put the arms where they fit and give the best tire clearance when turning to full steering lock. some people put a slight bend in them for extra tire clearance.

You do not need a high dollar bender to build the arms, Realistically, you do not need a bender at all unless you want to put that slight bend in for tire clearance. If you do want to bend them and don't want to purchase a tubing bender, a Harbor Freight PIPE bender, AKA a "kinker" as they are more commonly known as in the offroad world, would do you just fine. As small of a bend as it would be, there would be little chance for it to kink the tube. OR, you could use square tubing and just cut a pie cut out of it for the bend, just reinforce it on all three cut sides.

 

Oh dear lord.

At 6"+ you are in long arm and new steering territory. New control arms (uppers and lowers) will push the axle back forward and center it in the wheel well, it will not take away the bone jarring ride or lack of articulation in any of the suspension components. I would be surprised if there was any down travel at all.

You NEED and adjustable track bar. The axle is not centered and the angle is not parallel to the drag link which will cause bump steer and death wobble.

Brake lines?

At 6+ of lift you are pushing the limitations of your stock steering set up. You need to look at over the knuckle steering systems and designs since you have a desire to build all this yourself...

Using only 6" lift coils to do a cheap *** lift on your Jeep is painful to see. Didn't see anything about shocks or maybe I skipped over that?

Your driveshaft is too short for that height and pushing the axle even more forward into correct alignment won't help that situation. 6"+ of lift gets expensive real quick. Sell those coils and drop down to 3 or 4.5". There is absolutely no direct need for that much lift to clear 33's.

And if you are going to make your own control arms (why not go ahead and make long arms?), make them adjustable with quality parts.

Stop using rustys and listening to him or his company.

 

Part of what I was saying in my last post. 6"+ is not necessary, especially in Florida. That much lift has a terrible snowball effect of parts, $, and headaches. And while it would be fine for a trail only rig, it is not going to be a good DD. Doing your own longarms will still be good though.

I dont mean to be a downer, but XJ's can be very capable rigs with not a ton of lift.

 

Nope... wasn't insulted, but thanks. I posted up the 5 pic to, hopefully, give me some credibility. Although I am new to XJs, I am not new to Jeeps.

Made me smile! My experience with the kinker is NOT GOOD! Even with slight bends. The only thing that I was able to use it on was my grab handles on the 5 rollcage. I watched several YT videos about "how to" use a pipe bender to bend tubing, including packing with sand. Didn't work! Kink city.

Since bends aren't required it makes it easier to build them. How do I determine the factory position of the axle? I feel like if I knew that I could measure the distances for arms and a trackbar.

I have been looking at different knuckles, high-steer, cross-over steering, etc. I understand the need for that. Thanks for clarifying. I am clear on the DS. I can lengthen that. I am also clear on the brake lines... I believe I can find some JY lines that will be longer. I have been asking about CA lengths, measuring points, geometry so I can investigate HOW to make the arms I need. We do this because we ENJOY it. Building it and then looking at what we made! It's a father/son thing. Maybe we don't NEED all these mods, but that's not up to you. I hope you're going to be an asset, but critics are necessary too!

Not sure why you're calling this a cheap *** build?? I don't see it.

Understood. You're not a downer. Call me hard-headed!

 

I said cheap *** lift because you threw on a set of 6" coils and expected to run them without changing anything else and be good to go.

Look at install PDF's on manufacturing website for the lengths you'll think you will need base off how you are building your parts.

Nothing against building things, I built/ worked on my front bumper, skid plates, long arms, axles, rear bumper, tire carrier, and my unibody.

So when are you starting the long arms?

 

I appreciate your help and comments. I need the feedback... that's why I came to CF, because I had no feedback on JF. But if you read from the start I think you will see that I am definitely NOT expecting to run with minimal inputs. I haven't been on CF for anyone to really know me yet, but I hope to build a great rig with lots of help from this community. Now... I AM trying to get it on the road for the purpose of it taking me to work everyday while I build my 7. The reason for that is that my 7 needs driveline work (tranny/engine), and the XJ is mechanically sound. So, If I gave the impression I would be stopping at that point, please forgive. This build will entail many changes over the next two years.

My problem with the LAs is that I don't know where to start, yet! I know I can cut and weld tubing, but obviously the arms need to be the correct length. I took measurements off the donor XJ to find how far forward the axle sits. It's stock, and the measurements should be factory. My plan is to build arms long enough to bring Fallon's axle to that same point. I have no idea if this is sound reasoning??

I am reading several of the builds just to learn, but I have to read a lot in order for concepts to become clear. Getting answers for posts saves me time, and I enjoy the cameraderie. I like N20's 4-link, and I got excited about that. It's on my "Wish List"! Thank you, 94. Not meaning to come off too strong.

Long arms are a priority, and as soon as I am clear on measurements I will start.

This is overkill and long, but if anyone is interested you can view my 1979 CJ5 build on JF. It was my first-ever build, and I learned a great deal. This XJ is just like that CJ. Lots to learn! http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/

 

My Clayton long arms from the crossmember under the tranny to the axle, lowers are at 36.5" and it's stretched maybe .5" or so.

I have radius arms that attach off the lowers that set up castor and pinion angle, I don't have a clue what they're set at.

 

Thanks, 94... would you consider posting up some pics of your setup?

 

Here is what I have on my phone. Let me know exactly what you want to see.

 

Sweeeeet Dude! Thank you, 94. I saw one or two of those pics on your thread.

If I built a third link to mount to the top of the axle tube, then I wouldn't need radius arms???? Which do you like better?

 

A true three or four link will out perform a radius arm set up off-road. My radius arms drive fantastic on the road and do great off-road but I have seen where a 3 link would be better. Less binding and they don't unload the way radius arms do.

You could build another link attaching to the drivers side upper control arm mount and run it back to the new crossmember above the lower mount.

 

94, looking at your flex I'm thinking radius arms is all we will need. I will explore it more. If you have time would you show me a good picture of your trackbar?

I read about separation, but I don't understand what it means. Is that the distance between the connection points on the axle?

Thanks

 

These might help if you decide to build your own long arms.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f37/l...ild-tj-532320/

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=8616

http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=3080

 

Holy Moley! Great links. Thanks, Pittman. I found a few myself, but I didn't find these. I DID learn about separation and measuring, though.

Just waiting on enough money to buy some materials...

 

JIMINY CHRISTMAS! 2"X.250 round tubing is better than $9 a foot! Dang near $200 for a 20' stick. My dealer does not normally stock 2" thick wall, and I would have to special order it. Probably going to go with square. Dealer normally carries it, but he is out of stock at the moment. Why can't I use pipe instead of round tubing? Structural issues?