) you can figure out what you need to do. I haven't honestly seen much talk about uneven lifts side to side, it's normal to have the front bow as replacement leaf springs tend to be stiff and not settle as much. You can rectify this with simple coil spacers but you'll need to readjust your track bar, assuming you have an adjustable one, and get an alignment. Keep it up. And post some pictures for God's sake!

iamdgw

Pictures - will do.
Steering box is because it is leaking - could just be the pitman shaft seal - ? from research - haven't focused on that yet.
I did try to measure top of axle tube to frame rail and that showed more even - 10 in the front 9 in the back? but I'd like to do that again and the center of wheel to see where any uneven-ness is coming from
maybe the wheel flares are crooked

I did see that the rear leaves have the stock number and are "bastard packs"
(pictures above)
Since this is to be my DD - I'm not sure what I want to do with the lift yet. Stock or 2" is where I'm leaning.

Trying to spread the cost out - but looks like the suspension / shocks is going to need to be done all at once.

ixanay_on-the_exjay

That height seems reasonable, which isn't too common around here, usually we're on here trying to figure out how fix the mess we made by being unreasonable . The '00 and '01 are known to be more pickyHard about pinion angle so you're likely saving yourself a lot of time and money keeping it under 3". I haven't messed with my steering box yet but I've seen Bleepinjeeps vid on rebuilding with a rebuild kit if in fact its the box and not just a line... Seems like a fun project.

iamdgw

Here are some pictures.
Doesn't look like the pitman shaft seal - looks like it might just be the lines?
I need to have my wife turn the wheel whilst I look and see if I can tell where the leak is coming from - but she was out this evening.
also looks like a front main seal ?

Here we are in the garage:

This is the pitman arm - where the leaking is evident:

Doesn't appear to be from the pitman arm shaft seal - this would be wet / oily

the hoses looking up

front main seal leaking?

other leaking near oil filter - adapter seal I think?

Lower radiator hose - not leaking

iamdgw

What do you see here?



- or more succinctly - what do I need to fix this?
Replace insulator - Moog - K160039?
Add bump stops - these seem dependent on lift height?

ixanay_on-the_exjay

Hard to tell what's going on. If the isolator is not deteriorated I might keep it. I replaced mine with the part you mentioned and looking at mine now it looks like the spring has already chewed thru it making noise every now and then. I will be confirming this soon when I throw in some RE spacers.

Disclaimer, I haven't done bump stops before... But yours is missing and what you do will be dependent on your specific lift height. I did not deal with this when I originally did my lift and wish I had. My plan atm is to replace the bump stop up top (can only do this when coil is not in) and then use hockey pucks below where you can drill a hole into your coil bucket and get a bolt in. Then you can add or remove the pucks easily through the spring openings to adjust when you have your suspension flexing as you measure. A solid "hockey puck" search will probably get you where you need to be on this forum =]

iamdgw

My specific lift height is yet to be determined - I'll come back to this in a sec.
But I've since successfully replaced a seemingly perfectly good steering stabilizer - Go me.
the $20 harbor freight tool - 3/4 ball joint something tool - did the trick - POP! and it was off.

I got new bushings for the sway bar - and replacement links and bushings.
the bar hold on bushings went on OK
but - I think the sway bar links are too short for the current lift that's on the jeep.
no wonder the ones on there were so squished.

So - I need to - A - get the springs I was going to go with Moog cc782 with 3/4 spacers
or get new / longer temporary sway bar links.

OR both - does anyone know if the stock link length works with the aforementioned springs?

iamdgw

well - to further complicate - I didn't get new sway bar linkS - I got a new sway bar link (singular)
so - just to get myself back on the road - put one of the old ones back on - with the best of the old bushings
and will deal with it later.
Next I think I'm going to see about taking off the rear springs and undoing the bastard pack
to see what kind of sag the stock springs have -
which will determine how soon I need to replace the rear leafs
which will determine what spacers I may need on the front -
which will determine what length links I need

iamdgw

I went ahead with the Moog springs I had mentioned previous - but decided to forego the spacers at this time
Had to get the harbor freight spring compressor - even after undoing the sway bar and shock.

I also put new shocks all the way around - went with the Monroe gas magnums.

Of course, the shock I had previously disconnected while doing the steering stabilizer shock - I apparently cross-threaded the nut putting it back on
so that required the dremel after unscrewing the internal piston from the rod - the top piece of the shock from the bottom piece. That was annoying.

