Use some angle iron to go the the side of the rail and bolt them there too.
If it was me I'd probably sandwich the rail with two plates. Might even throw some bolts in the bottom stock location too

 

This is all part of the plan. I just haven't gotten that far. I'm OLD! Therefore I am slow!!

 

I redid the whole dang thing! Well... most of it. I changed the brackets around completely. I think some of you guys will like this better. I know I do! The joints move up and forward a bit. The bracket area is cleaned up a TON, and it just looks more efficient. I ran out of stuff, and I had to quit for the evening. I was hoping to mock this up this evening. Guess it will have to wait until later in the week. Here's where I am...


Knocked apart the original crossmember and LA brackets.



Cut some more 4"X4" squares to replace the ones I boogered...



Fabbed up some Handy-Dandy brackets (still have to be trimmed).



Drilled some bolt holes. Plates are tacked together so holes are identical.



This is where I am going with it...



I'm not sure how much higher the joints will be, but I'm thinking in the 1 1/2" range. They also moved forward since they are now on the front of the xmember, rather than incorporated INTO the xmember.



What do ya'll think?

 

Welding things together...

 

I know this is redundant, but I'm excited! I have most of the welding completed. I will let my son finish it up for the structural component since he is certified. I am looking forward to getting this mounted up.

 

Coming along nicely. Are you finished with the arms?

 

I had the arms cut and tacked together, but moving the brackets up and forward a bit changes the length. So now I have to shorten them. I also still have to get the tranny mount bought and installed.

 

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR! How do I get the body bolt out of the upper control arm??? It has a round head through this frame hole, and when I pull on the nut side (under the Jeep) it turns the whole bolt. Cut it off???

 

Figured it out!

Crossmember is installed. Lower arms are installed. I still have the pass side lower CA bracket to cut off the frame. I'll be working on radius arms tomorrow. Have to wire-wheel and paint everything.

Ordered SYE from this company...
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/ Probably get a driveshaft from Tatton's.

Then longer brake lines, bleed brakes, rear axle shims, and drive it!

 

 

Today I managed to get the radius arms mocked up. Overall length is 18", but they are adjustable. My first design was much more complicated, as seems to be my way, and then it hit me like a ton-o-bricks! KISS. So I did. And it appears to work! So here are some pics of the latest foray. PLEASE, PLEASE, please say something if you see something dreadfully wrong! I am researching like crazy, but this is the first time for this. It would be easy for me to make a grave error and never know I made it.

-THANK YOU- :wave:

Pics...

 

I have no expertise on this at all. That being said, if I was in your shoes, I would try to find some sort of ramp to get some flex going. Then you could see if anything binds or needs adjusting. Front axle position definitely looks better!

 

My advise is to connect those brake lines!
But honestly just flex it and see if anything binds, make sure it tracks straight and I'd call it good lol

 

What flexing I could do (with the floor jack) indicates that it will flex to the point where the coil spring is unseated without binding. Which is pretty cool. But I have not done anything with a ramp. I don't really think it's ready for that yet, as there are lots of tack welds, and I haven't finished the structural part of the crossmember. Afraid something will breakl!!

Brake lines are bolted up (now), but I need longer lines. They are not serviceable yet, but then we are not driving it yet. Just in and out of the shop!!

 

The floor jack should do the job. As long as your pivot points/joints aren't binding, you should be good to go ahead and weld it up.