iamdgw

you mean it's different sensors front to back also - ?!? < sigh > Ok -
yeah mine is a '00 CA -
I'll check RockAuto (and other sources) to see how the prices compare
how bad was the job to do?
Was yours already flanged parts from the factory with your post Jan 00?

Ralph77

Mine was flanged but I am not so sure that it was still factory. See when you buy the Walker front cat they tell you that you need the 53440 pipe which connects to the rear of the front cat and front of the rear cat.
I believe they came from the factory with the front cat and the 53440 pipe as one piece connecting into the front of the rear cat.
But do not quote me on that.

Ralph77

Sorry missed the part about doing the job.
I did not do it. I took everything off except the front cat. Cleaned up and POR 15'ed under there.
Then I drove it, missing all those exhaust pieces, boy was it loud (LOL), to one of the garages that does business with the store to take off the front cat and hang the whole exhaust.
They charged me $75. I thought they deserved more so gave them $25 more then they asked for. LOL.
But I had everything bought and figured out for them. I bought hardware for them too connect the down pipe, 53440, to the both cats. Bought new nuts to connect the front of the muffler, cause it has studs, to the rear cat. Hell I even bought new hardware for where the front cat connects to the exhaust manifolds. The goal was so they could just throw it on without any problems or delays.
I was a little worried about having problems trying to do it in my driveway and at the time did not own any air tools.
Guys have done it. Not like it can't be done.

iamdgw

still a benjamin to have someone else deal with it still sounds like a bargain

Did you see an improvement in mileage after doing it?

Ralph77

No. I don't think so. I get pretty crappy mileage around town. 13 MPG. Which is pretty much what I got before. But you have understand some things. I live 1/2 mile from work. I actually go out of my way in the morning just to get the Jeep up to operating temperature. When I am pulling in the parking the thermostat is just opening up and I can see the temperature dropping. When I do drive around town it is short distances with a few stops so... Now on the highway I do as much as 22 MPG. But I never took the Jeep on any longer trips before all that work was done so I have nothing to compare it too.
One other thing I wanted to ask and tell you.
Do you have a sensor behind the rear cat? I am guessing you don't.
Even though it is called a cat I have seen it referred to as a resonator. But just in 2 places maybe online in threads and whatnot. Every auto parts store calls it a cat as do all the manufacturers.
I bring all this up cause since there is not an O2 sensor behind it what does it do.
I was thinking I could have gotten away with my old one. But I did not like the way it mated up to the new Walker parts. If I remember correctly it was not bad but I just said screw it and bought the rear cat too.

iamdgw

no - there is no sensor between the rear cat / muffler - which is where I first looked after having the code read for me at the parts store
and I was like - what is going on here - so I had to go have the code read again - because like an idiot - I didn't write it down
researched the CA vs Fed vs different years - and I guess around this time the were changing stuff all over the place.
the parts doc does mention a resonator - but it clearly has a different shape.

Like you, being that there is no rear o2 sensor - what does the rear cat do - but I have read it helps with final whatever to get it to pass emission testing.
I'm up in Michigan - so I don't have to worry about that - but as the rules say - if it was on there - gotta put it back - so I was just going to replace it and not think too much more about it.
doesn't look like the resonator is available many (if any) places anyway - 52019500AD - and I don't think the rear cat is hurting any performance.

Nuts on the mileage. I'm about 10 miles from work myself - or less - but my last take of gas was like 13 mpg
I've since cleaned the (was on there when I bought it) K&N air filter - so we'll see if that helps - but I'm hoping for a little boost in efficiency with this.

Thank you for all the input.

Ralph77

My XJ is just a DD. I am older and don't have a life. LOL. Which means I really don't go anywhere. I don't really care what I get for gas mileage. I did do everything I could to help improve it though. I did what I could and it is what it is. I am happy that highway mileage is up there. Just for when I have to drive the longer distances to chase down something I found on Craigslist though.

iamdgw

I've priced all the exhaust parts and cats and o2 sensors - via rock auto and amazon - but I think with Prime - amazon might win at least on the pipes.
In the mean time - since it doesn't appear to be adversely affecting how it's running for the moment - I've put this project on hold and am moving forward with the rear springs.