Rear shocks were't so bad - actually. Someone had been in there before so it was a mish-mash of different bolts up top.
I after I finished one side - I then ordered the "nuts on a stick" replacement do-hickey to finish the other side. Beat out the one stock nut used this thing instead.
Always impressed that "there's a tool for that" out there.

Haven't messed with the rear springs yet. Want to see about taking them off / apart as they are still way too stiff.
The front is a LOT better and oddly - it seems to still be fairly level, so I'm concerned about that.
Might still have a set of OME in my future.

Also when putting the rear shocks on - I had to add weight to the back just to get the bottom of the shock to fit over the bolt
So either I need to lower the spring - or get taller shocks.

In the mean time - a while back I took the dash apart so I could have a working lamp behind the engine light
Well - now that is on. Code P0432.
Something to do with the "efficiency for the catalytic converter on engine bank 2 is below efficiency."
the efficiency is below efficiency - that's google /grammar is dead/

My pre-Jan. 2000 jeep seems to have a (really poorly) welded exhaust system all the way from the block to the tailpipe.
As I've no welding skills - it looks like if I want to replace the front pre-cats ( CA emissions - 2 pre cats - one rear cat - 4 O2 sensors 1 before / 1 after each pre cat) I either:
1 replace everything with flanged bits I can work with
2 take it some where and pay $$$

Has anyone (still reading this far) fixed this code by just replacing the O2 sensors?
Which are "bank 2" - is that toward the front or toward the rear.

I'm looking at ~700 of parts to do it all right now:
Pre Cats - Front pipe - Back Cat - Muffler - Tailpipe - 02 sensors (x2) -
Debating at this time if I should upgrade the manifold at this time or not - maybe not
so much crap to sift through to find good info on the forum sometimes.

Anyway - progress is still being made - albeit slowly

Ralph77

Your Jeep is made before 1/20/00? Cause most, if not all (thinking the tailpipe is not), are for after 1/20/00.
Plus you listed the tailpipe twice. You really need this to go along with all those parts.


Plus you should really buy NTK O2 sensors.
But I don't think these are the parts you want.
And if they are don't forget the hanger in back, insulator, 2 gaskets, and clamps.

I had the P0432 in my '00 CA Emissions made after 1/20/00. I ruled out everything as best I could. Replaced the whole exhaust just like you and all was fine from then on. Luckily for me I really needed a new muffler and tailpipe anyway.

You might want to try RockAuto for some if not all of this. The Walker front cat there is $187.

ixanay_on-the_exjay

Bank 2 is the rearward one. Sounds like everything went relatively smoothly good job

iamdgw

Yeah - that's the front pipe I have in my "cart" - I just copied the wrong link - I knew I would do that - but thank you
I think I read that the pre -Jan 00 was a welded system and then after they went to flanges
so as I have a welded system - without welding skills - I have to do the whole thing
(and it could use replacing anyway) - I was getting the "flanged" parts so I could DIY it

NTK - Ok - I'll have to research the numbers for those.

What muffler did you go with when you did your whole exhaust - did you use similar parts?
Did you have horrible mpg before that improved afterward?

Bank 2 is the rear - Maybe I'll start with changing the rearward O2 sensors and get lucky

Ralph77

I used those exact parts. You do have 4 O2 sensors?

Ralph77

NTK and NGK are the same

23151 Upstream;Cylinders 1,2,3;Bank 1 Sensor 1;Calif. Emissions
23110 Downstream;Cylinders 1,2,3;Bank 1 Sensor 2;Calif. Emissions
23506 Upstream;Bank 1 Sensor 1;Cylinders 4,5,6;Bank 2 Sensor 1;Federal Emissions;Calif. Emissions; Upstream;Bank 1 Sensor 1
23099 Downstream;Bank 1 Sensor 2;Cylinders 4,5,6;Bank 2 Sensor 2;Federal Emissions;Calif. Emissions; Downstream;Bank 1 Sensor 2

I copied and pasted all the sensor placement info off the Napa site. I work there so I know how to get around in there.

Don't get confused by the Federal Emissions part. A '00 Federal Emissions XJ, they did make both that year but to the best of my knowledge all '01's are CA Emissions, use 2 of the same O2 sensors out of the 4 I listed above.

Again price all this at RockAuto to see how much this will be.