The Honeybadger - ZRV Build Thread
glad to see the injectors helped. i'm getting a set of them this week as well, i'm hoping it solves my misfire issue. i've got spark and cyl 1 injector is getting a signal, but still has a dead miss on cyl 1. cant wait to see where the build goes next.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 2
From: PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
17.3 mpg this week! Up from steady mid 15s. Now I want to find my CAI tube and throw it on with a new filter... (only for road use. When I go wheeling I'll throw the stock box back on for the day)
Member
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico (US)
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L straight six
love it, this is almost exactly what I want to do. how hard was the dash cluster removal cause im thinking about doing the blue leds. and what leds did you use?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 2
From: PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The cluster removal was easy. The only issue was the headlight ****. The end of the **** is a fraction of an inch larger than the hole in the dash bezel, so you have to fight it a bit to get it on and off. As for the bulbs, I used T5 74 Bright Blue 3-LED. I believe I got them on eBay. One of them just went out this week so I have to take it apart again and see what happened. They should last forever, so I don't know if it wiggled loose or is faulty. Good thing I bought enough bulbs for 3 trucks.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 2
From: Bentonville, AR
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
^^ Hey no offense but you guys have two different types of clusters. 84-96 XJs use 194 bulbs. 97-01 XJs use something different than 194s. I have done the LED swap and will try to find my instructions on how to do it. Its definitely easier on a 97+ XJ.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 2
From: Bentonville, AR
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Found my instructions in the XJ Dash Lights Mod thread : https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/xj-...26507/index13/
On a pre 97 it will not just pull out like the 97+. Take off the plastic bezel, 4 "hidden" screws. Then there is the 6 cluster screws. On the pre 97s there is a speedometer cable that needs to be removed from the back of the cluster. Then unclip the power cable, I don't know the actual name of it The big difference between the years is the speedometer cable. Then twist off a bulb socket and replace the bulb.
On a pre 97 it will not just pull out like the 97+. Take off the plastic bezel, 4 "hidden" screws. Then there is the 6 cluster screws. On the pre 97s there is a speedometer cable that needs to be removed from the back of the cluster. Then unclip the power cable, I don't know the actual name of it The big difference between the years is the speedometer cable. Then twist off a bulb socket and replace the bulb.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 2
From: PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
None taken, good catch.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 2
From: Bentonville, AR
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Those are my instructions on pre 97 XJs. The hardest part is unplugging the speedometer cable. I always reach from underneath the dash and get at it. I have no pictures of the process. Screws are easy to get to. The power cables are pretty easy too. Every once in awhile the speedometer cable pops off easy but that is rare.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 2
From: PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's been a busy few weeks for the HB. Since I'm now without a job I have lots of time to tinker. I replaced the whole cooling system: CSF 3 core radiator, hoses, thermostat and housing, water pump and fan clutch. While I was removing the radiator I found my A/C leak in the condenser, so i replaced that as well. Of course she had to fight me every step of the way (broken water pump stud in the block and the infamous lower trans cooler line that won't disconnect) but all is well now. The temp gauge is still a little bit higher than I would like, but it's not as high as it was before all of the work.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 2
From: PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've also been following the JCR roof rack development with much anticipation. As soon as they had it on their website I ordered the rack and tire carrier. The rattle can paint job was a PITA and took longer than I planned but in the end it came out ok. Installation was easy, and after some adjustments with the mounting positions it went on just fine. I was a bit worried being in the first batch of customers but JCR knows their stuff!
Eventually I'll get the sides, lower profile front (when they make one) and RotoPax mounting system.
Eventually I'll get the sides, lower profile front (when they make one) and RotoPax mounting system.
Nice build man. I've been looking at that rack too. I like how it hugs the top of the roof. Any issues with the gutter mounts on install? I was thinking about plasti-dipping the ends to avoid gouging up the paint. Do you know if a different front piece other than the gigantic pre-runner is in the works or are we both just wishful thinking?
Last night I installed blue LEDs in the speedo cluster. I couldn't be happier. The only PITA was getting the bezel off without taking the headlight **** off. Luckily I was able to force it through w/out having to take it off or breaking anything. Shout out to Cuzco25 for pointing me in the right direction for the proper bulbs.
Also, I'm getting a new battery. I killed mine in 30 minutes during the install just by playing music.
Also, I'm getting a new battery. I killed mine in 30 minutes during the install just by playing music.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 69
Likes: 2
From: PA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nice build man. I've been looking at that rack too. I like how it hugs the top of the roof. Any issues with the gutter mounts on install? I was thinking about plasti-dipping the ends to avoid gouging up the paint. Do you know if a different front piece other than the gigantic pre-runner is in the works or are we both just wishful thinking?
Plasti-dip would probably be a good idea, I scratched the living hell out of my roof during the install. I think I saw somewhere they were planning on making an LED light bar for the front that would be much shorter than the pre-runner, but who knows what their time table is on that.