I have the OME medium duty with Moog bushings to install sometime this week / weekend.
I just got the "parts" to help install the bushings from the hardware store - all thread / nuts / washers etc to squeeze them in

Also removed one leaf from each pack so hopefully stay fairly level with what's on the vehicle now (looking for softer - not higher / shorter)
I took out the 3rd leaf )))))| from each pack - did I do that right? the first having the bushing mount, the second having more square cut ends then the third.

Chick-N-Picker

Everybody seems to really suggest OME leafs springs for a 2" lift. If I had the funds I'd order a set today.

Looking forward to the rest of your build.

Slackdaddy

Not sure what OME leafs they are using for a 2" lift,, last I heard the "leeser" spring with a leaf removed was giving 3-4" of lift,, read the reviews 1st before ordering.

iamdgw

Got the bushings in so far - the all thread with the washers and pipe floor flange - as detailed elsewhere on the site - works wonders
esp. when you add a little oil and have a fresh battery in your cordless impact. It went zip - 90% in.. still need to beat them in the rest of the way yet but still -

I'll have the house to myself this weekend - hope to get the springs on as well as the dreaded oil filter adapter gasket swap.

iamdgw

I always underestimate how much can go wrong while working on this vehicle.

so I started on the first spring - removed the U-bolts no problem - thanks to cordless impact wrench.
Removed rear bushing bolt - opted not to remove / replace the shackles at this time
On to the front bolt - OMG

What happened was that bolt had seized up inside the sleeve of the existing bushing.
Of course I didn't realize this at first - but should have - it's obvious now looking back
but I thought maybe the nut had come loose and was spinning oddly in the pocket
so I cut an access hole (dremel- again) nope that was a waste - nut still attached.

I thought I had turned it enough for it to be loose - it was sticking out like 1/2" or so
but I could NOT pull the bolt out (duh - it's stuck to the sleeve and you're not pulling the sleeve out of the rubber)

SO I cut the bolt just inside the nut - thinking it's still screwed on somehow
nope - still can't pull the bolt out (duh - it's stuck to the sleeve and you're not pulling the sleeve out of the rubber)

SO I cut the bolt on the other side of the bushing - after 5 new blades and almost killing my sawzall batteries (they had to cool before I could recharge them)
I was FINALLY able to remove the spring - this is day 3 by this point.

I was able to drill through the remaining bit of bolt stuck through the nut where I had cut it
and then a screw extractor removed that piece much easier than I thought it would be.

Another probably 2 hours of wrestling with the gator - I was able to get the new spring on and the wheel back on.

Gonna ride uneven for a couple days until I can get in there and do the other side.

ixanay_on-the_exjay

Welcome to the club!

iamdgw

Finished the other spring this past weekend. Took Friday off and got the wife to help.
Applied lessons learned - and the job went much easier.

Hardest part was again front bushing bolt - but 24" breaker bar being turned by 2-ton jack did the trick.

Rides much nicer now.

NEXT is oil filter adapter gaskets - another fun job I understand

going to need new tires eventually - looking at changing to the TJ Rubicon rims - but $$
lots of JK rims around but was hoping to avoid lug adapters.

iamdgw

Started on the oil filter adapter this weekend. I had previously purchased the torq socket bit from HF.
pro tip - if you already have the ball joint separator tool - that presses the torq bit out of the socket fairly easily, just stick a bolt or something in there to press it out.
(I had tried the vice and hammer, but it just wasn't budging) then a 12 mm

Just stick the bit in, put a wrench on it - breaker bar and go to town, right? at least that's what I thought I saw in the videos I watched.
Unfortunately, No. Nothing holds the bit in the wrench, nothing holds the bit in the adapter, and after you've crawled under the jeep to pick up all the pieces again...
I was rather discouraged that I would ever get this thing out.

The next day

I went back and read some more forum posts - and one guy was having trouble, as I initially did, getting the bit out of the socket.
Figured since I made it past that hurdle, I could also get this stupid thing out.

I had a set of "L" shaped torqs tools - kinda like allen wrenches but torqs.. but no - some one still needed to hold it in place while someone else turned it
and the bit didn't engage into the screw unless the handle was pointing in difficult to access directions - back to the ratcheting wrench.

but this time, got the wife to help (again). Me under the jeep holding the bit in the adapter and holding the wrench on the bit
and her with the improved leverage (jack handle fits over ratcheting wrench nicely) she was able to POP! it loose.

I felt giddy. It's out and I stopped there for the night
progress is being made.